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Posts posted by rick77
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I hate to mention another forum on this forum but I need some help from anybody who knows how to contact the administrators of the Pressure Washing Institute Forum. I lost my password and can't log in on the *** forum. They have a link for retrieving password and username but they don't answer the email or send the forgotten password or username.
They also have a "Contact Us" button but it brings up a 404 Error message. I've tried multiple times to get through and have contacted one of the moderators but have have heard nothing.
I'm not sure if the *** administrators are aware of the problems with their website or not. If anyone has any contact info please send me a private message or email me at richard@nctv.com
Thanks!
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Hey Richard, did you get your 8gpm rig up and running?It's good to hear from ya!
Hey Micah, yeah man!! I've been using the new 8 gpm machine for several weeks now. The large residential I did today took 3 hours but used to take 6 hours with my 4 gpm machine. 8 gpm is awesome!
Great to hear from you. Hope all is well!
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If I did, I would be the fastest and best painter in the south!! That pic was taken 3 min after first application.....Speaking of application, how did you apply the F9? Truck brush on extension pole? Pump spray bottle?
By the way, great results!
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You can buy them at any plastic tank manufacture or dealer that sells them. They go for about $50 if I am remembering correctly.Because of the chemicals and the fact that our rigs are in the sun day in and day out, we do not use the fabric Nylon straps, though many contractors do use them and have good results. For us, we have experienced that these nylon straps from Home Depot will eventually decay and you may not notice it until they break. Since our water tanks are over 350 gallons, we tend to think of the possibilities that would present if a mishap was to happen while driving down the freeway or a sudden stop.
Go to this website:
http://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=N-63546
you will find your straps there.
Tank Depot wants $179.55 for shipping those metal bands that weigh 25 lbs. I can't find an online source for tank bands that has reasonably priced shipping. I don't mind paying for shipping, but $180.00 to ship a 25 lb item? That's just not reasonable to me. I'll probably just make my own tank bands out of conduit and save a couple of hundred bucks or more.
But I do appreciate your input Jim. Thanks!
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I will send you a diagram on email and try to explain it the best I can. Maybe it will work for you.E. Attack, please do send a diagram of how to make the tank bands. I made some before (for a 35 gallon leg tank) by using a pipe bender to bend conduit pipe into the round shape of the tank. But I actually never used them on my 35 gallon tank. Just used motor cycle straps. On my new 225 gallon leg tank I want the metal bands whether store bought or home made.
My email is richard@nctv.com
Thanks!
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I need bands for a 225 gallon leg tank. All the sites I've visited online want $100.00 to 150.00 for shipping alone. That's way more than the straps cost.
Who sells the bands for a reasonable price as well as reasonable shipping cost?
Thanks!
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I just painted my trailer with Rust-Oleum 7779 Gloss Black. Looks Great! Put some new wood on it too, getting ready for this season. It is oil based enamel and I apply it with a 4" super fine foam roller. The foam roller kinda gives it a smoother, powder-coat type" finish.[ATTACH]20026[/ATTACH]Jon Bennett
Bennett Exterior
Maize, KS
That trailer looks brand new! Good work!
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I find the glossier the paint the stronger it is. I use semi gloss black.I think I'll stay with the semi gloss black paint. And it'll probably end up being flat black after a few years anyway.
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I would want some shine....that's just me.Pics of samples?
Beth
Yeah, a little shine was what I was shooting for with the semi-gloss but it kinda looked super glosssy when I did a test spot on my trailer. But maybe that's because the shiny spot is surrounded by the old ugly oxidized paint on the rest of the trailer.
My trailer is too ugly to post picks of right now. LOL
I'm just gonna spray some black paint on the rails and tongue for right now since it's the busy season. Maybe come Winter I can strip the trailer down and do a really nice paint job on it. I may even paint it blue since that's my company color.
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For those of you who have your trailer painted black, which do you prefer........gloss, semi-gloss, or flat black paint? I sprayed a little semi gloss on part of one of my trailers and it looks really glossy. I'm thinking about flat black paint instead of gloss. What do you use?
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Thanks for the replies with great info guys. I read on another forum that you can put an elbo just before the swivel connection on the Whisper Wash Classic and it will help a good bit in keeping the surface cleaner from lifting too much when using an 8gpm machine.
The Pressure Pro 8gpm does sound like a great resi machine. I've been using a 5x10 single axle trailer for about 5 years but just got a 12x6 tandem axle trailer and a 275 gallon water tank so I'm all set for the Pressure Pro 8gpm machine. Can't wait to get the 8gpm unit and get it set up.
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I'm looking at buying an 8gpm cold water machine from Pressure Tek. It has a 20 hp Honda engine with an 8gpm (belt drive) general pump rated at 3,000 psi. I've read that the 20 hp Honda doesn't really produce 3,000 psi with the 8gpm pump but I'm ok with that as long as I get a true 8gpm.
But will this machine work well with my Whisper Wash Classic for residential concrete? Hot water is not my concern in this particular post. I will get a hot box or maybe even a complete hot water skid later on down the road if I choose to go the hot water route.
The Pressure Pro 8gpm cold water machine sells for $2,999.00 which seems to be a really good price. Any thoughts or feedback on this machine?
If this machine is not very compatible with my Whisper Wash Classic I can just continue to use my 4gpm 4,000 psi belt drive machine for resi concrete as it does a great job without damaging the concrete and use the 8gpm machine for vertical structures.
I do mostly residential power washing but occasionally commercial buildings that are are already my window cleaning customers.
Thanks for any and all feedback.
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Thanks for the info! I belive the shark cage surrounding the tank is 4X4 width wise but the actual tank is probably 3.5 X 3.5 width wise which by the above formula would be 274.89 gallons. So I guess I've got the 275 gallon tote tank.
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How many gallons do the square tote tanks (that are 4'x4' width x 3' tall) hold?
Thanks!
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Whenever it gets loose....snip some more. Or just use a clamp and keep the x jet with the bucket attached to the cord.Since I started this thread way back when I have switched to downstreaming and really never use the X-Jet. I keep it on hand for just in case but haven't needed it since probably Spring 2009. Still good advice though for those that use the X-Jet.
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Both downstreaming and X-Jetting are efficient methods for house washing. If they weren't both efficient methods there would'nt be all of the debates of one vs. the other. It's simply a matter of preference.
Personally, I find dragging a soap bucket or soap cart around a house and dealing with the extra (soap) hose to be a bummer. I've used both methods and prefer the downstreaming method by far.
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Dont you guys bust alot of hoses throughout the year downstreaming? I have been xjetting forever. I have 50 ft. of poly hose and my guys may have to move the bucket 2 or three times. No big deal. I like the fact that I can control my mixes in a 5gal. bucket.I've yet to bust a hose while downstreaming. I did buy an extra 100' grey non marking hose this year in case a hose does go bad but it hasn't happened so far.
If you didn't have to move your soap bucket and 50' soap hose 2 or 3 times ( or more likely 10 to 15 times while x-jetting) you may not need extra guys on your crew(s).
To quote fellow power washer by the name of Bobby Weir, "I don't work for that hose, that hose works for me". My point is that my 200' of hose has worked for me with no problem whatsoever even though chemicals run through it. I'd rather the hose work for me instead of me working for the hose by me dragging a soap bucket around at the end of the gun. I didn't realize just how unnecessarily hard I was working (dragging soap bucket around) back when I X-Jetted. When I switched to downstreaming I saw the light. LOL!!
If one of my hoses craps out on me due to downstreaming so be it. That hose will have served me so very well and saved hundreds of hours of lifting and toting a soap bucket and hose (or dealing with a soap cart).
And when that hose goes bad my back is still good. I can easily buy a new hose but I've only got one back.
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99% of my house washes can be done with 200' of hose. If the rare occasion arises that I need 300' of hose, I just put a downstreamer inline 200' from my gun. This FAR outweighs x-jetting or any other method in my opinion.The same here. Most of my accounts can be done with 200' of hose. Occasionally I'll add a 50' section of hose for extra long reach. I still get great chem draw (via my fixed
General injector) with 250' of hose.
That's a great idea to place a downstream injector 200' before the gun when you add a 100' section of hose for a total of 300' reach. Just be extra careful not to turn the chem bucket over in somebody's lawn as you pull the hose.
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I use a full brim white hard hat that I bought at Lowe's. It's waterproof so soap/bleach doesn't go through and wet my head. It has also helped me avoid many a headache when I've bumped my head into the ladders or other items on my trailer.
I actually searched for a long time for a good hat and never found anything that I liked that was bleach proof. The full brim hardhat is here to stay for me. Cheap too! I think around $15.00 @ Lowe's The white one will match any uniform too.
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Thanks Big Mike! I'll send my customer a copy of it.
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I would like to read the other thread but search "wet & forget" only yields this thread. Any other clues on the other thread content/subject?
The other thread is titled "Spray & Forget" but I think they are referring to the same product. Not much info in that thread though.
Two days ago I emailed the company that makes "Wet & Forget" and asked them to send me an MSDS but I haven't heard from them yet. They did have a link to the MSDS on their website but it didn't work.
I don't plan to use the product myself. From what I've read here so far it looks like it would be expensive and a long time before any results could be seen whether they be good or bad. Maybe I'll print out this thread and give it to my customer so she can decide for herself whether or not the product is something she wants to use.
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One of my customers called today to ask what I could tell her about a product called "Wet & Forget". She said it's a product that you can spray on moldy & mildewy surfaces and just leave it there and it supposedly does a great job. I told her I had never heard of the product but that I would ask about it on the power washing forum.
I'm scheduled to power wash her house in a couple of weeks but I think she's interested in the Wet & Forget product for in between power washing services. Anybody know anything about this product?
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If you were in Viet Nam you might be gruff too.Maybe so, maybe not so, but if I were your congressman I surely would not pull the crap that you saw in the video. What a JERK!!!!!
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I do not know how old that video is but the speaker died today.I saw that on the news that he died today. I hate that he died but I'm glad that he'll no longer be doing the things like in the video clip. The media says he had a "gruff personality" but I think they may be sugar coating it.
Pressure Washing Institute Forum (Administrators?)
in The Club House
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Thanks Chris! Yesterday Ron's assistant sent me the info I needed and Ron himself sent a couple of follow up emails to make sure everything was taken care of. I also heard from the moderator I had contacted via email.