PressurePros

Not likening it to non UV protecting but rather to what parafinic oil is..mineral oil. I realize it has pigmentation, albeit a fairly low, if not industry standard, amount. Isn't mineral oil the main ingredient in tanning oil? About drying out wood..A non drying oil will penetrate deeply then leech back out and wash away every time it rains. When it comes out, with it comes the natural sugar and oils from the wood. Negatively displacing the wood's natural protection leaves more areas that the wood can absorb water. As you know, the evaporative cycles are what warps wood. It can be argued and it probably holds true that this wouldn't make a difference as long as you continuously used artifical replacement (ie more paraffinic oil) so the point is moot but saying its the best product for wood is not true. My crusade against RS is not because I dislike the product, its salespeople, or the guys that devotedly sing its praises. Its because of the misinformative propaganda that it is something special. It has drawbacks as do all stains/sealers. I've used it and found it desperately wanting in pigmentation, very expensive to use, and not conducive to staying on any kind of real staining schedule here in the northeast. On top of that customers complained about it getting it on clothes and carpets. The resin thing is possibly a rumor..just grapevine stuff.

Kevin, I hear ya on everyone having different ideas of what a good exterior wood product is. I don't think tanning oil is the best thing for wood. The funniest part is, the main thing paraffinic advocates shout about is conditioning the wood when in fact, these types of non-drying oils actually dry out the wood. (this statement is gonna hang me out to dry)

Wood Tux penetrates wood, Mike. Don't believe what you read from those that don't use it. Just looked at a three year old WT deck and it was faded. We washed with a little bleach and soap and restained it. One gallon covered 400 s/f and it looked like new. WT is a penetrating oil that cures. That's the definition of sealer. I have heard Ready Seal has added resins. Maybe the RS crowd can jump in with info on that. Technically, by legal definition, RS should cure to be called a sealer. (ie use the name "seal" in the product name) If they added resins then it is more similar to Wood Rich.

Where is there a film in either of the products you mentioned? You are Mr Scientist whom thrives in detail. Surely you meant curing penetrating sealer vs non-drying oil? I know you wouldn't want to be known to give out misinformation now would you, Kevin? (just pulling your leg)

Been staining for 6 weeks so that would stand to reason I could make an accurate assessment on costs, yes? Gas prices have been rising steadily over the last month, yes? Good business people watch their costs and react as to not lose money, yes? I cannot keep up with decks this time of year, raised my cost on labor twice this season already as well. Still not missing a beat, though some people will rant and rave. PS: did you finally get your goody via the email I sent your way?

I used to be $.30 on my materials. I took them up to $.35 because all of my expenses from gas to stripper to selaer have all gone up. WoodTux is now easier to apply but my coverage rates have gone done. You have to constantly analyze your costs and adjust accordingly.

Your housewash will remove the majority of it with about 600 psi. What's left will be mineral staining and is best removed with an acid.

Don't put stripper on it, you are going to warp the vinyl. Go to Home Depot or Sherwin William and get Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover. Goof Off will probably work but I have found it to remove too much colorant from siding.

Rick, what did you think about Russell's post re: salts formed when neutralising and the importance of rinsing after applying acid?

LOL, I hit backspace to take a letter out of "stain labor" and deleted the whole word. Thats what i get for being in a hurry. - KF

Stripping price is given per s/f Labor Price is given per s/f Materials cost is given per s/f and sales tax is collected on this portion. I don't break down every piece of plastic, pound of stripper or gallon of stain. The cost per s/f of materials is $.35 on decks.

I break it down.

Glad to see you southern guys are getting a taste of our northern prices. That's on helluva increase.

Home

In CA, its a 3 month product.

Charlie, Half a tub per pail. Like I mentioned, to be fair, they were difficult strips. When I go out again I am going to mix a batch of HD and F-18 and compare them side by side.

I have to say honestly I have not been impressed with F-18. I have been out to a couple deck strips and both required two treatments. To be fair though, they could have both been difficult strips.

Bull. Working an average of 260 days per year (accounting for weather and working six days per week which I doubt he is doing) means he is doing 8-9 housewashes per day six days a week. It ain't happening. Any fool making $50,000 a year can finance a dually and run ads.

Tell him frm here on out his deck will no longer: Turn black from mold Then turn gray from the sun Linseed oil is in the majority of stain finishes so it will strip like anything else oil/alkyd based.

Put a down payment on an infomercial.

Use a good quality carwash instead of dawn.

If I can find the damn cord to connect my camera to the computer I'll post up a picture of a beautfiul ipe deck I stained with WoodZotic ;-)

Show mee Sand Tha Floor!

I've done plenty of deck in a day jobs. I've gotten away from them because they en up wasing time figuring out where you stopped and started and then there is the issue of the Tux displacing the water in the wood. We've ben running on a 'wash one week/stain the next' schedule.

You sound like a woody to me.. a profitable one.