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Jerry

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Posts posted by Jerry

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Daaammm Scott, you one smart cleaner ! ..

    most techs never figure that one out !!

    ..You nailed the reason the metal is affected in the pumps,

    but that also explains the problem in the heater coils..

    the purified water cleans the rust off the inside of the coil, allowing the steel to rust faster than normal.

    .. I rescued a chain of rental yards that had been "sold on" using Soft Water to feed their pressure washers,

    and de-I for rinsing.. those heater coils were lasting only 2 to 3 years..

    What really apalled me, was realizing that manufacturer was delivering schedule 40 coils in those machines too !

    ..What a scam !!

    that happened in 1986

    That incident made me REALLY try to stand-out as different from the "typical" supplier.

    While I'm on the subject..

    many "service centers" promote descaling the coil every year..

    I promote "limited hard-water scale"..

    If you clean the coil, it will rust faster.. I don't condone that as a method of marketing.

    If you allow a limited amount of calcium to "coat" the inside of the coil, it keeps the water off the steel, and prolongs the life of the coil.

    Of course, if there's too much, the coil is blocked, and you loose pressure.

    You can monitor the scale, by occasionally looking inside the fitting on the outlet side of the coil..

    If you see light scale, and NO rust, you're good.

    if you see rust, do a descale, then circulate a cheep soap through the coil, to form a protective layer.

    ..and NEVER use purified water through your coil..

    put a Quick coupler between the unloader and heater,

    .. so you can pump out rinse water before the heater.

    Better yet, use ball valves.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Jerry,

    So, do you think a 55 gallon drum would work, I was thinking of laying it on the side,

    .. but if I need the head pressure with it standing up that's what i'll do.

    Also when you mention dual fed do you meen feeding the pump from both inlet sides at the same time?

    If so would that help if I did use a shorter drum/tank?

    I would use a skinnier drum if it's just a buffer-tank.

    If you want to do quick demos out of it, get the 55.

    Either way.. stand it up for head-pressure.

    With less head pressure.. yes, dual feed the pump..

    it's so easy, and the parts are SO inexpensive, just do it..

    call it "trying" ..to increase your luck.

    About that pressure switch..

    it looks real old,

    they normally only last a year,

    they are inexpensive (like dual-pump-plumbing),

    upgrading to a "Flow-Switch" would be even better,

    and yes, these will increase your "luck".

    ..and ditto Russ on the filter..

    most people find out too late that green-cap thing is a filter..

    it's made from zinc and corrodes crazy-fast !

    There's also a Blue-cap version, made from aluminum..

    Bean-counters make stuff that fails too fast..

    they think you are dumb enough to buy for price only.

    Like Russ said..

    stick with brass.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I picked up a portable mi-t-m 3504 hot water pw for a good deal.

    I would like to mount this on a trailer with a buffer/float tank. .. ..

    .. .. I will be using a small buffer tank (50-70 gallons).. .. Any help would be appriciated.

    Choose a tall tank, to maintain good water-feed to the head of the pump.

    the easier the pump gets water, the longer the seals last (especially with a "high-speed" pump,)

    and you also benefit from it having a small footprint.

    we have a 44gl tank with 14 x 26" footprint. and there are float valves work fine

    ..as they bounce down the road.

    you don't have to dual feed a 4gpm pump, but use at least 1" feed line,

    with no "flow restricting" fittings.

  5. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    sp.     · Report reply

    ..wow.. no suggestions after 3 days !??

    How about sandblating with FINE-grit.. like #30 or 40 grit ?? ..walnut shells ??

    I don't do the cleaning, but..

    it seems that burnt plastic. would "shatter like glass" with a dry-ice blater ??

    Don't use heat, as plastic gets stickier as it gets softer.

    and don't use solvent, or the stain would be horrible.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    bad gas is causing all kinds of problems in small engines..

    they are feeding us the WORST gasoline ever..

    Up to 20% alcohol means you don't get the mileage you should,

    your fuel lines are leaching,

    and sitting for a month or 2 leaves residues in the carb that cause the effect you described.

    ALWAYS shut-off gravity-fed fuel systems when not running.

    Low Oil can give the same effect,

    over heating from bad ventillation, or OLD DIRTY oil can do it.

    an ignition coil that overheats can do that,

    a bad gas-cap on a pressurized system like they require in California. (aren't we blessed.)

    ..and you're far away from Calif.. it's not that.

    I know.. the air filter to soot-up,

    and fouled the spark plug.

    Usually I'm kinda fast at troubleshooting..

    did I get it yet ??

  9. Posted · Report reply

    just be careful of "suspended weight" on the fittings,

    and the "length of the lever"..

    Using a forged steel "hex nipple" is substantially beefier to the "suspended weight".

    Don't cut corners on abuseability,

    NEVERY use brass fittings foe suspended weight like an unloader.

    and you don't have to worry about reliability. Eh?

    Your local service center is "supposed to" be able to answer these questions for you.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Directly, that question is about "Long-Term-Low-Cost"..

    If you give the pump "the perfect water supply"

    take meticulous care of them both..

    Let's say the General-Gr-pump or eqivalent AR, Comet, Udor, or Giant

    gear-reduction pump..

    can go 15 years, on 3 or 4 rebuilds.

    A direct drive "beefy-version" like the RKV, or a Comet FWD version..

    would go 2 rebuilds and total replacement every 5 years.

    so.. $200 dollars more, gets you TWICE the reliability, BUT..

    add that 2nd Direct-drive pump cost every 5 years,

    and the lost account for "lack-of" reliability,

    "The service-records" show.. the one that is WAY better..

    the Low-speed pump, gear reduced, or belt drive.

    ..and the belt drive runs cooler.. even better.

    choose good tools, keep them well maintained, and profitable.

    I am RELENTLOUS at teaching at the sales-counter..

    Long-Term-Low-Cost.

    .it's all math, and tracking, for statistics.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    If you just bought it.. take it back..

    the unloader is not replaceable,

    if you'r stuck with it, don't tank-feed it without removing the thermal relief,

    because it will suck air, immediately (within a few months) damaging the seals, unloader, etc.

    ..and you can never lay the gun down for more than 2 minutes.

    ..its called "bypass overheat".

    get a pump with a separate unloader.. always.

  15. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    font size     · Report reply

    Here's the latest direct from the US Air-Base 180 miles south of the reactors..

    "Number 1 and 3 are cooling down - with sea water. Number 2 is having some containment problems. They have water in the containment but they are having troubles covering all of the rods. Number 4 reactor which was down for maintenance but their spent fuel rod containment area was damaged. They are trying to figure how to get water to the containment pool. The reactors were not as "hot" as if they were fully powered up. The news reported that one good thing is the reactors were turned off automatically during the earthquake. It was the tsunami which destroyed their power generators so they have no power to cool the reactors.

    I guess they are doing everything manually."

  16. Posted · Report reply

    My brother-in-law George has been teaching children of US servicemen

    on US military bases in Japan for about 10 years.

    George was promoted to Administrator and family moved just 6 months ago

    from close to Sendai, to half way between there and Tokyo..

    they and their things are fine, and locating all the school kids

    that were on their way home from school at the time was a "scary",

    and that went well, but..

    If those nuclear power-plants continue exploding and melting down,

    and the wind is blowing the wrong way, they will be evacuated by the US Military.

    .. as he's on the Yakota Air-Base.

    I guess nobody from his school was hurt,

    but many thousands of people to the north are without homes, roads, food, water and family.

    I sent my 14 year-old daughter there to visit her 18 year-old cousin for Christmas and NewYears'..

    ..and I was nervous about earthquakes the whole time she was there.

    How's that for an anticipating gut-feeling ?

    ..that place shakes ALL the time.

    Anyway we have lots of Americans and friends there

    Keep them all in your prayers for health and safety.

    this ordeal is FAR from over. :(

  18. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    add-in     · Report reply

    Downstream chemical injectors are super-sensitive to “flow-restriction”..

    rusty fittings, especially rusty hose-ends are really bad.

    The heater iis flow restriction, Lots of hose on a reel is,

    The reel swivel is a flow restrictor too.

    Installing your injector of choice at the inlet of the hose reel would work fine, BUT..

    Do it on a quick coupler, so you can remove it when you don’t need it.

    Or, use the ST61 injector.. it’s the one -size- fits –all (from 2 to about 8gpm),

    It is adjustable for system-flow, and you can open up the venturi

    to NOT restrict flow when you don’t need chemical,

    and they work at any flow-rate, with any hose length, before, or after your heater.

    They are very easy to adjust, and you can leave it on, if you like.

    I think DEMA will have larger ones too, but the ST series is VERY affordable.

    Call one of the parts dealers about that. :)

  21. Posted · Report reply

    ...not in a LONG time..

    My heaters draw the LEAST POSSIBLE current,

    and I use STRONG 16 to 20 amp charging systems,

    so you have more adjustability with our systems than others.

    I find most often,

    We run several engine starting systems off a single BIG battery,

    with only 1 charging system attached..

    the other charging systems are ready for a quick-connect IF needed..

    just plug in the fuse.

    That said,

    2 charging systems would be the Ultimate in reliability,

    so.. I think I'll build a beefy-water-proof version for our product line, and Y'all

  22. Posted · Report reply

    For the guys that buy our larger Vacuums..

    you can connect multiple charging systems together to solve thses problems..

    The charging system of the vac isn't doing much, so add charge-power to the heater circuit,

    and you can play with engine-speeds on both,

    ..and still have reliable batteries, and heater !

    Trailer and RV-repair centers know all about how..

    it just takes a few rectifiers. :)

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Nigel, you do make people think,

    and hopefully your attention to the details gets more people to DEAL WITH the details. Eh?

    about 27 years ago I saw a "home made" system with dual 6gpm pumps..

    the guy had it on a Volkswagon engine, with the transmission intact,

    so he could change the pump RPM

    as you suggested.

    I'm thinking a over-drive gear box like www.GearVendors.com makes would be cool,

    just expensive for the benefits..

    I'd rather spend more money on Hp,

    and adjustable speed.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    :lolsign:Ha HAA HA Ha haa

    you "scientists" are so predictable.

    Nigel,

    I use my formula as a quick reference..

    air temp, altitude, etc.. ALL weigh in..

    I just don't waste my time with trivialities, when the "real-world test"

    is at the bottom line.

    Also,

    I don't consider the GC series "worthy horsepower" to begin with..

    don't expect more than 70% from them.

    ..and 100 hours.

    I KNEW I could get an INSTANTaneous response from Nigel..

    You make me laugh.

    Just hope that when I get a chance to look in your parts-bin,

    I see synthetic oils. Eh?

    Go clean something..

    ..and at not more than 75.0000000 % .. of rated Hp.

    Now I won't be able to get that song out of my head.. .."Weird Science"

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Right on Matt.

    ..and for a simple-beefy pump system (without going belt drive)..

    AR's 5.5 @4000 with gear reduction would be cool,

    ..if you want, you have the Hp.

    5.5gpm x 4000 psi x .0007 = 15.4 HpCont.

    15.4 / 20HpInt = 77% ..that's perfect. (80% is "MAX-MAX")

    ..just plumb it for reliability, and blast like #$!

    Call Russ Johnson.. tell him I sent you. :)

    actually, he's got family to be with this week..

    send him an e-mail, and give him time to respond.

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