Jerry

Downstream chemical injectors are super-sensitive to “flow-restriction”.. Rusty fittings, especially rusty hose-ends are really bad. Lots of hose on a reel is flow restriction, The reel swivel is a flow restrictor too. At the inlet of the hose reel is my recommendation too, BUT.. Do it on a quick coupler, so you can remove it when you don’t need it. Or, use the ST61 injector.. it’s the one -size- fits –all (from 2 to about 8gpm), It is adjustable for system-flow, and you can open up the venturi to NOT restrict flow when you don’t need chemical. They are very easy to adjust, and you can leave it on, if you like. Call for details Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogPro Industrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and the VacuBerm

Before attempting an unloader adjustment, of any kind, ever.. Get instructions from your local qualified tech, or just ask me.. I’ll be glad to send ‘em free. J also, NOW is the best time to understand the benefits of.. a "high-volume" bypass line... $20. in parts can save your pump... You can't bank on luck for Long-Term-Low-Cost. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogPro Industrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and the VacuBerm

About Propane systems… If diesel fuel spills, it makes a mess. If propane spills, it wants to EXPLODE ! Before anyone buys ANY piece of equipment.. get to know the qualifications of the technical guys in your own back yards, ...what they think of the available systems, AND WHY... make him SHOW you examples. ...facts and figures, NOT just opinion, or he's just another chemical salesman. use big words like.. reliability, serviceability, versatility, "the perfect water-supply" "high-volume-bypass" and Long-Term-Low-Cost. ...this industry has a responsibility to the equipment users.. free and helpful information, especially safety information. ..that's just a small piece of my experience. ..and the reason I hang around :) Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc.jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogProIndustrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and theVacuBerm

Pressure-feed, going above 4gpm, is an exposure-problem to pump cavitation. Pressure fed systems that have questionable water-supply tend to EAT seals. If you use cold water, and you find you can squeeze the garden hose flat while the gun is open, you can reduce the nozzle size, to reduce the required flow, as long as the unloader valve is adjusted conservastively... CALL A TECH FIRST ! .. especially if your system is a hot machine. Small, mangeable, portable "SurgeTanks" are available too ! to solve these and other water-supply problems. 14, 16, 30, 50 gallon versions, with float-valves, filters, quick couplers, wheels, carry-handles, and so on. call with any question. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogPro Industrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and the VacuBerm

If chemical doesn't draw with nothing connected to the outlet of the injector.. it may be connected backwards, its check valve is stuck, or has too large an oriface to function. if is DOES draw with nothing connected, connect the hose and gun without a nozzle.. if it draws, you need a larger soap nozzle. if it DOESN'T draw, the gun has an obstruction, the hose ends are too corroded, or the injector is an size too big for all that hose. call with any question. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogPro Industrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and the VacuBerm

John Allison (Homer) brings up an important point, so let's get back to the original question... "What is the most gpm pump I can put on a 16 or 18 hp Briggs? " some engines put out less than what they are rated for, as you cannot "get" the expected performance, like the 13hp honda that won't do the 4 @ 4000. But, that 16hp Vanguard can do 5 @ 4000 psi... very nicely. ..so the Vanguard is strong, but there is a sacrifice... heat dissipation, and wear.. The most major change in expectation on the equipment in this industry in the past 25 years, is performance for the dollar.. If you want to get 10 years out of that 16hp Briggs, don't use over 16hp, but you sacrifice potential workspeed... if you can make an additional $10,000. more in the next few years by throwing away an extra $1200 motor, your accountant will tell you, burn it up !... the buyer makes the decision. Take care of your equipment, give it every chance at long-term-low-cost, and if 5 gpm 4000 psi kicks-a$$ on workspeed, set it up. But you'd better do the PM, or you'll be licking your own wounds. I've sold MANY direct drive 16hp 5 @ 4000's. I've also recommended the belt drive versions for lower repair cost, but paying the difference, is still up to the customer. None of us manufactures can make you buy the more expensive version, but I feel we should provide the BEST reliability we can for your investment.. We set 'em up for reliability, and serviceability, but the user lives with the results of his purchase. So, as you choose a combination of GPM and pressure.. You decide how hard you want to push luck. Eh? I recommend, 5 @ 4000, 5.5 @ 3500, 6 @ 3000, 7 @ 2500, or 8 @ 2000 as long as it's plumbed for "the perfect water supply", with a "high-volume bypass", and buy synthetic oil for ALL you engines.. they run cooler. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogPro Industrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and the VacuBerm

Beth, I get the idea, I just dont see the problem in the above post... it's all technical. I speak from the service department, and have an attitude toward helping these guys that have been mis-lead, or ignored by others. But I apologize for mentioning my brands in other threads.. I'll lighten it up, in general, and I'll fix a few of those "hijackings" right now :) Anyway, DirtBuster called.. he's going to try the Admiral Pump he can get from a friend, to go with a 23hp Vanguard, and set it up for 8.2gpm @ 3000 psi on a #9 nozzle = 7.8gpm, that allows the system to bypass a little for unloader reliability, and the engine cruises at a cool 75% of rated Hp. ...And I didn't make a dime for my time, just good will. sorry for the drama. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.netcall 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogProIndustrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and theVacuBerm

Welcome Dirt Buster, you have several questions to get answered, so we have a few for you.. What model HydroTek is it ? How large is your heater.. diameter, and tank length ? which model burner ?? Engine HP ? ... some systems can be upgraded by just changing pulleys, especially with 12 volt heaters,'cuz there's no belt drive generator to contend with. that new 23hp is a loose engine to go with that lose pump, ? talk to me B 4 you order that Legacy... about long-term-low-cost. Did you want more volume for cleaning heavy equipment, or are you trying to clean hard-surfaces faster ?? ... 'cuz going less than 3500 psi makes it MUCH more difficult to get gum off a sidewalk.. in fact, you need to start with 4000 psi, if you need to stretch hoses past 150ft, especially with over 5gpm through a 3/8" hose. want to get reeaally technical ?? .. call me. We’re glad to help . Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.netcall 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogProIndustrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and theVacuBerm

Some engines are a little stronger than others… We like the Vanguard engines for reliability, plus they are strong by comparison to others… We sell more 5gpm 4000 psi pumps for the 16hp engines than any other combination.. They run great, with sweet work-speed… 5 gpm brings great workspeed in rinsing action, without wasting water. Also, 4000 psi is best on gum, and it brings a 21 to 24” surface cleaner “to life”. With a turbo nozzle, graffiti goes away with less chemical. If you spring for the 18hp motor, use the extra for long-term-low-cost.. 5@ 4000 is fine, so let it run a little cooler. The horsepower formula above, is good for gas engines, just remember not all engines “put out” at the same rating… remember that 4@4000 on a Honda 13 that never really put out the 4000 psi !?! Get a pressure gauge rated such that you read the middle-third of the scale for accuracy… Running at 4000 psi, get a 6000 psi gauge. Call for more, we’re glad to help, and have the experience. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogPro Industrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and the VacuBerm

I second the motion by Paul.. 1" feed line with 1" filter, and BYPASS the UNLOADER TO THE TANK !! :) more info on this thread.. http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/tools-equipment-basic-maintenance/5794-pump-choice-2.html Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogPro Industrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and the VacuBerm

Remember, how it's plumbed makes the BIGGEST difference. they need the "perfect water supply", and a high volume bypass. Also, I have seen NO difference in reliability between u-cups and v-packings, but u-cups have more surface area to "force " a seal with the plunger, so theoretically, they should seal better.... I just haven't seen it with my eyes. ...they never get a chance, as the systems are so frequently starved for water. Also, as you're considering a new pump.. ask about pricing on the repair kits... especially the soft parts.. and availability. if the parts are twice the price, of others, don't buy the pump... they all work the same way, and wear out the same way.. I'm back to repeating myself.. the way it's plumbed is paramount, ...affordable parts are next. None of you has asked about ease in rebuildability.. The old General TS series, has been sweet for ease at the rebuild, but those thin plungers and seal retainers crack too easily, and even though the parts cost is competitive, you have to consider the fact that the AR pumps' ceramics seem to be the MOST abuseable. Comet are better than those TS generals too... We don't sell many brass parts nor ceramics for the AR and Comet, and almost never on a Giant pump. AR, Comet, and Giant are ALWAYS less expensive on a bad day than others. Generals eat brass & ceramics, the newer Generals are expensive in parts, Hawk pumps eat rods, and seals, Cat is just SO overpriced on parts, and abuseability, I have no respect for 'em. I can remember putting soft parts in a Cat SF at a year old.. I replumbed it with a high-volume bypass, and it went another 5 years before it needed the next seal kit.. but cost of those seals plus the valves made it less expensive to throw away and replace with an AR... which went 10 years on soft parts only. Udor has been a good pump, I must add, as long as the parts are close by. those Udor Penta-Plex (high-volume) pumps are interesting, but expensive.. It's easier to feed TWO 5gpm pumps than one 10gpm pump, and the cost difference on the system, & parts is enormous... we gladly build dual pump units with the economical AR RKV series... the parts are beefy, and very low cost. ...put that with a Vanguard Diesel, and dual pumps.. Oooh soo sweeet ! ..let me send you pictures. Eh? Hopefully you will target your next questions to a tech, ..and have a pencil ready for parts comparison. Eh? You can't bank on luck... you need real statistical facts and analysis. You need Long-Term-Low-Cost. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogProIndustrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and theVacuBerm

The Gas-in-the-Oil problem boils down to this.. the float valve in the carb of you ATV and your car all have a rubber tip, so they are unaffected by "bouncing" down the road.. Most small engine manufactures use the same carb manufacturers.. Mikuni and Walbro.. both have "saved a penny" on each, eliminating the rubber tip on the valve, making it easy to bleed, and necesary to shut-off the fuel valve when the system is not in use.. So, EVERYthing with a gas engine should HAVE a fuel shut-off, and you should meticulously use it. one more thing.. Paul mentioned the "bad gas issue.. let me spell it out.. Oil Companies are "chemical salesmen"... they've "profitably diluted" our gasoline with alcohol causing several problems.. first, it is lower octane.. remember we used to double the jet-size in the carb on our hot-rods to get 'em to run alcohol ?? AND we used to add a moth-ball or two to a tank of regular gas to increase the octane !?? (this was before catalytic converters for you youngsters.) ...well, that alcohol evaporates faster than ever, from our out-in-the-sun fuel tanks, and that sticky crap build-up that smells like moth-balls is screwing up the carb that sat too many weeks between uses. Also, the worst of it all, you guys using the cheeper gas without stabilizer (or at least fuel conditioner,) are seeing more small engines with "stuck valves" than ever. Glad to help, but I gotta go. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. dba www.PressureWasher.net manufacturer of Sirocco Performance Vacuums, the VacuBerm, and… BullDogPro Industrial Pressure washers the ultimate in reliability call 619-448-8111 e-mail to… info@PressureWasher.net

VERY IMPORTANT !!... Whenever you guys see a problem like this, in a new-guys hands, start with this.. 1. RED-TAG unit, so no one will try to use it when you're not lookin'. 2. SAFETY devices do their jobs... they react when something is wrong... That means something ELSE is wrong. You have to fix that FIRST, and without hurting your self, nor “adding stress” to the system. Go directly back to the operating instructions, and troubleshooting guides that should have been provided with the equipment, even if you got it used.. My website will have that information ready to print our by this weekend. Just call or e-mail info@pressurewasher.net for a free copy. 3. If the relief re-sets itself, at proper system "safety-setting", you've just proven the valve works, well. don't go throwin' it away... Inspect it for corrosion, and make sure the check-ball is stainless, or nylon. ...NEVER settle for one with a rubber ball. Eh? ..they cut, the first time the water rushes past. That’s the one that doesn’t re-seat itself even when it’s new. Right? 4. Before you fire-up any system with a relief issue, see if there is a “troubleshooter” at the local pressure washer service center, and bounce a few symptoms off of him, and make sure what he says makes sence. Then, when you get there, show him some respect by adding a pressure gauge to the order if the system doesn’t already have one... Making it easy for people to help you, is always noticed, and costs you LESS. Eh? and better yet, let him install it for you, showing you his test results... spike-pressure 'n all. 5. Let's itemize possibilities... and there's a lot of ‘em... some include.. a. Unloader-regulator is set too high, and a nozzle is partially clogged. b. Unloader seals are "sticky" and/or damaged from bypass-over-heat issues. c. Somebody just put a new unloader valve on, and didn’t understand adjustment procedures, or worse, connected it wrong…. The bypass has to bypass. Eh? d. The heater could be over-heating. ...especially in Summer months... RED-tag that heater too !.. WHEN- EVER you have flow problems, do NOT turn on the heater, unless it's the 4th of July, and you completely understand the effects of a steam-explosion. Eh? Everybody has their safety glasses on anyway, right ? anyway.. e. Go back to that heater, and make SURE the controls are also working perfectly ! …Heaters cause pump problems too ! …a sticky flow-switch can “change” your day. A pressure switch, shouldn’t even be “allowed” to control a heater, unless it is “to back-up” a flow switch, for better safety, and longer-term-lower-cost. And, be ready to replace that pressure switch every 9 to 12 months… they don’t last nearly as long as flow switches. And remember a pressure switch “allows any old pressure” to turn the heat on… a leaky quick-coupler will cause that ! Back to your test results so far... you have proven the unloader is NOT unloading !! replace it with a good one. Unloders fail for several reasons too. ...so call me. It’s hard to know “everything”. ASK LOTS of questions before you buy your next system ! In a recession, know your friends, know your competitors, know your suppliers, know your equipment, and Focus on “the elimination of weakness” (and self-perpetuating-mistakes) like not buying “cheap”. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. dba www.PressureWasher.net manufacturer of Sirocco Performance Vacuums, the VacuBerm, and… BullDogPro Industrial Pressure Washers the ultimate in reliability call 619-448-8111 e-mail to… info@PressureWasher.net

About unloaders built-in to the pump… The unloader valve is the control-center …and it takes the biggest “beating” of the entire system… All the performance is directed through one valve & seat. Especially in pressure-actuated unloader valves, the water flow is forced through a single thoroughfare, at high-velocity. And if they are not adjusted to bypass about 5 to 10% when the gun is open, they “slam-open and shut” every time you actuate the trigger-gun. Visualize that one real good, and you’ll try to avoid triggering the valve as often, …and that employee that likes to pop the trigger like playing Tommy-Gun, slap his head. Eh? …unless you’re in California, cuz he’ll sue you. Back to the unloader… The unloader sets the “spike-pressure” when you let-go of the trigger, not just the working pressure, so When you set an unloader for MAX-max pressure, you loose the cushioning effect of that 5% bypassing, allowing the unloader to SLAM open and shut for a living… This is why the pressure-actuated unloaders only last 9 to 18 months. Consider 9 to 18 months the most you can get before rebuilding, and they only last half as long rebuilt as they did new, because the plunger-slide-surfaces wear out too. So, that “permanently-lubricated” wobble-plate pump means you ask for cheep, you get cheep. Now that the Mfr’s are building the valve into the heads of the beefier crank-shaft-pumps, And the 6 to 10 year potential just dropped to 18 months, call that an industrial sin. Let me be direct… they are an insult on reliability and long-term-low-cost… We have a “bone yard” of proof at our service center. With a properly adjusted unloader valve, plumbed to bypass back to your holding tank, or at least a high-volume bypass system to avoid bypass overheat issues, you have a chance at reliability, and long-term-low-cost. In all the blog-blurbs I’ve read, I’ve never seen anyone ask “what’s different in” reliable machines. Hmmm, think about the juxtaposition of the economy, and society’s buying habits… The “information age has allowed us the option of buying “really really cheep”… Now that too many things (and people) are broke, “not worth fixing” (like many big businesses), And half of your competitors have their “heads in their hands” cuz all their “crap is broke”, you have the biggest opportunity of the past 30 years… scoop the customers that were lost by people that were NOT reliable, to invest in longer-term-lower-cost, hire employees that will actually carry your flag for you and NOT steal from you, STOP the “self-perpetuating mistakes”, and grow a business “old-school” because it is recession-proof. Just like reliable equipment, and a good tech. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. dba www.PressureWasher.net the ultimate in reliability manufacturer of Sirocco Performance Vacuums, VacuBerm, and… BullDogPro Industrial Pressure washers call 619-448-8111 e-mail to… info@PressureWasher.net

I sure wish I had more time to spend in these blogs... You guys have all kinds of technical questions. Here's the scoop... Reliability in pumps is about the way you plumb the pump... If it gets the "perfect water supply", it can live a long time between water seals. If you have a "bolt-on" unloader valve on a beefy pump, it's still a pile of crap for reliability... it can too easily overheat in bypass. Plumb it with the bypass to your water tank, and every pump can be reliable. The water flowing through the pump carries away heat from the plungers going in 'n out of the seals... if there's only a few ounces of water bypassing back to the inlet of the pump, it will overheat quickly, and scorch the seals in your pump and unloader valve. On ALL the systems we build, you get a "high-volume bypass line" with 30 ounces or more of water bypassing, so you can lay the wand down for a few minutes when you need to... the slower heat-up time also makes the thermal relief valve MUCH more accurate too ! Bypassing back to the tank is obviously MUCH better, as long as you stick with the perfect water-supply rule... feed line for up to 5gpm should be 1" id and no more than 5ft. long. For 6gpm +... do dual feed lines.. that is one to EACH side of the pump. The reliability is huge. As your last set of seals wore out un-evenly, I rest my case. Now back to the pump question... a "Beefy" pump has a big oil bath, big bearings, big crank-shaft, big thick head, and especially beefy rods... The rods are especially critical, because some day, that pump is going to be low on oil, or have a little water mixed in, and aluminum alloy rods DO NOT hold up to the heat like the forged BRONZE rods do. After seeing as many abused bronze rods as we have in our service dept., I'm a FIRM believer on this. Most of the Comet , AR, Giant, and some General pumps have this level of beef. Speaking of ABUSEABLE pumps, Cat, Hotsy-Hawk, and Hypro have been the "wimps" under the abusive load of an overheat, OR over-pressure.... I've seen them blow with nothing wrong but an extra 500 to 600psi over working pressure. On the other hand, I've seen Comet AP and General pumps go through heat and pressure trauma that is simply astounding. Blowing a 6000 psi gauge with a failed unloader on an AR pump rated for 3500, with no damage to the pump, is worth the mention. Eh? We prefer the AR and Comet pumps because they are of the "most abuseable group", and they are lower on the PARTS-price-scale, when you finally need them. Pick your pump for abuseability, plumb it for reliability, and enjoy "long-term-low-cost". Oh yeah.. never mount a pressure-relief valve up-side-down, as it traps debris in it's face, and it should NOT have a rubber-ball against a brass seat.. prefer a Stainless ball, on stainless seat, as they don't attract corrosion like rubber does, and reliability is the point on a BAD day, right?! One last thing... let your unloader valve bypass a trickle for a "cushioning effect" on the seat.. if the unloader "slams-open and closed" every time it actuates, it will wear out prematurely. If the last one had cracks on the valve-faces, I rest my case. I hope this helps Y'all realize a friendly tech has better value than ever in a recession... this is the time you realize the quality you got from "cheep", or delivered by a salesman instead of a true tech. If your local service guy acts more like a tech than an order-taker, show him a little respect... buy local !! You need him to like you, on a bad, or otherwise expensive day ! ...As you guys learn more about reclaim and filtration for re-use, you will rely on technical know-how to get reliability and functionality. ...Just like you have on the pump issues. Eh? A good tech will never waste your time (or money), and a great one, will make you more profitable. Ask a tech MORE often than your competition. Glad to help ! Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. jerry@pressurewasher.net dba PressureWasher.net call 800-400-Clean (2532) 10821 Airport Drive El Cajon, Calif. 92020 office 619-448-8111 manufacturers of… BullDogPro Industrial Water Blasters Sirocco Reclaim Systems, and the VacuBerm

About those flames out the side of your heater... Seal it with ceramic wool and silicone seal, if your local service center has some scraps.. keeping the flames from burning wires is critical. By the way, if that open-flame propane heater is next to a gasoline pressure washer, we need to have a nice long talk about safety and liability issues. Eh? For you guys with diesel fired burners... one of the most common problems causing the "fire comes out the side opening" problem, is running the system low on fuel, or with a partially plugged filter... It causes the fuel to not ignite as easily... Then, as the fuel builds up in the heater bottom, then ignites, you get the billowing black smoke... that's when you're at risk of a fire out the side of your heater (and involing the wandering fuel can). Every diesel fired machine should have a fuel pressure gaue, to monitor the condition of your fuel supply, and fuel pump. The local service center is supposed to know all this stuff. Eh? CAll me with ANY heater problems... we know them well. Jerry McMillen 800-400-2532 jerry@pressurewasher.net mfr. of BullBogPro Industrial Water Blasters, VacuBerm Reclaim tools, and Sirocco Performance Vacuums.

You guys deserve quality answers to the most important question in this industry.. How to make a heater safer, and more reliable. Basically.. Temperature control switches... should be hermetically sealed... rated for wet conditions. Adjustable versions typically seen on PW's are not rated for wet conditions, so they don't last. Especially when they are used to turn on a H.V. igniter, on 12 volts DC. They should be rated for 10 degrees over the temperature you plan on using... IF your heater runs at 200 degr. in the summer time, use a 210. Pressure Relief valves... should be on the inlet side of the heater... If the coil's plugged with scale, the relief needs to react. Eh ? It should NEVER be mounted up-side-down, as it fills with scale, and won't open when it needs to. It should NEVER have less than a stainless steel ball, as the rubber ball version is cut, the first time pressure passes it.. You can't adjust it without destroying it ! A regulating relief valve, like the J.E Adams versions are WAY reliable for years and years. Also, they are WAY more sensitive than a Pop-Off style relief. I just wish I could get Adams to make 4, 5, 6, and 7000 psi versions... somebody will. You should have a relief valve before, AND after a pressure-actuated unloader... to protect the heater AND the pump. Eh ? Flow Switches... are better than pressure switches... We want the heater to go on when there is FLOW, not just trapped pressure. But, the new TMT flow switch seen on the example Silver Eagle system is a device which is a little more difficult to troubleshoot, as a magnet doesn't affect it, and when they fail, they fail in the on position more often than off. I like the ST5 Flow switches best for up to 4000 psi, especially because they are easiest to troubleshoot, and they last for years. Another real important thing to know about pressure and flow switches... they should NEVER be used to turn on a Hi Voltage igniter... The inductive reactance in start-up of the HV draws BIG current, like starting a motor... WAY too many machines are "eating" HV igniters on 12vDC. They require a power relay... An automotive style 40 amp relay will last about 12 to 24 months. The 70 amp version will last 4 to 7 years. You can expect 4 to 5 years of use on a HV igniter. We've proved this, when we did the initial field testing for Beckett before they released them out in the industry... in the early 90's. We wrote the schematic in their Owners' manual that shows the 70 amp control relay. You should also have "the perfect charging system" with BEEFY, CLEAN connections, and a group 51 battery, or larger... NOT a garden tractor battery... they are WAY too wimpy. The 12 volt burners can be very reliable when the above rules are followed. ...and SAFE ! One last thing about the example Silver Eagle system.. Those galvanized fittings on the inlet side of the pump have to go ! ... they are gouing to constrict the flow, and send rust flakes in to the pump valves, and through the system eventually into the trigger-gun valve, or a spray nozzle. Next machine you buy... Ask your local dealer for Long-Term-Low-Cost. Eh ? Glad to help. Jerry McMillen, President www.PressureWasher.net manufacturer of... Sirocco Performance Vacuums and... BullDogPro Water Blasters. call direct… 619-448-8111

When you compare cars, you compare engineering skills "as a system"... they build engines, transmissions, and all the assembly. When you compare pressure wash systems, you compare components and "assembly" as separate issues... If you have a good (beefy) pump (like a A.R., Comet, General, or Giant,) and a quality engine (like the new Subaru) , you must next consider that each pressure washer manufacturer has a "style" of assemby. How pretty it is, ONLY speaks for image... you have to use it, and that must be profitable. Here's my point: First consideration should be major components.. a BEEFY pump is one with forged bronze rods. They are MORE resistant to overheating than aluminum. Don't get stuck with a "wimp" that has "big-words" marketing and insultingly expensive parts. Beyond that, a "high-volume-bypass" system is MOST important... how each system is plumbed is CRITICAL to its abusability... It must be plumbed for abuseability, reliability and servicability, or you don't have more than a "pretty" machine, with a "name-brand" engine, and "heart-ache" levels of downtime. If it's difficult to change the oil, it doesn't get done, and BLAM ! ... out comes the "done button". If you have a pressure switch controlling the heater with a pressure actuated unloader, you get a heater running uncontrolled, with NO FLOW. ...An overheat that can "spew" a coil, and send someone to the hospital in pain. A garden-hose-fed system, with a small leak in a coupling, and a "bolt-on-unloader" can overheat in bypass (with the gun off,) enough to damage seals in just a few minutes... And next the oil seals leak... Low-oil-overheat blasts the rods out of the pump... just because somebody didn't bother to notice a quick-couplier leaking a few days back. If your system has a little "garden-tractor" battery, or wimpy connection to the charging system, it will EAT ignitiors every 6 months. If it has a 12 volt heater system without a beefy control relay for the ignitor, it will eat an ignitor every 3 months. If you have a tank-fed system, you want to be able to say it has a 1" id feed line, for every 4 gpm the pump is supposed to draw from that tank... that's right, 8 gpm pumps should have DUAL feed-lines... one to each side of the head. Compare systems this way.. 1/3 major components, 1/3 how it's plumbed, and 1/3 serviceability. NEVER compare by "brand-name", as the "bean-counters" methodically build cheeper (AKA cheesier)... If the equipment is down all the time, the warranty is an insult. If it's reliable and serviceable, and a real "tech" answers phone calls at the factory, you won't need a serviceman at all. 23 years ago, we began building the ultimate in reliability, ...because YOU, the users, weren't getting answers to the questions "Why did it break, and what did you DO about it (for the money)?" We were convinced we could deliver the BEST in reliability, with a reasonable price, and a "NO B.S." warranty. After looking at the results, we are proud, and selling equipment to profitable, repeat customers... Heater Coils can last 12 to 15 years. H.V.Ignitors can last 4 to 5 years. Voltage regulators can last 4 to 5 years. Control switches can last 5 to 10 years. Water seals can last THOUSANDS of hours. Remember... the service tech that doesn't know what a high-volume-bypass is, is a dumb-ass "parts replacer". ...have you met him ? I am embarrassed for this industry, who's cheesiest manufacturer owns the most expensive race-car... it's an insult. Don't buy their stuff. If you want to buy from one of the top-five... Buy a MiT-M ... they are honorable competiton, as they have a very good reputation for customer service. But, If you want the VERY best, EVER made, buy a BullDogPro. They are "Long-Term-Low-Cost" ...by design. You are also going to need a vacuum reclaim system that works anyway, so call us for both... Cleaning System Specialist Inc., DBA PresureWasher.net is the manufacturer of the BullDogPro line of pressure washers to 7000 psi, the Sirocco Performance Vacuums line of vacuum reclaim equipment, the VacuBerm, and the BEST performing Vacuuming Surface Cleaner in the world... because you asked for it in the service department. Do business with someone that can answer the "technical questions". Call with Q's... 800-400-2532 or E-mail to css@PressureWasher.Net

As Chris and Paul pointed out, these motors don't like getting wet, and the switch is first suspect, but be aware, that upgrade switches are available for better reliability. The guys in the industry's service departments are doing more "bug-proofing" than ever before... Technical input is a critical asset, so "Buy local" whenever you can... He needs to like you when you're down at 4:30PM Friday. They should also know, many new products have come into the market... Some have beefier pump-outs and better filter screens which help keep the moisture from doing damage to that vac motor. Longer-term lower cost is really what you had in mind. Eh? Also a friendly reminder... Respect the GFCI.. The ground fault interrupter isn't present on all vacuums out there... Wet-pick-up is a "new sport"... and it's profitable to see how good we can get at it. Performance IS the point in wash water control, and profitability is about the "work-speed". If the local guy doesn't know all this, give him my number, or web address. www.pressurewasher.net 800-400-2532 Glad to help.