James

With ipe it has to weather about a year to get any longevity with a stain.

Yo! Adrian ,which one is for the contest? Ipe finally made it to Texas? Looks good

Jolly good mate ! Brilliant ! Those blokes must feel peachy.

I would say u screwed up. At 4 months with pt u can bleach, then rinse with out furring.so the cleaning solution was to strong / or left on to long /or u used to much pressure cleaning and the grey counldn't be washed off. Buff it off.

No contractor problem.

Looks like some type of dry rot or bug problem.

Looks like mahogany . I've done a few doors.

Pecan use to be medium brown. Better off with oak for a lighter color ( read seal ).

Bleach works better on mold than Noah . On decks that need to be stripped and have a serious mold cover. I will clean the mold first with a bleach solution then apply Noah to remove the finish. If you apply a Noah solution first the mold prevents it from reaching the finish.

With severe green mold its easier to remove it with pressure first. If you have hot water makes this even easier . If there is a blanket of green mold over the floor Ive put down a roof grade bleach solution and it's still not a 100 %. Mold is harder than stripping on occasion . - - - Updated - - - I pad issues.

Used it quite a bit this year. Excellent for removing moss and mold build up on stone and stairs. Great for pushing a build of debris. Edging , cleaning out between stones. The pulsation type flow is good for certain types of rinsing

I like butyl based products for gutters. Simple green works in a pinch or 409 industrial strength cleaner.

What I have done is put down one lite coat of ready seal during rainy periods .This allows no more moisture to get in and the moisture in the wood to escape. Then go back when you can to finish. I have done some other crazy things that go against all wood logic that have worked.

That looks just too good!

The new PT decks are very problematic with regards to sap. I have a deck that about 15 boards have been replaced and then some of those sapped. Very pricy deck and under a warranty from the builder. Just had another one get sapped pretty bad. The new wood blows. I have another one coming his week.

Within the first year of new PT being exposed to the weather the wood doesn't degrade enough to be removed . I mean the little bit of grey you see with chem's or pressure. You either used bleach to remove the mold and rinse with no pressure or if you did what you did . Buff or sand to remove now.

I have a client who I restored there house two years ago . They did a lot of research and had many different solutions to remedy there house and picked me to strip and restore the cedar siding . Some contractors said it could not be done but it came out great and they are extremely happy. During the restoration the deck was not part of the house restore because they were going to replace it . They were under the impression it could not be saved. It was it great shape but had 3 coats of powder blue paint and I said I could save it. They wanted to do it the next year and make some minor changes. They called me to check on the changes a builder had done and they where brutal. The wood was terrible and the work was shoddy . Rain prevented from doing the restore last year. I get a call a few weeks ago that they replaced there deck and there almost ready to have it finished and come take a look. They had a Doug fir tung n groove 15 by 32 floor all exposed to elements and a 5 by 12 off the master bed room the same all kiln dried. The rail system is a beautiful design of doug fir 2 by 4 green and sappy with a pt top rail. The floor butts up to the cedar siding. What a maintenance nightmare ! How do you tell someone this is a disaster . They sit with a builder / designer and come up with a flat deck with no drainage in New England. With a wood used for a porch with cover. So the water has to travel fifteen feet at a minimal pitch. I already saw standing water. I tried to approach the issues of maintenance but it started to come out that this is a mistake and stopped. I just said this has to be done yearly and see how it goes. How wood you approach this relationship? The deck it built.

It's just another thing your forced to do to remain relevant I guess ?

Depends which problem gets fixed. The more evasive the surgery the longer the recovery. Torn ligament repairs few months, torn cartilage fix couple weeks.

No photo but it's Doug fir tung n groove for a porch no roof over head about 15 by 32. It's like looking at a interior great room floor. Look at your hardwood floor and think of it outside at around 500 sqftage . Butted up against 32 ft of cedar on one side and 15 on the other.

This will be filed under top ten blunders. I'm going to sink some copper juice into it and go from there. Let them observe weather issues over the next two years and then have a deck with poka dots ( drill holes ).

Doug fir is a difficult wood to seal. How old is and is it tung and groove ? Just get some of the same product rub it in to blend and wipe off. Otherwise , strip it the off and then use AC .

Good one!

Nice work! Fences over concrete equals pain in the ashes".....

Just trying out my pressure cleaning Art skills on wood ! This formula has been in the works for two years and this was done (sealed ) on the hottest day's of the year. 3000 sqft of floor. No flashing No lapping and it poured 12 hours after finishing...............