Jerry

a Respectfull First impression is your first chance at "keeping" the customer.. I say work, live, breathe respectfully, so you'll always have friends, and you'll also be surprizingly Lucky. There is SO much disrespect in today's society, I'm embarrassed for the "average" parents.

P.S. I think VERY highly of Southside-Russ, the Hinderlighters, the EnviroSpec crew, and any other team that will deliver BEEF, PLUMBED correctly, and back it up with real-world technical help.. before, during, AND after the "sale". Several of my dealers are doing a very good job with this too.. you NEED it, you DESERVE it, but you might have to specify it a little. Eh ? Respect the "Tech".

You all tend to go off on brand names.. It's not the "brand" that makes the reliability.. it's how it is "PLUMBED".. period. the "beef" is about the model within the brand.. buy a "heavy" pump.. bigger rods, bigger bearings.. THAT's beef. And, most brands have a selection of sizes to choose from, and parts prices vary "traumatically".. example.. for 5 gpm 3000psi.. Cat 5CP5120 weighs 20lbs, valves can cost $200 per set. AR pumps.. RK series weighs 21 pounds... valves.. $60. CAT #56 is rated 5.5gpm tp 3500psi, and weghs 26lbs AR RW21 ..weighs 31lbs... difference in price.. enough to include about 10 years-worth of parts. AR #XW can do 4000psi, weighs 34lbs, and is still less expensive than a Cat. AR SXW is rated to 5000psi, weighs a whopping 35 lbs, and is less expensive than the Cat 56. Comet, General, Udor, and Giant have BEEFY pumps too.. just compare weight, and parts cost, for "Long-Term-Low-Cost". ..Got it ?? ..if you want the "Snap-On-Tool, for the Sears price".. it's NOT going to have a Cat pump. Buy the BEEF ! ..and enjoy easier to find, lower cost parts, that are usually beefier. ..and demand that it be plumbed with a BIG feed-line (or 2 !), a "high-volume bypass" line.. preferrebly back to a holding tank. Now, about the heater controls.. Flow switch.. only allows the heater to fire-up, if there is actually FLOW. ..and lasts about 3 to 6 years, depending on how BEEFY is the wiring. Pressure Switch.. only lasts about 6 to 12 months because the moving part requires seals that move, with every actuation. they wear out. (The flow-switch doesn't have moving seals.) Pressure-actuation is a REALLY BIG problem WHEN the pressure-actuated unloader wears out (and becomes "sticky"), allowing pressure to fire-up the heater with NO WATER MOVING ! That, my friends, is called "the catastrophic trauma" that causes the "catastraphic FAILURE.. "POP goes the coil ". Even if you pay a buck extra for the FLOW-actuated unloader valve, a pressure-switch is just not as reliable.

"Some of us" sell the temp guages with a Hi-Pressure Tee-coupler to allow direct immersion, with NO flow restriction. Circuit breaker at the battery connection to the heater system is good, it also protects the burner motor too. Curcuit breaker on the charging system is cool, but for insurance on everything else.. I like standard fuses (that are easy to find in a pinch,) and are more accurate in circuit protection. My formal education was in Electrical Engineering, so I'm a bit more than meticulous about these things.. ..You won't see "smoke rising" from one of my electrical systems, ever. ..but you might need a fuse, on a really hot day... That reminds me.. I got a call from a customer I hadn't heard from in several years.. He just wanted to say "thanks, for the spare fuses" we (usually) throw-in to the control box of our heaters. I love my job.

Landa's schematic is "fine".. but.. I always add indicator lights at the temp controls, and flow switch. I use fuses to protect everything.. control circuit, HV, Blower-motor, even the engine's charging system gets it's own fuse.

Brian, there is a GREAT descale acid for safely blasting the rust away.. and circulates through your pump safely. I have been using it in our service dept for over 25 years. It can ship as NON-hazardous, so freight is cheep.. 10 lbs containers and 50 lbs boxes too. 5 lbs can descale a coil in about 2 hours ! also available.. a kit that converts a 5 gl pail into a descale bucket, with filters. The same acid removes stains fron Concrete stains better and safer than anything else I've seen. Period. About the heater position.. horizontal keeps rain out of the electrode assemby. It has a lower profile for parking garages, but it rusts on it's side. Vertical has a smaller footprint, is easier to change coil, but it gets rain down it's throat when you'r not lookin'. You decide. Either way, you need controls.. ours yields an average "coil life-span" of 12 to 15 years.

U R A good student !! you get A+ ! Firing on the bench, with NO back-pressure from the coil, makes the burn very inefficient.. in fact, the fire is completely different. If you have it firing as well as you describe, it's "ready to fly", but.. You will have to adjust the air-bands again when it is installed. the goal, is the "perfect burn".. Open the air-bands only enough to get a "clean burn".. NO more air than that, or you risk "blowing out" the spark you need for reliability. If you need any other info, schematics, safety & reliability suggestions, I will be glad to help.

Good call on guage availablity, but I avoid allowing a heater to run over 140psi, as the fire-ball changes shape (the wrong way). ..fatter is better. Airband adjustment should NEVER be all-open, as it can "blow-out" the spark, and push the fuel-spray into the coil before it is all burned.. .. same problem as too much fuel pressure. about replacing the nozzle.. like in the Nike ads.. "just do it"

Good job so far ! you are meticulous, and we can be very productive with your summary ! you will need that pressure guage, for sure, but you're not far from up and running.. You're right.. too much fuel, OR not enough air.. If the air bands are most of the way open, your fuel pressure is probably too high. If the airbands are half-way open (or less,).. open them a bit, and the smoke should clean up. Unless. there is, in fact too much fuel pressure.. Where is that guage ?? ..EVERY diesel burner should have a guage, to quickly eliminate downtime, and to monitor the system is the first place. Eh? Anyway.. Check the EASIEST things first, but.. Be aware of the possibilities.. fuel pump out of adjustment, burner nozzle worn, low voltage to the burner assembly, burner motor failing (turning too slow), etc. Here's a good one.. There's a cover (baffle)-plate welded to the underside of the coil-center in the burner chamber.. IF it has burned through (or fallen-off), the fire-flames come-up the center of the coil, allowing the normally ball-shaped fire-ball to become oblong, burning less efficiently. Don't go taking the coil apart, 'til you've checked the easy stuff. Eh? Let us know what you see next.. you'll get lots of help on this forum. By the way,, you'll probably want to go up to a 2.0gph burner nozzle AFTER you prove you have the original problem fixed.

Chris, you bust me up. :) Mark, by the time the "stem seal" leaks, the unloader is about worn out, BUT.. I see you are a bit isolated, so If you have to, pull it apart, replace all the obvious o-rings at the local hydraulics-suply shop, be CAREFUL to adjust it properly, as Chris stated, Click HERE for adjustment instructions . ..but DO get a replacement ASAP

Don't spend more than $99.50 for "soft parts" , and labor.. $49.50 ..at a local service center. We sell a Universal Seal-Puller if you need to do it yourself. e-mail me for more info.. and our free Pump Check-Up list

That series pump is VERY rebuildable.. a seal kit might be all that it needs, but pull the head to see if it needs plungers too ! ..they are $50 bucks each. and check for oil leaks, especially under the head.

good call John, but some systems heat up A LOT faster than others.. the greater the water in the bypass circuit, the longer it takes to overheat the pump's seals. Be sure to keep the gun open when system is running, or idle it down, and still open the gun for at least 5 seconds every minute. Luckily, the unloader isn't built in-to the pump-head, or your seals might already be fried. Ya found yerself a nice one ! call or e-mail for more info. we "specialize in" high-volume bypass.

nice find, and very "rebuildable" with that General pump ...Just add a High-Volume bypass for even better than original reliability. click here for images, e-mail any question. yes, heaters are available too.

I'm always say'in "respect the tech"... All you guys that saved $100. or more on Russ' time.. send him a thank-you note with some cash in it .. his time is valuable, and he is reeally good at what he does ! Respect the Tech.. pay some respect.. he shouldn't have to ask you to call a hotline. Eh?

Sputtering-pressure is a "dead-give-away" there's an air leak. 3/4" feed line is "O.K" for 4gpm, for up to 5 feet from the tank, 1" line is insurance.

Generic schematic diagram of burner circuitry is available. free. ..and did y'all know there's another filter INSIDE the fuel pimp ?? But before you go there, get a fuel pressure guage on the fuel pump, and prove correct fuel pressure. Did the heater smoke before it quit completely ?? is it leaking fuel ?? you should 'autta call. We're glad to help

Chris, running a 2nd feed-line to the 2nd inlet of the pump GREATLY improves the water-supply into the pump... the seals last a LOT longer, and if the pump is direct driven, you will spend a LOT less money trying to keep the shafts from getting damaged between the pump and motor. See our website for Dual-Feed images, and call me for more details

...exactly... Prove flow from the source ..and double-check as you go ! you never want to back-track when you're troubleshooting.. make sure the flow you see it the "right" flow. Hmm.. another idea.. does that Alkota have a K-7 unloader ?? they are "flow-actuated" and a little less that normal flow can give the "suddenly no water" effect. send me images for an end to the down-time.

good call y'all ! do EVERYTHING you can do for the "perfect" water supply, the surge-tank is a MUST, if you go over 4.5gpm (typically) and for over 5gpm add the dual feed lines.. so you get to be productive, instead of Mr Fix-It

Yes Chris, our 30gl tank is now available with a lift-out Leaf-Bag, empty it, and re-use it. ..it came out real nice, and gives another reason to have one of our SandTraps.. it doubles as the Leaf-Trap. Also, I think I have the Extension-Wand figured out.. for less than $200. Will a 1 1/2" capacity be good enough for the bulk of the debris ?? I'll keep you posted. ...thanks for asking. I'll have pictures on our website in the next few days.

3/4" line for tank-feed is a good call for 3.5gpm see plumbing images on my website, call with any question

there's two ways to troubleshoot.. look for what you have, or look for what you don't have.. Prove the water comes out of the pump, or not, by disconnecting the connect hose before the heater. Call me for more.

Uh -Oh.. what are the chances you actually over-filled it without realizing !?? usually, when the oil level is found high.. it also smells like gasoline.. that's real bad.. diluted oil does NOT lubricate as well, the engine runs hot, then can overheat, and even sieze. ALWAYS turn OFF your fuel, when the system is not in use.. the float-valve can over-flow the carb, running down the throat of the engine, around the rings, and into the oil-bath. Another failure, is ignition module overheat, or low-oil-module over-heating. ..not likely this time of year, unless maybe the oil is diluted.

I get this call frequently.. and the most common answer.. The Thermal relief valve was not designed to seal against a vacuum.. As the pump tries to suck water from the water tank.. the thermal sucks air.. IF your bypass line is run to the tank, you can remove the thermal for good. If you usually pressure-feed, and want both options.. put a strip of duct-tape across the thermal's outlet port, as a quick-fix, and go to my website for how to plumb a system with "Alternate-Source Valve" the image to see is marked.. "Tank Feed SCG w/reel" I also have to add.. Usually the working pressure goes down a little, not gone completely.. Whilst yer on the website, look at the big filters, and BIG feed-lines we use.. your pump-seals will last a LOT longer if the pump can never cavitate.. even if it's direct drive. give it the "perfect" water supply. call with any (and every) question.