PressurePros

Question is.. would you have the cajones to really tell them the truth? If you give a customer anything but perfect 10's on every topic you risk offending and losing them. "What do you mean I was only 'average' with scheduling?!?! Poor on payment schedule? You never sent the first invoice!" etc etc etc

You know where to find them Dan if you decide you need one ;-)

I would be wary to touch anything funnelled through the hands of the current administration of the PWNA. Does anyone have a copy of their current bylaws? I would love to see the loopholes some are jumping through.

Not that I know of. Check your home center for "phosphate free" TSP. Read the ingredients. Supposedly that is some type of sodium silicate.

I wash a LOT of stucco. We specialize in it. With all due respect to Tracy, that is way too low a concentration of sodium hypochlorite. It might work for marginally dirty dryvit but it won't work on beasts like pictured below.

5000 square foot monster coming up. We start that next week. Don't tell that Shane guy about this contest or I'll have to burn all my pictures.

You might have better success with Wood Rich. If you have never used WT on hard woods you may end up with a ton of shiny spots. In either case brush it out by hand (and charge accordingly) We get $4 per s/f (floor) to prep and apply sealer to ipe.

Whole deck here as well. Good luck with the pump up. (you'll do that one time)

Well Powerwashin A I'll Tell Ya What I Think And That Is That You Should Guage Your Results That You Have Already Achieved And Then Make Any Adjustments As You See Fit If What You Been Doin Is Working Okay Then You Don't Need To Worry About 12 % Its All About Killing The Mold.

Cha Ching. I have my guys finishing the first Wood Rich deck as I type this. I'll post pics later. Are we posting the pictures here (in this thread)? Sorry if you already answered that I got excited and scrolled down to comment.

We use Little Giant ladders and adjust them to compensate for the slope.

Tracy, do you still wash houses?

If you can mix your own detergent try adding a generous portion of sodium metasilicate (as well as TSP) to your mix. You definitely need stronger sodium hypochlorite concentration as well. You should have 5-6% hitting the house. Make sure the windows and vegetations stay rinsed! Effloresecence needs to be treated with acid. Be careful not to burn the substrate. Always pre-wet before applying acid.

They did not hear our cry. :mad: :banghead:

Fungus requires brushing because you are not using a synergistic, higher quality housewash detergent. Take it for what its worth. I have tested both methods and a sodium metasilicate based housewash will outperform dish liquid or other singular surfactants hands down

Celeste, were you cuttin' on Lord F?

I get 6:1 through my downstreamer, Dan. Your mix of hypochlorite is way too low. Try upping it and you won't be scrubbing as much. Up your TSP too much and you are going to be buffing out etched glass.

I did an experiment last week with the old "squirt of Dawn". The comparison to using a proper detergentwas not even in the same league. What brought on the comparison was siding that I wasn't sure was oxidized and going to give up paint to a caustic. I used half a bottle of Dawn and about 2% sod. hypo. hitting house. It looked like it came clean in most areas but there were some stubborn spots so I switched over and downstreamed my housewash concentrate onto that spot. Voila.. much mor dirt emulsified and rinsed away. So much so that when we came back to that side after cleaning a porch we had to rewash the whole thing with "real" detergent. My opnion is.. if you are going to charge $100/hr plus for housewashing at least spend the extra few dollars per house and give the customer the value they are paying for. This also wasn't a fluke experiment. Many times during experimentation with my current housewash I had to increase the strength of the concentrate to get it to really work. Car wash or "Dawn" was always present so the mitigating factor is definitely the right caustic.

On a 5.5 gpm using an X-Jet I would go 3 parts 6% to 1 part water. You're probably going to end up around 2% or so hitting the house (little more or a little less depending on your flow rate) Use a good house wash detergent and add a little TSP to the mix to energize the bleach.

Matthew, you are still fairly active with the org, right? How do you (and other members reading this post) feel about having no input on bringing in an outsider to a B.O.D. position? I'm not saying its a bad thing. Outside help in the form of a true businessman may be what the PWNA needs. I just take it from your post that you would like to have had at least the opportunity to provide input. Is this S.O.P for the PWNA?

Dan, your price was right on the numbers.

Everything damages Trex. We did one last month that had driveway sealer on it. We had to end up resealing the entire deck to make the deck look uniform in color again. Solvent+Trex = noticeable shadowing. You can't really see it in the first picture but it was there.

Ate at Don Shula's last night. One word.. INCREDIBLE. They have a bunch of locations. The service is excellent. We were seated in high back leather chairs (ie like you would find in an exclusive cigar bar) and everything from appetizers to desert was very impressive. If you are looking for a special night with the S.O, check this place out. http://www.donshula.com/steakhouse1.htm

Do Little, Those goals are mutually exclusive. You need pigment to provide any UV protection. If Ready Seal has a clear, you could dilute woth some toned sealer and have minimal protection, maximum natural. Every one of my customers say they want clear then after I talk them out of it are very happy they decided to use a toned sealer. Show her some pictures. If you use a clear it will be gray in six months.

Ryan, dress code is business casual. Khakis and a button down shirt. Have the Sheraton valets park your car and Shulas will validate your ticket.