PressurePros

Sounds like a plain old surfactant/soap. I don't think it would be all that great for housewashing because in the MSDS it states that it demulsifies when mixed with acids of caustics. A neutral cleaner that can't be mixed with bleach will probably be limited as to what it can do on a house.

We have discussed this problem and every contractor I know, including myself thinks it is JUNK. To clarify, their claims of 25 years waranty are JUNK.In all probability, this deck may be ruined. I don't know of anybody making a product that will strip it. At the very least try a sodium hydroxide based stripper on it and then brighten it again and se if you get results.

heartwood Cypress - seal with paraffinic - Baker's Gray Away

Do a test spot. You can make the problem worse and cause flash rusting. It depends on door quality, age and finish.

You should tell the truth only in a soft form. "Elite PW'ing hasn't been around for a long time Mr Jones, but I will tell you that before I ever picked up a wand, I did my research and learned about proper technique. That knowlege coupled with my attention to detail and the experience I have gained in the field makes me qualified to give you a top notch job"

Got a call from a customer.. Said some white spots were appearing on her deck. She just sent me some pictures. This is Bakers Gray Away on PTP. Stripped, pH balanced, sanded and buffed. Sealer sprayed and back brushed. Some type of salt? Sap? ideas on a solution?

I need someone that services all or most of these areas for deck work. Please pm me for details if you are interested. Bethesda, Rockville, Potomac, Gaithersburg, Germantown, Boyds, Kensington, Silver Spring are the prime cities. Bill

It's sap. Hail to the mighty Shane man.

I like suburban life. I am one hour from mountains, one hour from the beach, I have a Wawa/Qwikie Mart within 3 miles, four major malls within another 5 miles, and a 30 minute ride to culture, excellent restaraunts and waterfront night life. I love my city... and the quiet retreat of the suburbs

Phil, whats in it?

Dan, I think you are on the right track. Russell, Stuttering Bob, Rowlett and whomever else markets stripper would have me as a customer for life if they can come with something that will strip acrylics and not cost $30+ per gallon.

I smell acrylic.

I definitely feel where you are coming from, Rick. When and if the problem arises it is going to be one helluva solution to try and strip 50 or so ATO laden hardwood decks. As far as the pigmentation issue clouding grain.. From my experience and from the sound of your own, The ATO fades very badly in our climate over the course of a year so its not the darkening that concerns me, it is the building film. I clean all of the ATO decks with EFC-38 which serves to give the new sealer an edge on penetrating since it acts as a mild stripper. So far so good. In five years we may be comparing notes and both be kicking ourselves. Let me know how you make out on the hardwoods with the RS

Rick, the rails on my deck have seen a fresh coating of ATO every year for the past three years. They still looked great, I just wanted to try the Tux on them. After three coats I had no real buildup or any evidence of a failing film. I think the key with formulations of linseed oil based sealers is to get maximuum penetration on initial application and then keep the maintenance coats thin. I, too, have many ATO hardwood decks out there. None of them has more than three coats, but I am wondering at what point, if any, they will reach maximum and have to be stripped. If you stay with ATO, why would you have to strip to bare wood?

Exactly John, he did you a favor by giving you a heads up about windows. I could do a fairly large house with siding in about 45 minutes if there were no windows. I find that 50% of my time is spent rinsing windows and landscaping.

I send everyone to Keith as well. He is pretty much the standard for all of us that use graphic designers.

It takes about twice as long to do the outside of rails that are above 6' off the ground. Most call it the PITA factor and I add 20%. In this case I would measure each tier individually and multiply by a PITA factor. With every rung I climb, it goes up.

Perhaps he tried cleaning it himself already and there is more to it than what he describes as streaking. Chemical could have dried on that window and it may need to be polished. If you were using emulsifier plus I am willing to bet that is what happened. Don't let one window sour a man's opinion of the job he received. He will refer you all the more and forget all about that window when he tells his friends not only what a good job you did, but how decent your post-sale follow up was. Which by the way is a true test of a company's integrity. Customers are getting more conscientous. I had a guy call me back for a 1/2" spot of sealer that was burried behind a down spout completely out of view. I had to put a rag on a paint stirring stick to even get to it. It was fifteen minutes out of my way and I was soaked with bleach when I had to go there but do you think I was going to let his $2800 seal job be remembered because I couldn't keep my word of "no sealer on the home"

great link, Alan. Thank you

Truck was last seen at a drive-thru Starbucks. It is alleged that driver ordered a quadruple shot of espresso and was heard hootin and hollerin "northeast BDA, here I come!"

In this case, oxalic acid is your friend. It will remove some of the natural oils and sugars and allow the wood to absorb more sealer as well as it dry it out quicker.

I wouldn't wait any more than two weeks. I would clean and and ph balance now and in two weeks throw on sealer. Get your moisture meter on it.

Here ya go.. this is from an estimate last week. This customer's wood restoration genius thought high pressure and hot water were the ticket too.

Amen, Rick. You are dead on. I am on 2000 s/f decks and I look in the window and see Ikea furniture.

From what you have told me about your customer base and your particular business model, I would say walk.