Andrew Bandarovich

Thank you Michael. Do you fix your equipment yourself? Any good shops in NJ or Philadelphia you know of?

I use 3-5 Gpm and flush and for me they stop drawing very soon too. I use fixed GP. I am thinking to try Envirospecs forced chemical induction system. Even if there is a little Venturi going the 12 v pump will force injector to completely open. Plus you can reduce amount of water with ball valve and have stronger mix. http://www.envirospec.com/ecatalog/Injectors.htm

Thought we should have one to have everything in one place. Moderator, please make this a sticky. I ll start: I have Honda GX390 with a problem that goes like this - I turn choke lever to the left, start it, raise rpm to the max with speed lever and when I return choke lever all the way to the right the engine starts running rough (surging up and down). I have to back out choke 1/4 of the way to keep engine running smooth and not surge. Honda shop says the needle in the carb needs to be adjusted to enrich it. But it would take a week for them to get to it. I can't leave pressure washer there for a week. Anyone has experience with GX390 carbs and knows how to enrich the mix?

Cleaned out carburator and it is running good now. Thank you everyone.

Thank you Alexy. I am actually planning to remove the gas tank and mount bigger one above it on the frame.

Governor was replaced two weeks ago, the spring is there and is connected at both ends. I had this issue before governor replacement.

Thank you Russ. Will try this out and report back.

You can use NY stickers in CT.

I was looking at my Hotsy 1075BE the other day. 2009, 1855hrs on the meter but meter stopped working some time ago so I'd say more like 2500hrs. It runs good, heats water well just looks like !!!!. Red paint on frame peeled off and frame is rusting, coil wrap red paint bubbled up and fell off, coil cap rusted. I thought it may be time to replace it with a new one. Typically units I buy these days go $6000-7500. I tried many brands and believe that Alkota or Hydrotek are the brands I am sticking to. Then I stopped I thought, why spend 7500$ if this one still runs well? I replaced 12v burner on it to 110v, I recently spent 600$ on replacing half of aluminum case and governor on the gx390 engine, pump has new seals. The thing has original pressure switch! Yes, some things will go on it since it has some age but if I keep parts on hand I can minimize downtime. What are we talking about? 500$ coil? 500$ pump? 1000$ engine that can be bought rebuilt for 300$ on craigslist? still far less than 7500$. Warranty? Please, i never had machine break down during warranty period. So what about overhauling it? Here are some ideas I had: Strip machine of all parts, sand blast the frame and either spray it with Rhino liner or paint with that outer space amazing paint called POR-15(por15.com). Another idea, take the frame to a fabricating shop and have them copy it in stainless steel? Hotsy sells stainless coil wrap for my machine as an upgrade but I am sure fabricator can roll me one for half price. Coil cap - duplicate in stainless. When reassembling maybe change safety things like pressure reliefs.

Yesterday my burner sounded wierd. Like if it was chocking and water would be hot and then warm and then hot again. Tonight I turned it on and heat kicked in for 5 seconds and stopped at all. I opened pressure switch and manually pressed on the knob to activate it. Nothing. I changed element in my racor diesel filter (was due anyways). Nothing. I noticed that there is no fuel bubbles in the filter bowl which typically there is some motion. I drained the bowl and when started the machine I noticed that the bowl was filling up very slow. I didn't have voltmeter so could not check voltage at solenoid. It's a 110v burner plugged directly into wall outlet. I unscrewed small plug on the fuel pump that is used to release trapped air - fuel was coming out of it. Tightened it back up. So no, it not air bubble in diesel. Last thing I did I unscrewed copper fuel line from the burner that comes out of the fuel pump, squeezed the trigger and there was no fuel coming out of the copper tube. Is it safe to say my fuel pump is dead or there are additional steps/checks I should be making?

Doug, I will squeeze another 2 years from this one and it goes into retirement. It will have 3000-4000 hours on it then. Alexy, the screen is 50% of the fuel pump - it's not little. Put a drip tray under fuel pump. Using Allen wrench take out four bolts on the front of the fuel pump (where the label is), pull the cover off (watch the gasket) and the screen will be right there. I soaked it in caustic degreaser and then sprayed hot water from the inside out. Dried with air compressor. Put it back, turn it on, open bleed out valve and wait for steady stream, close it and that's it.

Yep, she fired up like the day I got it. (Note to self, add fuel pump strainer cleaning to the annual maintenance list).

I poked around the web and came across websites like home heating.net and others. I found out that there is a screen inside the pump. I opened it and took out the screen and to say that it was plugged wouldn't even begin to describe it. You couldn't tell it was a screen. I cleaned it to new condition and put it back. Whenever I get a chance I will test to see if that fixed it.

Burner switch was on and thermostat turned all the way up.

I have a unit that needs descaling. It also needs new pump seals and valves. Is it ok to run acid coil cleaner through the pump since I am going to replace valves and seals right after?

General 2021, 800 hrs. Vibration at the gun. Bypassed everything and connected directly to coil with short jumper - vibrates even stronger. Periodically vibration get stronger and water comes out rusty. Water level in the tank is good, water is clean. Heater turns on even without the gun attached to the hose where it used to not heat water until you put tip in the gun - how come pressure switch activates? My thoughts: worn seals, cracked piston, bad unloader, blockage in the coil. Bypass hoses seems to vibrate more than I think it should when in bypass.

I guess it's time I buy one of those "how to rebuild general pump" DVDs....Thanks guys.

This unit was abused by employees.

I have two exactly same Ramteq DV2500 vertical skids that are only 300 hrs apart. 110v burners. One never gives out any smoke, not even a puff when you squeeze trigger. The other one gives a big puff of blue diesel smelling smoke when you open the gun and then runs pretty clean just smells like diesel. Last night guys called me saying the smoke is white ( which means not enough fuel). What am I looking at for the remedy to the first issue and what can cause second issue of white smoke. I was thinking that blue smoke and tacky smell may be from insulation soaked in diesel due to malfunction in burner or burner nozzle? And white smoke may be from nozzle totally clogged?

Jerry, are you referring to electrode setting diagram?

The unit has 800 hours and that burner was never opened before since I never had a problem. It was burning clean and then started smelling. Seems like wear and tear issue.

There is someone in Brooklyn but I don't know the info.

Hotsy AquaTech USA Hackettstown NJ 200 West Stiger Street Hackettstown, NJ 07840

530 S 4th Ave Mount Vernon, NY 10550-4404 914-375-5811

I just had 6 inch hose from pump to unloader fail. Water squirted everywhere. I thought ok no biggie I have 2 foot jumper hose on me. Boom! It doesn't fit! Can someone explain to me why pressure hoses going in and out of unloader have hydraulic ends on them rather than regular npt thread ends?