PressurePros

I guarantee every deck for two years. I have never gotten a call back before that time.

In typical ADD fashion I then spent another 30 minutes watching videos of how he does his tricks. I can now levitate and have two guys pull a chain through my neck.

Thanks D-J. Logo Design Software | Logo Creator | Logo Maker

hahaha, that's true. Hey you never said how you liked your new logo ;-)

Classy broad. Dude (in comment section) summed it up pretty well. Was waiting for Joe Dirt to come out as well.

coverin your bases there Kev? Solvent, caustic, acid. That about covers everything LOL.

Eric, see that picture above? That's downstreaming in action. Sprays higher than the X-Jet. No chemical fog like mentioned by Chris S. Less plant damage, less chemical used (this one gets argued though) and no having to prime the damn X-Jet every other minute. As far as how much chemical.. One five gallon bucket of housewash mix does whole house (up to 3500 s/f). In that we use 3 gallons of 12% and one gallon of housewash mix. What gets wasted in the hose amounts to maybe 2 pennies. Its faster than X-Jetting. Since bill rates for housewashing range $100/hr to $300/hr I'd say that arguement is moot.

Whats an X-Jet? Is that the thing that holds down my papers in the glove box?

That's God telling you to stop upstreaming and switch to a downstreamer. No check valves needed and no corrosive stuff running through your pump.

I try to make everything as systematic and efficient as possible. For my business its best for me to have as few chemicals on board as is possible. Otherwise I get into more training, more paperwork via specific work orders and slowed performance. We have limited space on the deck trucks. They have to carry pw'er, chemicals, stain, sprayers, chem tanks, sanders, etc. Having multiple chemicals is something I expreimented with in the beginning and found it to be not neccessary.

Because he is not going to be able to get even pressure like one would when washing a spindle or floor board I would want to make sure my chemical was potent enough to do the trick on the first spray. EFC (F-18, bleach or any cleaner) will fur wood just as easily as HD at the right dilution. If its gonna fur, its gonna fur. EFC is also only able to be diluted to acertain rate. I would once again go the the HD for the downstream/chem application factor.

I got dibs on your equipment tommorrow evening when you are ready to call it quits in the wood restoration business. That is a monster job compacted into a small area. I'm playing with you. How long have you allocated to stripping it? Downstreaming HD-80 would have ben the way I'd tackle it. I think the EFC is gonna cause you more heartache. Definitely keep us abreast of the project. I know you are into the detail of your work so I would expect your after pics are going to be stuning.

Thats my point Chaz.. is ethylene glycol monopbutyl ether the same thing as ethylene glycol? I think its like brown sugar and white sugar.. similar but used in different applications. I get my butyl from a local janitorial supply house. If memory serves, it is 8%. I'll have to double check that though.

LOL, you made a liar outta me.

but is ethyl buto yad yada glycol the same ingredient as just ethylene glycol? I would venture not or we would be using butyl as an antifreeze. This is Ken serving as the blind leading the blind.. I better step back and wait for some real information. Where's Ryan or Russell when you need them?

Butyl is synergistic with sodium hydroxide. The best concrete mixes have butyl and hydroxide. But that is not why I do it. I didn't come up with this mix. The Chemist™ at ESI did. I just follow directions. If I am not mistaken, ESI's Boost has both in it. This is what I was hoping you could clear up.. why use both? (using both makes the mix formidable and very dangerous to work with) I wonder if it would be just as potent using 4 galons of either one as opposed to two of each) I'm lossssssssssst

I was told by Russell that ethylene glycol will not work as a booster additive. I'm not saying you are wrong Rod as I am not a chemist but relaying what I was told. If you want a killer downstream-able stripper that will remove almost anything (in a 25 gallon tank) mix: 20 gallons water One ten lb tub of HD-80 2 gallons polypropolene glycol 2 gallons butyl cellosolve Kevin, further explaination on the difference between the two antifreezes? Butyl celosolve has ethylene glycol listed next to it on websites validating what Rod was saying. I am already lost as I am a lousy technician. Anything you can add to clarify (en anglais, s'il vous plais) would be appreciated.

Always a day late and a hundred dollars short, Millen.

butyl.

Test that stain with a stripper. It looks shiny and hard. Could just be over application but it might turn out to be the dreaded "A" word.

It failed three months sooner than it was gonna fail (4 months) Ready Seal on mahogany? On any hardwood. A very temporary look good fix. Rapid decline. Every time it rains some of it will wash away. I guess Jim will be here around 11 pm to hang me for saying this. (Though I think he even knows its true as indicated per his "experiments" of mixing RS with a curing stain)

Close pressure is often needed. Even then, its very difficult to remove them 100%. Plan on some ladder work.

Well, that depends.. I look upon stain as "failing" the day after it is applied and the sun first hits it. The finish is sacrifical so it begins a decline right away. The product choice will determine how rapid that slope is re: fading, oxidation etc and the determination has to be made by the professional doing the cleaning.

I have seen four percent take off half the color from an oil based finish. It depends upon what stage of failure the finish is in.