allesnick

I was getting prices to do my first post card mailing, and the first quote I received is about $850 per thousand, (total cost, shipping inc.)These are larger than standard and are color. Does this sound about right. Doing the math that's 85 cents per card. In the past I advertised in the newspaper and flyered neighborhoods, I would like to try this and compare what's the best bang for my buck on advertising.

First time I mixed f18 with house wash mix and was pleasantly suprised with how great the gutters turned out. I've been using F18 for gutter cleaning for about 3 years, but I always applied by brush and then rinsed. I'll be turning 55 this year and any labor I can cut out is a great help. These gutters had the tiger stripes and filthy with black marks and I didn't expect them to come clean but it was late in the day and I was tired so I gave it a try and it worked beautifully. The windows still rinsed well with no streaks and I made sure the plants were watered down. I have a gutter job tommorow and I will take picks, I hope I have the same success.

sorry, it was gutter grenade, get my numbers mixed up sometimes.

I cold called before, many times and for every irate person you come across, I found you meet 10 really nice people, their all not going to use your service but don't let a couple individuals stop you from trying to earn a living. It beats sitting at home waiting for the phone to ring. The fact that a lot of people don't like cold calling gives you an advantage by just showing up and letting people know what a great guy you are and what great service you provide.

I have a 40 ft+ high beach house ocean front with 6 ft of room down the one side, property is separated by very tall tree line. Because of where house is situated a lift is not an option, working from neighbors is not an option. Large Hardi -plank house also with gutters at the top level. Any suggestions on cleaning this. I came highly recommended to this client form a client that had a similar house but with plenty of room to work on all sides.

Finished job yesterday, used scaffolding on the one side, everything turned out great, customer was very happy and thankful. On the down side, I felt scafffolding was a pain. First time I ever used it and I had to rent it,(customer paid), it was time consuming and heavy to put up, pick up and return. The main thing was it was the only way I felt comfortable the job would turn out good (that I know), and it did it's job. Thanks for the other ideas, I'll keep them in mind on future jobs.

I do downstream and I have shooter tips and extension polls, but I don't have any angle to work with. It's pretty much a straight shot up, I get a stiff neck just thinking about it. I'm leaning toward getting 20 ft high scaffolding and using a extension poll and have a ground guy pull the soap and rinse with soap tip. I know the gutters won't come clean rinsing with a soap tip, so I may use a lighter shorter extension with a shooter tip to rinse the gutters. I'm open to other suggestions. this is a high dollar home and I want to do a great job.

Customer has a three year old metal roof 2 stories high and wants it cleaned. What chemical would work best. Bleach is not an option. Stains are dirt and pollen.

Finished the metal roof job yesterday with lift. The customer was very clear on no chlorine and they paid for the lift. They believed that the chlorine would take off the glossy coating that makes it shine. After many hours we completed the job and it looked good. I believe unless I'm hard up for work, I will pass on these in the future.

Customer agreed to pay for lift, customer also insist no bleach, never used plexmaster before, who sells it? Thanks for the ideas, probably compelte job as soon as I can schedule lift rental. I have simple cherry and f-13, I don't have any emulsifier plus but I heard that it's good stuff. Thanks for the ideas.

Customer has bad rust stains on his home. I read previous commments about this and have used oxallic acid before on my own home and it took some of the red pigmentation out of the brick and left it looking cloudy. It works great on concrete and wood and just about anything else, but I was wondering if there is anything else out there that is safe to use on red brick. The customer's house has these stains really bad and I would like to help him out.

Thanks for the info, I picked up a sample of sure kleen (thanks David) and a gallon of rust aid(thanks SWFish), I'll give both a try and post results, hopefully I will have pics.

I want to win the computer!!

Thanks, I'll contact these referrals tomorrow(Thursday)

If you know a good supplier, please post or e-mail me at allesnick@yahoo.com or call at 843-655-3780

The main reason I go is to learn. Always looking for better ways to do things. Also like meeting fellow contractors and sharing ideas.

I currently have an open trailer mounted set up 4.5 gpm, hot water,325 tank, but I am considering a flat bed set up similar to what a lot of the roof guys use. I guess there are pluses and minuses to both, just don't like pulling a trailer.

I would try Zep A One is specially designed to clean hard surfaces and those resulting from fire and smoke damage of carbon and soot deposits. It cleans concrete and masonary, brick, tile. This description came right out of their catalog. Years ago I used to sell Zep products and they are top of the line although the can be pricey. google Zep for a local rep, he may give you a sample.

pressuretek f13 works good for me

Just double checked my Vin number and my Ford Van was manufactured in the USA. I will double check on all future purchases to make sure it's made IN the USA. THE JOB I SAVE MAY BE MY OWN.

I have insurance thru my wife's work and I take advantage of it. I'm over 50 and I'm not ready to check out yet, want to see grandkids some day. Many of terminal illnesses can be corrected if caught in time. The hard work, long hour, exposure to chemicals should put us in a high risked category. Do your family a favor and get checked out regularly or pile up on the life insurance.

I drive a Ford van now, would prefer a Ford pick-up. I am a buy American kind of guy, whenever possible. Would'nt be oppose to a Chevy or a Dodge.

Looking into tile and grout cleaning for inside work when bad weather hits, anybody else look into this.

I purchased some Oxalic acid from my local pool company and it works great on rust stains and fencing, however after reading the MSDS sheet on it , it looks like some pretty dangerous stuff to handle. Does this stuff come in different strenghts. I used to run an environmental company and part of my job was training employees on reading MSDS sheets and safe handling procedures for chemicals and although most MSDS sheets can be somewhat alarming, the one on Oxalic seem to be really over the top. Right now it's only me and my 2 sons running the business but I look to hire a couple people in the spring. For the time being I switched to Rid Rust which I get at my local John Deere distributor which is probably a watered down version. It cost about $6 a gallon seems to work as well on rust, never tried on fencing and it doesn't appear to be as hazardous to handle. It has some type of acid in it, not sure if it's oxalic. Buying Oxalic straight is cheaper and very effective, I'm not sure it's worth the risk. What are some other peopls thougts on this product and do you take extra precautions when handling. Thanks for any input.

I read several weeks ago about someone having a nightmare experience with house washing hardi plank siding. I have a beach house, 2 stories on stilts line up to do. Any advice on chemicals (Chlorine amount). I have a 5 gallon per minute 3500 psi hot water skid. I am too slow too turn down any work, but I can't afford to paint a two story beach house either.