Jerry

one more thing.. if you're going to go to "that" level of performance, con canNOT cut corners on ANYthing.. beef wiring, beefy connections, Japanese relays, NOT Chinese, DIY's don't get these results.. it's hard to think of everything. Stick with a 3000 watt generator, and you'll be fine.

I remember a dual heater 26hp diesel diesel system we set up about 27 years ago.. with 2000 watt Winco generator, and an interlock relay with delay-on, so they could never be started at the same time.. we were careful to use small capacitor-start blower-motors, and once the burner motors were running, the HV and fuel solenoids were "allowed" to fire (by flow-switch control), ..with delay on relays. The Winco generator was mounted in a protective housing since they HATE moisture, and it lasted about 5 years on an otherwise abusive construction site. At about 9 years old, an idiot accidentally drove his earthmover over the truck-bed-mounted system, .. and squished it, truck and all, .. or it would still be alive today .. like all our other Diesel-Diesel systems. Come to think of it.. I don't remember replacing more than 1 High voltage, and 1 fuel solenoid over all those years. Can you say.. Long-Term-Low-Cost ?? We understand controls.

you might use a 1 1/4" flexible exhaust line plumbed to dump into the top of the heater stack. To quiet remaining engine noise, you'd have to put just the right sound-dampening panels around the engine, but it HAS to be able to breathe.

water coming out a spray nozzle at 6000 psi is travelling at over mach 1

Aqua Blast does a great job with those 10kpsi + units That gets you into the coatings removal business, ..and "Turtle Skins" for sure.

Hmm.. I remember my first Diesel.. in 1987.. a dual-pump 12@3500 with dual heaters.. (115 volt ).. I learned the customer ' preference to a Lister Diesel.. was CRAzy.. ..you can't have fillings in your teeth and stand next to one. My last diesel was a 35hp Vanguard TurboDiesel.. sweet running at 6gpm@6000psi and a few trailered 24gpm @ 2000 psi wash-down systems that went to Hawaii. Several quotes are out on diesel-diesel 12-4000 w/ dual heaters..

Least expensive method (so far) for foam control.. our 15gl SandTrap with a slide-in Filter Screen, placed between the Vacuum WasteTank and the air-mover.. just spray the slide-in filter with defoamer, eliminating "continuous-feed" defoamer costs, and it controls foam for hours. It also has a large capacity for trapping liquid. Instead of going through massive quanities of defoamer, a few squirts on the BIG filter screen, and the liquid dropps to the bottom of the tank ! Yes, a secondary auto-pump-out can also be added. A system with all the beef, and insurance added.. is the most productive system of all. John, The simplest, easiest, beefiest, lowest cost method of achieving LONG-Term-Low-Cost is right here.. We aim to be your favorite suppllier, by being SO good at it, you just need to clean. We enable you to do a "compelling demo".. by design, and 35 years experience in custom systems.

Shawn, Chris is right.. both of those systems have plumbed unloaders.. This allows them to bypass back to a holding tank when the trigger-gun is off. When the unloader is molded in to the pump, you cannot remove the internal bypass, which GREATLY limits how long you can leave the trigger-gun off, without overheating the water-seals. Bypass overheat is the #1 killer of seals. (.. not fur-hunters with baseball bats.)

Shawn, you have a good handfull of suggestions going for you here, from C'cleaners, like you want to be. I'm an equipment guy, so here's my side of the coin.. 1. when the cleaning gets tough, the temperature is turned up, and/or the pressure is set to full, ..or, you'll be in for a whole lot of chemical expense, and waste-water-management. ..and water-supply is a problem at the damndest times, in the most expensive ways. a Turbo-nozzle might be the cool-tool where you need it, and or the extra heat. you need to Know chemicals, just don't let them "abuse you". 2. if you're going to add "Enviro-Friendly" ..as homeowners almost always prefer, you'd better watch you chemical use. 3. if you stress your funds in an attempt to go for "mega-power", without saving a little for the "unforeseen", you'll be sorry. 4. certification in paver-sealing can be a GREAT jump-start to your venture, if you're looking for a gimmick, or niche, to suppliment your "siding" experience. Call Seal n Lock 5. I said "siding" experience, because you are already an expert in glass, and painted surfaces.. be confident that flatwork is easier than trying not to damage a surface whilst you try not to fall from it. EH? 6. please consider my specialty before you invest in Reclaim equipment.. especially sinse you can call me for the detail in technical assistance at any time, ..and you'll get straight explanation that will save you time, money, customers, or all 3.. Otherwise.. got forth, and prosper. You're in good hands, and community here. :{)

call me for anything about Wash Water Reclaim, or making a pressure washer reliable. I enjoy being an experienced technical-guy, and I will never waste your time.

There will always be "dogs loose in the neighborhood", but a willingness to "police those dogs".. should be able to manage that. And about that "energy".. I totally agree.. The general community spirit in the PW blogs, ..and the active interest it has shown to analize and learn the next best tools and processes available, the Grime Scene, and *** bloggs should be proud of the general ability they've shown to educate. Now, with the gatherings of contractors in the interest of further education and "Real" certification.. there's nothing stopping us.

Ron, the people that know you, won't have many questions.. that's why you'll be a great Pres.. You put answers before questions. Coaching is a great way to teach and lead.. everyone has more fun ! Only someone that already runs a "turn-Key" business also has time for that. You have LOTS of success and knowledge to share. Anyone with a positive attitude can already see this in the posts you've placed in these blogs over the many years. As we live in an "addictive society".. you seem to be addicted to coaching. Lead ON brother-man !

I totally agree.. We use it on EVERY battery. ..and stainless steel hardware with "star-washers". Bad connections start at the factory.. or not. ..another reminder that a Really good service department.. does LOTS of upgrades 'n bullet-proofing.

If you want to make that heater reliable, there's a few "bugs" you'll have to remove, even after finding "today's problem" ..and remember.. one problem can cause several effects. and, (just for variety..) if you don't test things properly, you can cause more expensive things to fail.. NEVER test a H.V. ignitor without using a paperclip to make a "gap" across the springs of about 1/2" BEFORE you energize it.. If too big a gap "overloads" the ignitor to failure.. you just spent $150. If it fails on your next job.. you may loose a whole contract = priceless Respect the tech ! ..call one, or see one. BTW.. if you get a 23hp Vanguard.. the 20amp or better charging system will help with reliability on that heater. Otherwise.. UPgrade that relay to a 70 or 80 amp Mini-relay like we use, to reduce the requirement on your charging system. ..and those rusty terminals have to GO ! upgrade to tinned-copper terminals, and use stainless-steel Star-Washers on threaded terminals.. True-Value Hardware stores have LOTS of stainless. click the "like" button if I've helped you at all. Eh? click here to see equipment that does NOT need "upgrading"

Yeah.. make SURE you don't get a "plated-steel" swivel.. ONLY stainless steel. I like the ones that have standard op-rings.. whren you rebuild 'em, use viton as an upgrade, or even bertter.. use a viton "Quad" o-ring.. they double the seal-surface area, and double the pressure rating. the Adams swivels, and Mosmatic swivels seen to be the very best in rebuildability.

beefier version pump is good, but.. make sure it still has 3/4" inlets, so you aren't down with rat-bites in yer seals from cavitation. O.K. I am a broken record, but newbie needs to know. Right ? ..EVERYthing wears out faster at that pressure too.. I have some VERY reliable systems out there on 5kpsi, but I still have to say, plan on an extra $500. in repair costs per year, or.. USE the extra pressure to do "more amazing" stuff that makes more amazing money. ..and leverage the difference into your marketing. so.. I guess.. Pick a perspentive that works for you, and don't blame the equipment for failure. oh.. and instant-capture is your best friend.

With Kubota, you just have to be careful with the smaller versions.. they come with TINY-little charging systems.. If you have enough HP to run a nice pump, you'll want to run a nice heater. Eh? ...and ALWAYS get the full control panel with auto-shutdowns.. temp limit, low oil, etc. :{)

there are SO many pulley combinations to choose from, and you have to get it exactly right.. In fact, I have SO much time invested in the pulley-charts I use, I would have to charge a fee for coaching someone on this stuff.. unless you're an active customer, of course. It's REALLY time consuming. Belt tensioners and mounting brackets.. Hmm.. I might make mine available.. NONE of my brackets has EVER broken, or worn out. Beefy is all we think about all day long. see some here.. Engine Cold. look close under the pumps.. beefy U-channel, and angle iron, adjustment slots built-in to the frame with 1" .120 wall square tube, and triple-step powdercoated to NOT rust for decades.. ..When I say beefy, I mean Ivan "IronMan" Stewart couldn't break my hotrods. And yes, I've sold several systems to race teams. :{)

I agree with the AR pumps.. just be sure to get the XW with 3/4" inlets.. going to the 5000 psi version with 1/2" inlets is NOT better.. Tank-feed with the largest fittings and feed lines, and filter you can afford.. I'm even suggesting DUAL-FEED THAT PUMP !!.. you'l have MUCH better seal life, and MUCH less of that expensive downtime. Stick with brass hose barbs, and NO "flow restriction" BTW.. use the search in this blog to find more detail than you would have imagined. I've posted a TON of info on this to help folks like you :{)

Go with a Japanese diesel, and do NOT raise those pumps on a platform.. keep them ON the floor, and for the same reason.. .. Dual "feed both" of those pump ! Got reclaim ?? BTW.. the reason for going 3500 or 4000 psi.. it delivers the 3000 psi you need for concrete in smaller hoses and longer distances.

Life is short, ..as we are reminded every day. hopefully less traumaticly. Our prayers begin.. for you and your friend. I tell my family.. "never skip a hug" for many reasons. ;l

Git 'em Vince !

Robin, you have a text-book-perfect example so far, of how to make seals last. Call me for more. :)

230 volt pump-outs are available ! we trade in Australia, England, Ireland, Samoa, Kuwait, .. freight is manageable.

you will find that my very reasonable prices are structured to keep you focussed on making money cleaning. We sell our Vacuum WasteTanks with auto-pump-out so inexpensively, you can't afford to do it yourself. I really appreciate the respectfull treatment, and honesty.. that is the foundation for a sustainable relationship, for sure. All that said, If you let me help you, you will find we are VERY good, at keeping your cost down, LongTerm.. the right "info" saves you time. the right investment saves you money, and does a much more "compelling demo". Even if you don't buy from me every time I help you, I still like referrals, just like you do. Eh?