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about 10 to 12 seconds here too!!!

Thanks Daryl, Thanks Beth. Daryl, its right at around 100'. I could have gotten by with less for what its beign used for, but since the hose came from a good section of retired roof cleaning hose, I figured why not.

I thought I would share my mobile shurflo design. Obviously not as impressive as the Decker or Deckster, but it's still a wonderful tool for easy mobile chem application. I use it mainly for applying degreasers, acids, and gutter cleaner (for tall structures). I've never tried applying stain with it, and don't really plan too. My goal was to keep it simple, efficient and a light weight as possible. It's designed for 5g buckets with special QC lid to easily switch from bucket to bucket. I originally planned to allow the buckets to be secured at the bottom so they can be pulled around, but realized that not all buckets are created equal and trying to secure a water tight fit with one lid just wasn't working. The ball valve with QC that attachés to the lid allows the ability to not lose prime, and to not drip chem when switching out buckets. I stays well balanced as long as the ground is at least somewhat level and it's light enough so it can easily be lifted when need be. I opted for the non pneumatic wheels because I wanted as least amount of weight as possible and because of its light weight pneumatic wheels just weren't necessary.

As much as I hate wood, the thought of doing anything to it for less than 1,000 makes me cringe. :sinister:

I think that in most cases this is horse crap. It's either an excuse to allow time to think about it, or a way to send you packing without having to tell you "no sale".

ditto what Mike said about D.S.'ing. I started with it for my first year in biz, and didn't really have a problem with it, but I was using a smaller machine, a crummy injector and generally wasn't nearly as good at P.W. at that time. I think all these factors played a role on my opinions of D.S.'ing. Now that I've tried both methods for extensive lengths of time I KNOW D.S.'ing is faster if you allow time for the change in procedure and make sure you're using the right equipment.

What kind of "Commercial chemical" were you using to clean the vinyl? Did you add any bleach to your mix? what was your mix ration of chem to water? Yes. in most cases, pretty much any exterior should be able to be easily cleaned with very little pressure or effort on your part. If you have to muscle it off, you're probably using the wrong chemicals or ratios of chemicals. Give us a little more info on the questions I asked and we can better understand where you went wrong.

Any Hendrix fans? This is probably a shot in the dark, but I'm a little desperate and about out of options. I'm looking for a copy of an album by Jimi Hendrix Called "Early Instrumentals" released in 1992 (compilation). I used to have this on cassette about 10 years ago and absolutely loved it, but unfortunately my cassette player in my car finally decided to eat it. I've recently been on a search to find a another copy (hopefully on CD or MP3) to replace it. I've called/visited every local music store in my area and have spent hours searching the Internet with no luck. It's almost like it never existed, as there's not a single copy available anywhere, and barely any mention of it anywhere on the Internet. If anyone either has a copy of this, or knows where I can buy one, I would be indebted to you. Now that I've got the ball rollin, I'm starting to really jones for it. Help!!!

Thanks guys. Adrian, sounds like some good leads, the only thing is, I would rather find someone that has transfered it to digital media, and maybe cleaned it up a little, but of course beggers can't be choosers. I do have a few leads, one guy who has the cassette who's willing to copy it to another cassette for me, and another guy who appears to have it in mp3 format, but I haven't heard back from him yet. If all I can find is cassette, that might not be such a bad thing because I can always look around and find someone who does sound work and have it cleaned up and transfered to digital format. I do appreciate both of you for trying to help.

I'm a big proponent to turning the ball valve in my downstream line so I can rinse certain areas with lower pressure i.e. landscape, windows, delicate surfaces, etc., but, yes, if one doesn't want to have to turn off the downstreamer you can shut off the pull with a smaller orifice tip. I use a 5.5 gpm machine, and my downstreamer stops pulling with around a #15-20 orifice. I usually apply my chems with either a regular soap tip, 0540, 0030 - 0050, or a 1540. I most commonly rinse with 9510, 8010, 8020, 6515, 0515, 0012, 0015, 0020, or 0030.

Just going on sq ft. with no pictures, I would gander an estimate at between 1,300 and 1,700 dollars, but I've never cleaned a house anywhere near that big so.....

I think the problem could partly be due to geographic locations. From some of the pictures I've seen of the average kind of houses up North, The style, in general, is quite different than what we have around here. From what I've seen, the houses up north tend to be much taller than the average houses around here, as well as much more simple in shape. Meaning like a tall box with a roof on it. Houses like that would allow almost total access from ground level. The houses around here can be quite intricate, most have screen enclosures, and parts of the house that can't be cleaned or reached without climbing on the roof, or over a balcony and that just can't be done with an X-jet. This was one of the main reasons I went back to down-streaming as my 1st choice for cleaning exteriors. I still use the x-jet, for some applications, but, when it comes to house washing, it's just not as convenient in most situations for the kind of houses I'm cleaning.

Not sure about gutter buster, but yeah, Ripper is crap.

I don't really do much wood, but when I have, or when applying F-18 to concrete, I try and always where a respirator. I must be one of those rare people that has very little visable effects from contact with skin because I've gotten the stuff on me plenty of times and have never had a burn (sometimes a slight itch). Like Ken, I'm also real big on protecting my eyes.

Downstreaming is faster when you've got the right tips and other equipment.

Amen to that!!!!

How are you applying the PP? I apply it full strength via a brush and it works just as good as any other gutter cleaner in my opinion.

Most definitely. A lot of guys run upwards of 300 -400 ft., you'll lose a little buy no too much. I personally don't like to use more than about 250ft of hose when all possible. Also becasuse I think I would loss some chem pull ability with more hose than that. The only place you will really notice the change in flow/pressure with an extra 100' of hose is when using a surface cleaner.

I agree. Unfortunely it's one of those movies that I'll never forget from childhood.

I think it's because they are talking sanitizing, where as what your doing is breaking down mildew and algea for removal. They seem to be different things.

I was thinking the same thing. There's quite a difference in killing microbials compared to bleaching and killing algea. The solution might kill just as effectively, or more so, but if it's dead and still on the roof, deck, etc that could be a problem. I'm still very interested in looking into it all the same.

That's really interesting. I wonder how that approach would work on roofs, or if it would possible to increase the bleach to water ratio just a bit before adding the vinigar for cleaning somthing like a roof. I can't wait to experiment with this.

Oil companies don't bother me much, I'm working on an engine for my PW and for my truck that runs on poop. Can't wait!!

thanks Neil, that helps answer a few questions.