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Jerry

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Posts posted by Jerry

  2. Posted · Report reply

    ..another note on running a chem injector before a hose reel..

    the smaller the swivel, the worse the flow-restriction, but..

    the crimped-on-ends of a older hose can be rusted almost shut

    "when you're not looking"..

    So,

    if your hose is more than a year old, ream out the rust from the ends once in a while,

    or have the ends replaced,

    ..so you can enjoy the workspeed you are already paying for in Horsepower & fuel.

  4. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    sp. & link & image     · Report reply

    a Short story..

    I drove a SuperBee in high school.. ..What a ride !

    ..Then Honda came out with the ATC.. and fell in love with OFF-roading..

    I got a Chevy minitruck, put a 250hp water-injected V-6 in it,

    ..and race-buddies showed me "suspension"..

    High-speed rated, 6-ply tires, a little oversize too.. helps with load-capacity and SAFETY.

    Then I wanted it to "perform with a load on it's back"..

    I took it to a "springs-specialist".. (the Truck-Bodies biz and Off-Roaders know these guys !)

    I told 'em .. "make it handle like it's empty, with 700lb in the bed."

    He added 3 medium-duty leaf-springs, I added Gas-Charged and over-sized shocks,

    and stainless-Steel torsion-bars in the front, and WOW ! that truck was fun.

    That was the most stable vehicle I had ever driven, especially fast.

    and I drove it a hard 200k miles without breaking it.

    Your don't need (nor want) to "jack-up" a Mule..

    Tell the spring-man "only one more inch up, with average load" on its back,

    and what it will need to manage in Max load.. (..aka Full of water.)

    Our service center will not install larger than a 220gl tank in a 3/4 ton van.

    We use 3/8" hardened eye-bolts,

    and we recommend "truck-rated" tires

    ..6 ply rated.

    nuf said ..on that.

    Here's a system we did for drain-jetting.. 150gl tank and 23hp blaster wasn't much to handle on this kind of van..

    post-4266-137772369307_thumb.jpg

    another note on the ATC..

    In 1973 I coated that frame with "rust converter' ..the stuff sold by Gemplers..

    I still have that ATC on it's original frame, and yes, I have ridden it at the beach.

    For cheap Rust-Proofing-coating on steel ANYthing.. RustConverter is AMAZing !

    post-4266-137772369265_thumb.jpg

    post-4266-13777236936_thumb.jpg

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Downstream chemical injectors are super-sensitive to “flow-restriction”..

    Rusty fittings, especially rusty hose-ends are really bad.

    Lots of hose on a reel is flow restriction,

    The reel swivel is a flow restrictor too.

    At the inlet of the hose reel is my recommendation too, BUT..

    Do it on a quick coupler, so you can remove it when you don’t need it.

    Or, use the ST61 injector..

    it’s the one -size- fits –all (from 2 to about 8gpm),

    It is adjustable for system-flow, and you can open up the venturi

    to NOT restrict flow when you don’t need chemical.

    They are very easy to adjust, and you can leave it on, if you like.

    Call for details

  8. Posted · Edited by Jerry · Report reply

    Scott..

    you one sharp guy !..

    the men with larger-flow machines..

    have the luxury of more nozzles in the deck..

    Hell yeah with the two-down, two at 15 degrees !

    I would think that for the guy with one 30" surface cleaner,

    on a 9gpm system.. use 3 or 4ea. 15 degree spray nozzles and walk REAL fast.

    Nigel,

    wider spray angle = faster path without swirls.

    More pressure,

    ..or more temp,

    ..or more heat = better clean

    more flow = faster path

    ..to a point of increased difficulty to reclaim :)

    if you are going to "sacrafice" swivels..

    do it with more heat and/or more pressure.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    "carriage-bolts" are only grade 3 in strength..

    standard bolts are grade 5

    We use grade 8 EXCLUSIVELY on heaters,

    Water tanks, pressure washers, and anything else that's heavy.

    and.. use big, beefy flat-washers under "wimpy" flooring.. 100gl water weighs "mega-tons" at 50mph at a sudden stop.

    D-rings are tough, but use grade 8 bolts for "shear-strenght" you're sure to need, on a "difficult day"

    Surveying the aftermath of a water-tank having squished your employee when he slams into the back of a soccer-mom whilst texting his homie,

    sounds like a really bad day to me. eh?

    Use the BIGGEST bolts that will fit,

    spend the extra dollar on grade 8,

    and you won't have to blame the dork for killing himself, ..in front of a judge.

    The ONLY path to strength, is the ELIMINATION of "weakness"

    ..Spend wisely. Eh?

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Another reason NOT to buy a NorthStar..

    their coils are TINY, and inefficient.

    and about the pumps..

    for Tank-Feed.. stick with pumps that have 3/4" INLETS..

    they are easier to feed with water, making seals last longer.

    If you can't afford the combination you need for "Long-Term-Low-Cost"..

    buy a (beefy) pump system, then when you can afford it, add a (beefy) heater, etc.

    ALWAYS buy for Long-Term-Low-Cost,

    or your competition will get your contract customers anyway.

    ..plan for NO downtime, and a bad day doesn't go into bad weeks. Eh?

  14. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    terminology     · Report reply

    Your first thought should be convenience for workspeed,

    so plan for serviceability too,

    ..and bad days won't be as time consuming.

    Belt tenstioning, pump and burner access, .. not just fuel fill access.

    Give the engines LOTS of fresh-cool air to breathe,

    easy access to oil changes, battery cables and wiring.

    Add an apropriate Wash Water Control system. :)

    Make sure balance is safe, full as well as empty.

    Next, shift accordingly to acommodate your tools, and supplies.

    Now start over again to make sure you didn't miss anything,

    and about that ReClaim equipment..

    Make sure it is a productive part of your marketing program.

    Seriously.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Diesel burner fuel pumps are amazingly capable of drawing fuel.. 36" horizontal is nothing. 36" vertical should be O.K.

    ..just be aware, that ANY extra load on a 12 volt DC system will INcrease power drawn against the charging system.

    Y'all want reliability.. ..eliminate weakness, and ensure strength.

    And before you buy from Northern, check with the hard-working suppliers on this blog..

    We are here to help, but NOT to work for free.. we are "earning" your phone calls.

    Besides that, we have everything to gain, in being competitive.

    Call your favorite tech, and ask him to compete in prices of parts and accessories..

    Give him a chance, but don't ask him to work for free. Inventory is expensive. Eh?

  18. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    sp.     · Report reply

    The Giant #22654A would have been a better fit,

    as it would allow the 4000 psi you were looking for, but..

    You should be using a #4.5 spray nozzle to get 4gpm@3500psi to get

    the K-7 to do it's rated 3500psi ..IF you match the K-7 outlet oriface

    ..to the flow which allows it to actuate when the gun is opened..

    If you have "flow-restrictions" after the unloader,

    like over 75 ft of HP hose attached, a down-stream chemical injector,

    or "unusual back-pressure" in the heater-coil (like scale build-up),

    ..you might need to put a #O outlet oriface in it,

    ..to "recognize" you have opened the trigger-gun.

    To prove this is the issue, take a pair of pliers to the bypass hose,

    squeezing off the flow a little..

    This forces more water out the outlet when the trigger-gun is open,

    thus forcing the valve to actuate.

    ..Just don't force the bypass hose to blow-out. Eh?

    If this sounds like a pain in the schedule, Know this..

    The Flow-actuated unloaders work the BEST, in several ways.

    Once you get it adjusted, it can last MANY years,

    with a LOT less stress on your system.

    Respect the tech.. you need one occasionally.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    more details, and enticements...

    when we tested the first 12" version Vacuuming Surface Cleaner..

    I found my techs all "big-eyed" as it was overcoming a 4.8 gpm pressure washer

    @3000psi with a little 90cfm vacuum !! With NO over-spray !

    That means you should be able to use it at 3.5 to 4 gpm with a big ShopVac !

    ..It is amazingly efficient.

    And the bigger the vac, the more you'll be glad it has wheels.

    If a Vacuuming Surface Cleaner would be a profitable tool for your biz..

    Everyone that gets their name in the hat will get a $100. rebate

    on ANY of our Vacuuming surface cleaners purchased by August 31st

    even on purchases made through our dealer network !

    So... even if you don't win the "freebie",

    you can get a FAT discount, on a very cool tool,

    which will pay for itself month after month, after month !

    AND.. anyone that buys one before Aug 1st gets FREE FREIGHT TOO !!

    So... sign up now !

    happydance.gif

  20. Posted · Edited by Jerry
    add-ins     · Report reply

    The common unloaders only last half as long on the rebuild as original..

    Spending half the replacement-cost to do it, makes that all guesswork on reliability.

    If you want reliability, replacement is the rule,

    ..and a spare on hand is certainly wise. Eh?

    Few unloaders are "worth" rebuilding..

    K7 is my favorite for rebuildabiliy, the AL609 is good, Giant 22913 is great.

    You have to spend more to get these, but your business IS an investment, right??

    "Get over" buying cheap, and you can enjoy "Long-Term-Low-Cost".

    I will say this about pressure actuated unloaders..

    the first failure, is usually the outlet check valve.. and an easy fix..

    It hides inside the outlet fitting of the unloader, and has an o-ring on it.

    In order for the unloader to unload, the outlet check valve has to trap pressure..

    That's why ANY leak in the high-pressure side of the system

    makes your unloader "cycle".. which is very hard on the system, and dangerous

    if you have a pressure switch (instead of a Flow switch) controlling your heater.

    The very FIRST time you notice your pressure "cycling" with the gun off,

    check that o-ring, and make sure the valve can work properly..

    You may be extending its life by MANY months.

    Another reminder..

    the first rule of pumps ..is give it the "perfect" water supply.

    The 2nd rule, is NO LEAKS anywhere, any time..

    No dripps on the inlet side, NO drips at the connect hoses, or hi-psi fittings,

    NO bleeding out the gun,

    NO leaking hose reel swivels.

    ..and back to the "better" unloaders..

    FLOW-actuated versions are NOT affected (nearly as much) by leaks.

    FLOW-actuated versions don't have an outlet check valve to fail.

    FLOW-actuated versions are BEST. period.

    I'm just disappointed the control manufacturers don't make 'em for 4000psi

    over 4gpm, ..with an affordable price.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    This is why I keep saying.. "respect the tech"..

    you need the tech to show you the "tricks of the trade"..

    You won't get them for free, but you will benefit from the knowledge,

    and you'll be able to stay focussed on "cleaning for profit"

    Find a tech that "talks alot" about technical details,

    and pay him for his time.

    Your weakest competitor is one that "guesses" though his work.

    your strongest competitor has a working relationship with at least 1 technical guy.

    ..and he probably goes to the roundtable meetings. Eh?

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Reliability in unloaders and pumps is about the way you plumb the pump...

    If it gets the "perfect water supply", it can live a long time between water seals. If you have a "bolt-on" unloader valve on a beefy pump, it's still a pile of crap for reliability... it can too easily overheat in bypass. Plumb it with the bypass to your water tank, and every pump can be reliable. the water flowing through the pump carries away heat from the plungers going in 'n out of the seals... if there's only a few ounces of water bypassing back to the inlet of the pump, it will overheat quickly, and scorch the seals in your pump and unloader valve. If the system is ONLY going to be "pressure-fed", get a "high-volume bypass line" (we use a 5/8" x 60" hose) with 30 ounces or more of water bypassing, so you can lay the wand down for a few minutes when you need to... the slower heat-up time also makes the thermal relief valve MUCH more accurate too !

    Also.. NEVER adjust your unloader without a pressure guage.

    e-mail me for a free copy of our "Unloader Install and Adjustment Guide".

  25. Posted · Report reply

    P.S. I think VERY highly of Southside-Russ,

    the Hinderlighters, the EnviroSpec crew,

    and any other team that will deliver BEEF, PLUMBED correctly,

    and back it up with real-world technical help..

    before, during, AND after the "sale".

    Several of my dealers are doing a very good job with this too..

    you NEED it, you DESERVE it, but you might have to specify it a little. Eh ?

    Respect the "Tech".

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