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Jerry

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Posts posted by Jerry

  3. Posted · Report reply

    As you guys are choosing a category here..

    I sincerely hope you are all on this one common page..

    You are "Pollution Control Specialists"..

    Pollution happens,

    ..to every exposed surface,

    .. for every exposure reason,

    .. and if it wasn't there, and accumulating, you would not have a job in ANY category.

    This industry is NOT about "polluting"

    ..it is about the control of pollution.

    Anyone that does not "get" that by now, is a potential polluter, doesn't understand marketing, and doesn't understand "the JobSite"

    As a "JobSite focused" supplier to this industry..

    I guess I would categorize by business as PollutionControl Equipment Specialist.

  7. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    add-in     · Report reply

    I've had the WORST luck and now amazing luck with knee issues..

    tore up ligaments at 16, corrective suirgeries at 21 and 25 went ok,

    "clean-up" at 45 was a disASSter !

    Was confined to a knee brace from that..

    Most of my customers knew me as the guy with the knee brace..

    5 years ago I had "the worst knee they ever saw" replaced with a new "total knee"..

    I gave'em back their crutches on the 10th day, and was hiking agressively within 45 days.

    Call me with any question on this I can and am glad to help.

    Let me start with this:

    If the doctor can explain EXACTly "WHAT" he plans to do,

    in a context you can clearly understand, you have yourself an expert.

    If they don't explain THAT well, or especially if they act like you don't need to know all the details..

    RUN (or at least hobble quickly) to the next opinion.

    Quacks and hacks are the same kind of personallities, no matter what profession you choose from..

    Quacks and hacks are superficial people, that talk big, act covertly, and leave a vapor-trail of half-a$$ed results behind.

    Your BEST chance at finding a "real" expert..

    find the premire group in your area specializing in Sports medicine,

    and ask for the expert in "worst-case knees".

    At 56, I hike with 30 year olds..

    not as far, but just as agressively.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    ..Although I normally agree with Jerry (he's a smart dude), a generator rpm needs to be set according to frequency, not voltage. I have worked on generators that make 114 volts at 60 hz, and others that produce 125 volts at 60 hz. What you want is 61 - 62 hz no load, so the rpm drop under load will get you in the 60 hz range.

    Ya got me there Russ..

    I frequently "simplify my answers" for a given audience, so as to deliver a simpler point.

    Good catch my man !

  10. Posted · Report reply

    ..and just so you know..

    even if a local Kohler service-center wont "admit" it..

    Kohler has an "emergency-repair policy"..

    If it is a critical engine to your health (generator runs air-cond. in the desert.)

    or in your ability "to provide income"..

    they will cover overtime-wages submitted by the service center,

    ..for the rapid elimination of downtime.

    It's been a long time since I've had to submit a claim like that, so check me on this,

    But.. certainly worth"asking about. Eh?

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I was hoping to get an order for a dual-pump 45hp 14gpm-4000psi system with dual heaters..

    But, the guy opted for TWO separate 7gpm 4000 psi diesel-engine systems..

    running 30hp water-cooled 4cyl.diesels @ 3000 rpm to keep noise down.

    I have to like his attitude, he's letting me put a 23hp diesel Vacuum next to it.

    All "teir 4" enviro-friendly, and capable of running crazy-long hoses..

    LOTS of performance on a 16ft trailer. Eh?

    :{)

  13. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    sp.     · Report reply

    the shaft seal is not difficult to change, and would take less time than waiting for a replacement to come.

    the leak could be more than a nussance leak.. it probably won't get worse for a long time, unless the o-ring was damaged on install.

    PLUS..

    I don't see a safety-relief on the head of that pump..

    if that unloader has a cut o-ring, and it gets sticky,

    you could have a very bad day.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    to be specific and clear..

    Belt drive is the opportunity to run the pump at a slower speed,

    allowing easier draw from a water tank without cavitating the system..

    Seals last longer, valves last longer, no heat is being added to the pump from "touching " the motor,

    there's no risk of damaging the motor shaft key-way ..like there is on direct "shaft-to-shaft"-driven pumps..

    EVERYthing is longer-term-lower-cost with belt drive.

    Clutch drive has very limited application in this industry..

    Multi-functional systems, like having a belt drive generator with a belt drive vac-blower,

    ..and a pump, all on one engine-system..

    You might want to "turn off" the pump, when you're just using the vac to suck-up a flood,

    or to run the pump when you don't need the vac, etc.

    With clutch drive, you would NEVER want to turn on the clutch while the engine is at high speed..

    ..it will tear-up the clutch very quickly, and why ?

    ..cuz you wouldn't reduce the engine speed long enough to "easy-start" the clutch ?

    I've offered the clutch on our BullDogPro Pressure washers for 30 years,

    and the only buyers were carpet & flood people.

    Belt drive is King.

    Simple and sweet.

    Call me for more detail.. I'll keep you from wasting money and/or time.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    as the electrodes are worn, the tips erode, and that opens the gap.

    Also, "bouncing down the road" month after month takes it's toll on adjustments.

    If you compare these machines to be more like an off-road race car..

    you'll undersatand reliability and abuseability better..

    ..you don't get to plug it in and forget about it, like a refridgerator.

    Adjust the electrodes,

    and don't bank on luck

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Andy,

    hesitation to ignite can be as simple as too much air "blowing out" the spark.

    ..or.. The electrodes set at Beckett or Wayne.. for a home heating system,

    NOT a pressure washer heater.. They have different burner chambers,

    and most pressure washer manufacturers don't change from the factory setting.

    go to my website for the adjustment that make ignition more reliable..

    click here, and scroll down to the electrode diagram.

    call with any other question :{)

  18. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    sp     · Report reply

    O.K.. unloader "fluctuation" is caused by the flow-actuated unloader..

    If the bypassing water isn't enough in volume to keep the valve inthe bypass mode..

    it kicks down to the pressure-mode.

    What changed ??..

    Either you pump's output has dropped, or..

    The flow-restriction of your bypass line "helped it stay in bypass"..

    Now that you've relieved the flow-restriction.. you need to put back just a little..

    Changing the bypass-oriface is what the factory wants you to do, or..

    you could use a smaller hose for the bypass back to your tank,

    or, drop a stainless steel flat-washer between the bypass-nipple and teh hose-barb..

    the little bit of added flow restriction keeps it in bypass !

    To double-check this is all you need..

    squeeze the bypass line with a pair of pliers, and if the restriction settles id down, you have a plan !

    BTW..

    if you still have the bypass line running to the inlet side of the pump..

    change it..

    having it bypass to the tank eliminates the possibility of a bypass overheat.

    Also, it makes theh system easier to troubleshoot.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Your inlet plumbing is horrible too. Always use brass, plastic, or stainless fittings for the inlet...no galvanized or black iron. Those 2 tees also give you the equivalent of 2 elbows too. I'd take the suction line off where it is and straight hose barb it into the opposite side of the pump head.

    Ditto..

    replumb the entite inlet side of your pump.

    even if the rusting steel flow restrictors wasn't going to be an issue..

    the "suspended weight" against the inlet of the pump will be a broken fitting starving the pump for water after bouncing down the freeway.

    Start over..

    brass fittings AT the inlet s of the pump.. DUAL inlets, and flexible reinforced hose "lazy-looping" to the filter (with No stressed fittings).

    ot 5gpm.. use 1" feed line, not more than 4 feet long, split into a 3/4" line to the 2nd inlet.

    Filter should have 1" in n out threads, with a 5 or 10" cleanable screen.

    Russ can set you up.. He's a GREAT technical-supplier, and he jumped in here to help you first..

    *** support the technical suppliers in this forum ***

    :{)

  21. Posted · Report reply

    7 times more expensive to a total additional cost of 35 cents.. ..saving you 15 to 45 minutes, and frustration..

    whilst the customer watches you fumble through a rusty tool box..

    Hmmm..

    Viton is not only higher-temp-rated, it is more abrasion resistant !

    About the Twist-Fast couplers..

    I like 'em, they ARE more reliable,

    I should recommend 'em more often, ..certainly on 4000psi+ and 200degr.F+ systems

    I will add that point to my Pressure Washer "Bullet-Proofing" class.

    :{)

  25. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    add-in     · Report reply

    If you don't get a reply from Jerry at Sirocco..

    Chris, you made me laugh. :{p

    ..but yes, I can help here..

    Placement of the switch is just as important as the type of switch used,

    and if you guys want to e-mail me, I'll quickly show you how to do this.

    I can supply a kit, with schematic, and instructions.

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