Timo

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Yes, you could. But if it were me, I'd get a bigger aux battery, and then get another big aux battery and tie those two together sitting side by side. Then I would change the lights out to led. We use group 31 big truck batteries.

Are you using a proper surfactant? Are you using only that amount of SH blended with water to the proper dilutions needed to kill the algae in say, twelve minutes or so? We flush the gutters a bit into the downspout bags. Somebody else does the roof rinsing later. Do you have tarps for the un-guttered drip line? Keep them wet, but not too long in one place. Are you using a proper surfactant and only applying the minimum amount of hypo needed to do the job, and no more? (I see a pattern developing here). Minimize mix strength. Optimize surfactant. Apply judiciously.

I wrote a reply this morning and then deleted it before posting because; 1., Yes, improper pressure washing will remove too much sand from paver cracks, 2., No. You are going to lose your ass on the cleaning, no use to get it chapped too. 3., $250.00 labor plus materials. Is Krete-Seal what the paver manufacturer recommends? 4., He's not waiting for you to give him a slice of future cleaning pie, he's trying to figure out if you know enough about cleaning to not embarrass him if he recommends you to a client in the future. 5., I care. I want to help. There is just so little to work with here. 6., Pass on the sealing job.

Gutter stains are typically not "on" the gutter, but usually oxidized into the finish. The only way that we have found that works is to use Bob's gutter cleaner to lighten the stains. We've gotten good enough at removing the finish using a car wash brush, I can't imagine what a ScotchBrite pad would do.

The rail system is usually three feet high. It typically has two sides. And then there is the band board. It all adds up to seven. If anyone were to argue that there's not really seven square feet there (no one will), I would suggest that a solid surface of that dimension would be easier to deal with than all of those planes. So maybe just figure it as seven "units" to avoid the discussion of surface area. Edit to add: The last deck I cleaned was done with a surface cleaner, I was speaking to the math equation above, not speaking as a wood guy.

No disaster here. We were with out power for fourteen hours but we had this[ATTACH]19392[/ATTACH] Helping create this [ATTACH]19393[/ATTACH] iPhone - Tapatalk

A one dollar bottle of baby shampoo from your favorite dollar store would probably work in a pinch. Leave the bleach out though, and nothing works, It sounds like your mix was a little strong if it only took two minutes to kill the funk. Almost any surfactant will work to some degree in roof mix.

You're not soft washing roofs. :) You are performing a non-pressure detergent application. My Impala is every bit as good as my wifes Deville. At least on paper. Don't sweat the friction loss and pump strain. Just ALWAYS have a spare pump. If you find yourself replacing the pump too often, then perhaps consider a shorter hose. And a smaller pickup tube.

Sounds like you're all set for roof cleaning. Rarely do we see the need for more than the 200' of hose that we have on our roof hose real. You say soft wash. Does that mean that you plan to wash a lot of dryvit or other surfaces that is/are difficult to clean by down streaming? Or are you really just referring to roof cleaning? I'm not familiar with an everflo pump but if it's anything like the fatboy, you'll do fine.

That doesn't look like it is on the deck, that looks like it is the deck. Viewing on a phone, it appears to be bleached out fuzzy wood fibers. iPhone - Tapatalk

They may have had a contractor, but I doubt that they had a builder. There is a difference. I would expect that you'll be able to make it beautiful for short periods of time, followed by you doing it over. Then they'll get tired of that routine and start all over with a new deck Do what you can and suggest to them that future decks of success will involve the man who maintains them, hopefully at the design stage.

Hey Charlie, your watermarks are not showing up.

I respectfully suggest that perhaps your education in house wax is not yet complete. Sort of like me and long jumping. I saw a guy on TV that tried to jump over a pole and he couldn't make it. That must prove that it can't be done.

Using an 8gpm, we show up with 300 gallons on board and even with low flow faucets, we can get a lot done before we run out of water.

As far as upsells go, I would much rather just go wash a house and then go wash another one somewhere else. It's true that you can make more money if you pile your plate higher, but it can take too long when you get bogged down in too many services.

Russ Johnson is the supplier of choice. Downstream. We don't try to upsell but we do offer an upgraded "protectant" package that includes gutter scrub and wax application for the more discerning client. You know, the one that has put it off too long and feels guilty, like they can somehow make it up to their house by spending extra money. Or the person that really wants to go that extra mile and have their house given a bit more attention. Or the person that wants their house to stay cleaner longer. We don't push it. We inform most customers that we have the higher level of service but let them decide if it fits their needs.

Gutters are a pain in the neck.. We do not measure downspouts - they get washed with the house. The last gutters that we cleaned were quoted at $1.25 per story foot. For the inside. Add $1.25 per lineal foot to remove and replace gutter guards. We only offer it as an add on service. Gutter whitening - included in our upgraded house wash package. See above for pricing. I never understood who picked a $1.00 per foot and because I'm old and slow, I'd go broke at those prices. P.S. I work for relatively few landlords - just sayin'.

I apply soap at eight gallons per minute while my son removes it and the dirt with ten gallons per minute so I really can't speak with authority on the smaller unit. I do believe that it takes pressure to launch water and volume to lift it it so if the sprayer your'e looking at reaches the peaks, it will just take longer to rinse. The other guy may have been referring to a Super Suds Sucker. See what google tells you about that.

Do a search for RickDel's questions and answers on this board. Sent from the itPhone using Tapatalk

1. Yes, assuming that the quick connects are the same style. 2. Barely adequate perhaps. Decent?, doubtful. But it will be faster than a water hose in most cases. And for most guys, anything that makes noise is entertaining. 3. Not at all. Assuming of course that you rinse after washing.

Start with 5.5 gpm @ 1,500 psi or 3,500 psi. The psi doesn't matter. Get cold. Are you serious about this gig? Then get an 8gpm/3k psi. Cold is Gold for residential. Learn how to mix bleach with soap and downstream it. Get a 100 gallon buffer tank. Leave your stuff on the trailer. Spend one half of your current time on the job. Double your prices. Fill out your signature. Get a bigger trailer. Get bigger equipment. Learn what the manufacturer says about washing roofs. Let mom nature rinse them.

Hot water with a surface cleaner usually suffices for a pool deck around here. You could downstream a bit of bleach first if it's moldy.

1. Until it wears out, clogs, breaks a spring, or craps out otherwise. Always have a spare and don't worry about it. 2. My'alls recommendation is to put it after the pump, before the real, on the trailer. 3. No. Not now. Not ever. 4. No, see item 3 answer for further information. 5. Unsolicited advice. Draw some water through the injector at the end of the day if you like. You're welcome.

You prepare it by adding water. Water shouldn't have any negative affect on life span.