PressurePros

Here is a pic of a deck that had a thick layer of that crap on there. Two strip applications of boosted HD-80, sanded and buffed with an Osborne. I don't know if this picture will do it justice, I cropped and zoomed in on the privacy fence. You can see how it still has pink in many places.

I don't agree with going the belt sander route on a floor, especially for a person new to restoration (no disrespect intended, Mike). I also disagree with needing to use a finishing paper. Anything above 60 grit (numerically) is too fine. 60 grit paper will leave exterior wood very smooth. For that floor, head to a tool rental place and grab one of those square vibrating sanders. Pick up 20 something grit paper and a 1" sponge. This is mild and you won't tear up the floor. It'll take you maybe 20-30 minutes to do the whole thing. Get under the rails the best you can with a random orbital. The dye color could and probably will still remain as a pink haze if it is the product I think it is.

Keep in mind these companies often telemarket, sell on price and then offer you 2 cents a square. If anyone checks it out, post it here. I get a call or email just about everyday from these kinds of companies.

The thing about technology moving so fast is that a DSL connection and a Pent4 with a gig or under of RAM is now the dinosaur that cannot keep up with the web. I agree with you about Joomla. Some Joomla sites take forever to load, especially in Internet Explorer.

Dan, my callback percentage has remained constant over the years. A couple years ago I thought that I was getting an inordinate amount of callbacks. Then when i averaged my numbers, the percentages were the same. My volume had increased dramatically and of course all the numbers rise with it. This is the nature of residential work.

Adrian, very glad to hear you are okay. I hate hot fueling. I have spilled it on the exhaust several times and even without the flash fire, I instinctually jumped back. Its a gut wrenching moment.

I will, Rick. I'll give you one heads up of how we over analyze and worry about things. Shane used to stain decks in the afternoon that were under thunderstorms the night before. that was with Baker's a real thin parafinic oil based product. He told me many times he never had a problem. If I waited for 15% moisture around here I'd be lucky to do 12 decks per year.

Scott, my fear with stuff like that is that is alienates slower connected/older computer users. Someone needs to write a script that does a quick connection test then routes users to the proper server side (graphic light, script heavy, etc)

Charlie, since pigment is the sacrificial host in a stain, I would think it would outlast the semi trans by measurable margin.

I got the inside scoop that you can get it on 20%, Rick. ;)

That looks like the dye (yes dye, not pigment) of Behr's hybrid oil/acrylic. You won't get it out. You'll have to go with a darker color if that's what it is.

I did get it to finally load and it worked flawlessly but I have a ton of processing power and a very fast connection.

I haven't yet Scott. Waiting for a smaller project. (and a run of dry weather.. I sent a guy out Sunday and Monday thru Weds have been good.. rest of the week looks like its back to opening more projects.) Scott, Greg and Celest are now making me wonder if I should open that can you sent me. Your positive that is the semi solid?

I have to say that it does seem to have the right combination of all worlds. It dives quick, it sets rapidly without flashing, the tone is very even, one coat does rails very nicely. The cedar semi trans finishes beautifully. All of this in a VOC compliant product you can apply to 20% moist wood? Somebody pinch me.

I tell people we will be out the week of ______. On Sunday afternoon I call everyone to say.. "we'll be out sometime this week. Have everything off the deck." If they want exact times they cannot get until the night before. We are running 15 large projects a week right now. There is no way I can give anybody a definitive TOA.

Tony, I'd be more in the $7500 range but that is not to say $11K is not the right number. I did a quick scan of the pics. Tonight I'll shoot back here and give you more info from my eyes.

Warm water tends to rinse soap and emulsified oil away faster (100 degrees or so) but the cost of running the burner and the heating of the couplers does not make it worthwhile. +1 for cold wash.

Armstrong Clarke meets all states VOC requirements. If you want cleaner than that, you have to go with a water borne.

Two tone decks, or in this case a floor that had to be masked off are always a 50% upcharge for me. Its very tedious and time consuming making sure you do not get stain where it isn't supposed to go.

I'd buy it local. $1600 should get you a belt driven 13 horse 4gpm at a local shop. Go get it and you know you will be up and running and you will get support. Things happen during shipping.

To boost HD-80 add polypropolene glycol ("safe" anti freeze) and/or butyl. I added both. That info came directly from the assembler of HD-80. PM me for the amounts to add.

In the end, each stain will have its good and its bad and all boards will need to be redone in two years. I'm not knocking the experiment Rick. I enjoy reading your unbiased reviews. You know me, I don't get into this the same way you do. Its a business for me. I take pride in my work but knowing the details as to when mold grows, which is more conducive to maintenance, etc doesn't interest me unless it takes me past the two year mark on longevity.

Other than getting in between spindles which nothing I have found yet accomplishes. I've used the pads and they are okay for what they are. Like you said, Beth, they tear and leave residue.

I use the square bristled versions from the LHS. Someone (Fife maybe) told me to steer clear of the round ones. I hate the weight of the polisher and those brushes. I wish Dan Tambasco would invent something that would make defurring spindles easier.

Tanning oil! :D