Mike Williamson

I've been told it is tire dressing. I've run into it every once in a while, and the stuff doesn't come up. I'm sure there ARE things that will get it up, but are likely cost-prohibitive. The stuff is waterproof too. Much more noticeable when wet.

Thanks, Ron! This is one post that ought to find it's way to the library.

Yep, agreed. Lucky for me I was hospitalized all last week with pneumonia, and have all this week at home learning to breathe again. :) Taxes are scheduled for Wednesday!

I haven't posted my numbers yet because I don't know yet...doing taxes this week, so I'll post mine by the weekend.

In looking at the specs for my pump, I have a couple questions. The pump is made by Interpump, from Italy, and the model number is WS202. The specs on the pump are metric, and show it to be 21 litres per minute, and 200 bar. The conversions I have are litres/3.79=gallons, which gives me 5.5 gallons per minute, and bar*14.5=psi, which gives me 2900psi. Are these conversions correct? If so, I'm short 100psi from what the machine was advertised as (I bought it used). The 2nd issue I have is the gpm...The machine was advertised at 5.5 gpm, and my numbers back that up. However, I'm only pulling just a hair under 5 gallons. I've checked my connections between the tank and the pump, and I have no leaks. I haven't hooked the supply hose up directly to the pump yet, that's my next step. My question is, what are the possible causes of a loss of gpm, other than the engine/pump running slower than they should. Last question, how can I check that the engine/pump are turning at the proper speed? Thanks!

I have, more than once! It's fun trying to find that silver tip in the bushes.

You probably just need a better downstreamer. I use a SS model from espec and it works great.

I know this has been debated before, but I disagree. Your pump puts out a certain amount of water, say 5gpm. That water has to go somewhere, whether it is flowing out of the trigger gun or going back to the tank via bypass. If you're using a #10 nozzle to get 1000 psi, then all the water is flowing out of the trigger gun. If you then back the unloader down to where you're only getting 500psi from the trigger gun with a #10 tip, then you only have approx. 3.5gpm coming out of the trigger gun. The other 1.5gpm has to be going somewhere, and it can't be out of the trigger gun, our you'd still have 1000psi. It HAS to be bypassing.

What type wiring connector does your trailer have? I have a 7-pin, so it is already wired for aux. power. I simply ran that line back under the trailer to where I have my shurflo battery mounted, and wired it up through the floor of the trailer and connected it directly to the battery. That way, while I'm driving, the battery is getting charged. I wouldn't do it this way if I were drawing a LOT of power, but my shurflo draws 7 amps, and rarely runs more than an hour at a time. If you're not already setup with a 7pin, it wouldn't be that hard to rewire it.

Most of us just regulate the pressure with various tips, not messing with the unloader. I know what tips give me what pressure. I've been doing it "by feel" for a good while now and haven't been led into any trouble!!

They also have Soarin' at Epcot in Disney World. It is the same one as they have at the California park. We've been on it many times, and it never gets old. I love the way they make the smells match what you're seeing. If I had my choice between Hawaii and DW, I'd take DW, especially if it were for a couple weeks. There's a lot more here to see, and if you LOVE theme parks, there's more than just DW. Then there's all the beaches within an hour's drive, and lots more!

Russ: What are the nozzles that you flip over to go from one nozzle to the other? I have one, just can't recall what it's called. You can put one size in one hole, another size (like a soap tip) in the other. Flip it over one way to soap, the other for higher pressure. Works with a ball bearing inside.

Excellent!!! And you were worried about making it??? You have NOTHING to worry about! I think that for some of us, the reason we lean towards not meeting the customer is that we're weak in the sales area, or in the one-on-one communication thing. I prefer to estimate a job when no one is home...My introverted shy self can just write up the proposal and stick it on the door and that's it! easy! If they call, great! But I know you're correct, from my own experiences. The customers that I most often get referrals and repeat business from are the ones with whom I have built a relationship. The ones that I was able to walk around and just chat with, either before or after the job. I realize that some jobs are just going to be almost impossible to meet with the homeowner, but I think I will be working harder to do so. Thanks for the nudge in the right direction!

Sherwin Williams even! :)

There ya go!!! Hey, what you were feeling is what many of us feel at the beginning of the busy season, when things are still slow. A month ago I was scrambling for work...One 600 letter mailer coupled with the weather warming a bit and bam, I've been busy the past three weeks, and I'm booked for the next two, with a pile of estimates to do Monday. Just don't give up! There's plenty of work out there, and lots of ways to get it.

Hey, Rod...check this out. http://www.joeybed.com/ In answer to the question, I want a downstreamer with the draw of an Xjet.

Not so much if he's not dealing with oil or gum. I never run hot water on residential concrete, unless I run into a spot where a car leaked, which is rare. The added cost in the machine, in fuel, maintenance, and shorter life span for hoses and connecters would outweigh any time saved (in my experience, anyway). A quick pre-treatment with chlorine prior to cleaning takes care of any tannin stains or mold issues.

That's the reason I keep an extra 200' of hose on each trailer. Nothing like getting stuck 1/2 way through a job and popping a hose.

I agree completely! I order what I order from them simply because I want to save some money on simple parts. I wouldn't order anything that required any type of after the sale customer service. Of course, from what I saw of their 2006 catalog, the days of cheap parts may be gone except during their special sales.

I think the reason they are so reluctant to take returns is the same reason many of us buy from them...they are cheap...for many parts, they are significantly cheaper than anyone else I've found. I'm sure their profit margin is pretty low, so every return hurts.

Me too. I'd also like to give kudos to Sunbrite...they messed up on the shipping and caused me a bit of inconvenience...not big deal, but they took the initiative to call ME when they realized their mistake and gave me a credit for the shipping for my trouble.

Ken, you're giving them more benefit of the doubt than they deserve. Whether they thought it might all work out ok for you, they lied to you, and tried to screw you. How would you feel if you took a chevy truck with a 350 in it to the shop to have the motor replaced, and the shop billed you for a new 350 engine but installed a 6 cylindar instead, figuring you'd be just fine with that instead? Same deal here...they sold you one thing, but gave you something less.

Shouldn't be. Remember, just because it is at the nose of the trailer, you still have at least a couple feet between the ball and the machine. I have mine set about 2' back from the nose, and there is no problem with the weight. My exhaust is pointed directly at the side of my tank, about a foot away, it gets warm, and a little dingy, but nowhere near hot enough to damage the plastic. Passenger side of the trailer, wherever is convenient based on where the equipment is. This is how I have mine, and it is set a bit closer to the passenger side (not centered). It makes it easier to reach the controls, and left me room on the other side of the machine for a 65 gallon chem tank.

The hook idea is great! I'll try that. I don't do a lot of condo gutters anymore, but I get some houses with slam packed pine straw, and it is sometimes very difficult to just blow out, but is a pain to have to pull by hand.

Just be careful with your strengths! I'd rather have to brush a bit harder to get them clean than have to come back tomorrow to spray paint the gutters where I took the paint off! I mix 50/50 in a pump sprayer, spray it on the gutters AFTER I've downstreamed the housewash mix, and then rinse. That usually does the trick, but on cheaper gutters, gutters that have been painted, or on cheaper fascia wrap, it is easy to take the paint off even without brushing. I've found Xjetting takes too long (whether you're downstreaming or Xjetting housewash), and wastes way too much chem, and at $50.00 or so for 5 gallons, I want to stretch that stuff as far as I can. My method isn't efficient for 2nd story or higher gutters, but 99% of what I do is single story ranch style houses.