PressurePros

If the mix doesn't do what its supposed to, cut back on the detergent and add another gallon of 12.5%. Let me give you a heads up. The mix you are talking about will kill plants almost on conttact and will etch glass especialy if you let it dry. Pre-wet everything!

Excellent, Todd. I bow to thee.

One thing to keep in mind Shane is that every board would be sanded so there would be no splotchiness like you get from spot sanding. I just want my wood free from all contaminants before I apply a sealer. If the "pores" of the wood are cloged with sawdust that sawdust is going to absorb sealer. Since that dust is not attached to the wood a paraffinic oil would just moisten them and they would wash away at the first rain. Little harder to say with wood tux as the product will cure and more or less lock everything in.

Shane, I do. I think using a percarb cleaner would lift out any dust and help to remove any sugars that may get warmed up by high speed sanding.

Todd, I like your style. Think 'reticular activation'. That is the key to any media being effective. Definition: Your brain constantly scans for that which is irregular. You hear a car alarm going on you may or may not even glance over. You hear a car screeching to an abrubt halt with smoke pouring off the tires and a god awful sound you are going to take notice. The key to effectiveness, IMO, is to not cross the line and set the ante too high. People become desensitized very quickly. One has to do crazier and crazier things to get attention. I love marketing as it is such a balance of ingenuity, creativity and having your finger on the pulse of the consumer. I have a flyer that starts off.. _________________________________________________________________ "ARE YOU INTENTIONALLY HARMING YOUR CHILDREN?" If your house looks like this you may very well be.. *PICTURE OF MOLDY HOUSE* Call Today to listen to a free report on the dangers of mold infestation or to have an expert technician give you a free property analysis. DO IT NOW... AREN'T YOUR KIDS WORTH IT? ___________________________________________________________

Banner and whole site looks great Mike.

A very valuable lesson. You get one chance to do it correctly. Donna, best of luck and I commend your new commitment to customer service.

Paul, I just recovered my d-base at restore-a-deck. I have about 15 guys to add that I never knew were there. Its on my to-do list. I'll get you up there. I've sanded a few and the results were incredible. I offer it as an upsell but I don't push it. Do you ever tint your sealer?

Every year around this time I do a project from Hell-O there Mr Acrylic. Two levels of deck, footpaths, pools, roaming dogs, tons of furniture both wooden and not, bushes, height and worst of all an acrylic that needed to come off. Most of it came off with HD-80. There were some spots (lower benches that needed to be treated with ABR Strip-It-All. Can you say $200 per pail? The outsides of those bottom rails (there is ton you cannot see in the video), the rails directly against the siding, the above mentioned dogs and swimming pool not to mention having to move very heavy wooden furniture made this one a real blast. Deck, furniture and all wood treated with Wood Rich by ESI.. 47 gallons worth. Rather than post a bunch of pictures I made a little video. I added some tunes so its fun to watch. Enjoy http://www.zippyvideos.com/2574838006177056/flynn_project/ .................................. No wildlife or vegetation was harmed in the making of this video.

Thanks Jon. I forgot to ask you if anything ever came of that ipe deck. I don't recall if you told me.

Bob is a marketing master. i wish him luck and success with all. He deserves it.

Paul, couple of questions.. When you say SOP. Is this gonna be for ever deck floor that needs stripping? Every deck period? There is nothing like sanding a floor. The sealer takes and looks 10 times better. What do you do about the rails? Do you own the equipment or rent it for when the situation calls for it. (nice units) What type of prep do you do prior to a floor sanding. I am assuming you set the nails.

Larry you should see some of the work some of my customers turn out. I'm talking second story ipe deck construction and it looks good. I think the key with a DIY'er is they love it and they make time to do their projects. They spend the money on the right tools for the job. The above was quoted $4500 for the scope of the work he needed done. I guided him as much as I could and he ended up spending about $800. For $3700 there are those that won't mind the time spent. He and his family can now take a vacation on what they saved.

Its absolutely worth it. Your goal should always be geared towards business owner not laborer. My mistake this year was keeping myself as a crew leader thinking I would keep one full time crew busy then myself and a part timer would fill in the gaps. What a disaster. Every one of my businesses suffered and I worked mad hours for what equated to nowhere near enough profit. Next year there will be three crews and I will NOT be on any of them. I am changing my philosophy about deck work. Speed and efficiency will be paramount. I am way too slow to be in the field. I wish you luck with your growth. Let me know if there any pitfalls I can help you avoid..

How do I get one of those "temporarily unavailable" sites?!

True and false, Greg. I think the keys are: 1) Having a superior product. Sodium percarbonate is just one ingredient in the RAD cleaner. It hands down, 10 out of 10 times outperforms Wolman's or cheaper knock off formulas. 2) Provide the customer with support. Handing a customer a package and saying "now go be a deck restoration professional" will yield lousy results. I guarantee you, Greg that what I am doing is VERY new. There is international buzz generated with the RAD line. Customer testimonials come in every day. I make sure the customer has an idea what he is doing. If you have any doubts of the abilities of a DIY'er check out the pics below. I was VERY impressed. Got these this morning. Anybody that has done a trellis knows this guy really did a nice job.

Hey Dan I think for paints, the new generation latex hands down outperforms the oils. I still prime exposed wood with an oil but all TC's are latex. I like the Wood Rich because it can be given to my guys without a learning curve. It spreads better, dives deeper (you probably noticed the color differences of the newly sealed upper decks versus the area by the pool). I'm fairly certain it contains a parafinic oil as well as alkyd resins so it dives and it cures. To me that is the best of all world's in a sealer.

Neil, how did it go? How strong did you have to go?

Inc ...

Anthony, I was talking about the talking robotic voices on websites. That link is totally cool. Not very fast but entertaining. I typed in "quitting smoking" and she came out smoking a cigarette LOL

C'mon Neil you're at least part redneck aren't you? You don't like the Outlaw's Green Grass High Tides (released 1975 not the 80's)? I'm pretty sure if I put the music I normally listen to on the video it would be an ear assault. I didn't think Let The Bodies Hit The Floor by Drowning Pool was appropriate nor would be Du Hast by Rammstein. For the record I despise 80's music. C&C was definitely a tongue in cheek addition.

Its tabbed now isn't it?

Ryan, you will never get an exterior finish (product) to look as good as an interior one. Different types of pigmentation, penetration etc. I would use a neutral stripper (non methlyene chloride). There are products out there that with a 24 hr dwell time will eat through everything. I would not put water on interior furniture either. Raises the grain. HD-80 has surfactants in it that make it soapy.

Deck job.. no details (yet)

agreed. Your second idea is better though not neccessarily my style.