Klean Spray

I have a new enclosed trailer which I just finished with the inside configuration and design of equipment. Inside is a cold water 5.5 GPM machine fixed mount and also a 4 GPM portable hot water machine which can be rolled in & out as needed. The trailer is a 5 x 10 (rear & side door). The inside is painted with Herculiner Bed Liner. My goal in the layout was to try to maximize space and after testing everything out I'm wondering if the 5.5 GPM cold water machine is too close to the side wall. The attached pictures shows approximately 8" away from the side wall and the muffler (heat wrapped) vented through the floor. Do you think the machine might be a fire hazard to the side wall or might present too much heat build-up so that it might not perform properly? Thanks for feedback.

Thanks for the suggestions. I really didn't think about the larger diamond plate and spacing it off the wall. I did install an extinguisher inside along with chem. tank, portable fuel tank's (gas & diseal ), extra hoses etc. The roof vent came with the orginal trailer jsut couldn't see in the pic's. Thnaks agin.

I'm installing in a new enclosed trailer two tanks. One for water supply and the other for storage of Chlorine( Sodium Hypochlorite ). In the past I have used the bulk head fittings with the Viton Gaskets and attached my supply water line with clear poly braided and then just a PVC ball valve into the Chlorine Tank so I could fill buckets. Sooner or latter the Drip-Drip-Drip seems to start on either the water tank or Chlorine Tank bulk head fitting. Is it possible to rig a diiferent way or use something different other than the "Black BulkHead Fittings" ? Any suggestions? Thanks

The are plastic fittings leaking from the black viton or rubber washer on the bulk head itself. When I replace the washer on the bulk head fitting then of course no more problem for roughly 6-mths or so.

I will second what Russ said. Same thing happened to me with a new machine recently purchased which I set-up to by-pass back to the tank. Did what Russ suggested and no problem since. Thanks Russ!

I have a Honda GX620 -electric start ( 5.5 gal ) machine with 450-hrs on it that is not holding a charge? I changed the starter battery out and still the same problem. If I jump the battery off with the truck, the machine will crank. If I use the starter battery by-it-self it turns over very-very slow but will not fire up. I could carry into the shop but really didn't want the down time. Question? Could this most likely be a bad Rectifier???

Thanks for all the input and Help! Found out it was the battery. I actually had two batteries that were bad on this trailer set-up. Thanks again.

Actually, I have a "ball Valve" which is always open when starting. After it is running I then shut the ball valve off and connect the gun???

I'm setting-up a new hot water machine inside a box truck which sets toward the front of the truck and aprox. 6-ft from any door opening.Currently I'm trying to figure out what type of material to use and most economical way to vent through the roof straight up. I have looked thru past post and have a few ideas but came across a Google search for venting which had someone suggesting the use of Type "B" Gas Venting Ducts for diseal burner. Would this material be o.k. to use with a diseal burner for venting? Thanks Type "B" Gas Vent & "Big Vent" Metal-Fab's round and oval Type-B vent is listed by Underwriters Laboratoriesfor use with approved category 1 gas furnaces, heaters, and boilers. A category1 appliance operates with a non-positive vent static pressure. The double walldesign of B-vent enables the product to be used in homes and commercialbuildings at close clearance to combustible. Metal-Fab's B-vent designincorporates features that make installation quick, easy, and safe. Efficiently vents Category I natural gas and propane-fueled appliances Resilient dual-layer construction 6" openings .012" aluminum inner liner and .018" galvanized steel outer wall Secure twist-lock connections Requires only 1" clearance to combustibles 25-year warranty UL and ULC Listed Available in five lengths

Thanks for input.

I have a Honda twin V 24hp@4000-psi 5.5gal machine. Lately I have noticed when the trigger is relased after about 10-seconds the machine will go out of by-pass and spike up to the normal 4300 psi and fall back down to around 2500 psi all with out the trigger being pulled. . This repeats as the machine goes in and out of the by-pass mode about every 10-seconds with out the trigger being squezed. If I pull the trigger to start again the pressure drops down to around 2200 psi with a 25-degree tip and SLOWLY rises to almost 2800- 2900 psi max. is all I can get. I have checked hose fittings, jumper hoses etc. and can find no leaks that are visable. Question: Could this be the unloader gone bad? Thanks for any thoughts.

Thanks for all your input! It was the unloader. I replaced today and its working like it should.

Still having the same problem. I repaired with galvanized fitings and new 3/4 ID hose. Whith the trigger depressed and in by-pass their is water POURING back into the float tank like it should but the machine is still doing the orginal slow loss of pressure and in and out of by pass? Could it still be the Un-Loader?

Thanks Tricky! I think I stand corrected. I did check for water leaks on all pressure washer hose fittings and connections BUT did not think about the small leak at the "inlet" side at the water supply tank bulk head fitting (45-degree PVC fitting). After looking, it actually had a crack at the 45-degree and was leaking water. I'm guessing after I re-plum I should be good to go?

I also have the 21" Mosmatic (NO CASTER"S) and mine has done the same thing since it was new. Mine really doesn't shoot out but mainly just kind of runs out the holes. At first I thought something was wrong but after using it I thought it might be something that keeps it from forming like a Vortex or Sunction? Really woul like to know the reason?

I have a 5.5 GPM 24-horse machine on a trailer with about 10-ft of jumper hose to the rear connected ( quick Dis. ) to a general pump Fixed chemical injector ( 2.1, 3-5 GPM ) then connected to a hose reel. Orginally I had 250-ft of 3/8 hose and never had problems with chemical injectors "drawing". I added an additional 100-ft of hose to make a total of 350-ft. For some reason it will not draw the chemical? When I disconnect gun and open the ball valve no problem soap will draw? This is what I have tried to this point: - Changed Fixed injector to ( 2.3 5-8 GPM ) NO Good - Tried different gun ( 10-GPM ) No Good - Tried Allision Super Suck Adjustable injector ( 3-5 GPM ) No Good I really would like to keep the same set-up and keep the chemical tank and chemical injector on the trailer. Any Thoughts??? Thanks

Thanks all for your help! This will give me some options.

Ron, Could you send to kleanspray@comcast.net. Thanks Jeff