PressurePros

That's frustrating Rick. I have had that happen too. Real world, Rick. Keep it in perspective. I don't expect anyone's deck is going to crumble to the ground prematurely using the procedures we all use. Regardless of prep, we are talking about cosmetics. The customer knows their deck will last at most 20 years. I venture to say that even if I used stripper every single time (ie stripped it every year) the sher fact that I was oiling it would keep it healthier than letting it sit exposed. Don't believe the hype. Question for ya, Rick. After confering with Mr Ego, how have you modified the way you do things? I am not being facetious, I am actually asking if you re-evaluated and changed your procedures? You are a believer in using F-18. F-18 was designed for concrete, not wood care. I could make issue with that fact and say you are not doing all you can to preserve and protect. To a certain extent we are all at the mercy of manufacturers, chemists, and "experts". Who to believe?

That is very simply a 0 degre tip with a large orifice and a QC attached. You can actually make one in about 60 seconds for about half the price as advertised there. Drilling a hole in that would just ruin in. The X-Jet is a precision venturi system that relies on pressure to create the vacuum. What you propose, Grizzly would not work.

Thanks, guys. I appreciate all the info. I should probably be clearer for the application. What I need may very well be something custom. I want to offer them to my customers on my website for deck scrubbing. Mel, is it possible to get those in a medium bristle?

We all need to find niches to stay ahead of the competetion. Jim on your next housewash with oxidation (where customer isn't willing to pay for the type of service you describe or two stepping) try just using a car wash (a good one like Meguire's with wax) and tone your sodium hypochlorite down to about 2% hitting house.. not other cleaners. Let me know what happens.

Rick, you missed my point with the analogy. Sodium hydroxide can be reduced to levels that will not harm your skin. What I am trying to say is, your all encompassing statement is not grounded in fact. I am surprised you would take such an alarmist stance on this topic as I know you to be a man of fact and science. What Ed Burke did was spout off studies that, in my opinion, do not have the all encompassing answers, nor incorporate a bit of real world conditions nor practicality. If sodium hydroxide can be made safe for something as sensitive skin, it can certainly be diluted to use on exterior wood. I am not sure how much PTP you have worked with these last couple of season but unfortunately people are not using KD15 from quality yards. They (or their contractors) are using the Home Depot D grade crap that is practically dripping with gren flourescence. Even left out for a month this stuff laughs at paraffinics and spits them right back out. I HAVE tried sodium percarbonate. On the three decks I used it (that had repair work), it not only did nothing to alleviate the contrast of new/old, it did nothing to prep the new boards. After attempting to alleviate the mess that would not penetrate the wood, I ended the aggravation by stripping those areas and starting again. You just may not have come across the scenario yet. When you do, you will understand. At that point I would like to see what viable solution you offer the customer.

Kitchen exhaust applications would be better suited with a foaming style applicator. The hassl of the buckets, closerange nozzles and overspray would not make the X-Jet viable in KEC. Many guys use the X-Jet for flatwork. In this application you positively want the real X-Jet. Anymore than a 2:1 dilution will just slow you down. With parts and stainless materials it will cost you at least $30 and probably much more as you waste material trying to get the thing right. Why would you even consider this for a $100 piece?

Rick, I think you have been brainwashed by Ed. (not mean spirited, just ribbing you) As was discussed with that good ole boy, sodium hydroxide, in varying dilutions, is in just about every type of soap on the consumer market. Therefore it stands to reason that a light wash of sodium hydroxide on wood is not apt to cause any long term ramifications. It's all in the application. The only thing removed will be that waxy coating that is imparted (either intentionally or by the CCA process itself) The new CCA treatment is very deeply impregnated and it positively occupies and resists penetrating oils to some degree. Rick, in your mind compare the damage levels on these two scenarios. One, deck is chemically aged (by a professional with no visible damage) and immediately treated with a quality oil. Two, the wood is left to age going through rapid high/low moisture cycles (the true cause of warping, checking, cupping and other visible signs of damage) You know how it is, Rick. This is not an exact scince. We need to balance perfect world conditions against the reality of harsh exterior enviroment and use what we have learned about wood to meet both customer expectations as well as do what is best for the wood itself. I still stand by my technique.

Adrian LOVES his X-Jet! The problem with building your own or buying a cheaper knock off is that you will not get the same ratio of detergent as the original X-Jet™. That defeats the purpose of having it. If you are looking to get around the expense (you shouldn't be that low funded but that is another story) do some research on downstreaming. As long as you clean houses that have siding as opposed to stucco or dryvit, you won't need an X-Jet.

That is exactly what I would suggest as well. I call it chemical aging.

Mel, that would be perfect except I need something that runs on municipal water pressure.

I did a cleaning last week from a deck I did in May 05. All day in the sun and the first time I did the deck it was covered in mold. Upon return, no mold growth and I could not determine any UV color shift though it was dirty from her dog walking from muddy yard. After cleaning, the customer was asking me when I thought it would ned to be redone. My reply was that at the rate it was holding up, probably 2008.

I understand and applaud your effort to give a customer above and beyond service but one thing I have learned is don't create problems in business where none exist. If the customer is okay with a solid, then you can wash his deck, feather any chipped areas by sanding, apply an oil based primed and recoat with solid. Stripping an acrylic solid requires very expensive chemicals and is extremely labor intensive. Measure the guy's floor and if he has spindles figure about $7 per s/f to strip and put down a semi. If you think he would be willing to pay that (and trust me, you won't be gouging at that price) go for it. When you get a chance, click the link below to see what you are in store for... http://forums.thegrimescene.com/showthread.php?t=5021

I agree with Paul and have had similar results. If every contractor remembers that WT on cedar (in it's natural form) makes an orangey finish, I can't see how you can have issues down the line. Add black (I don't even measure anymore) and you have brown. There is still a ton of opposition t using WTW and I understand the apprehension but when you give the product a chance and learn its caveats, your profit in woodcare rises dramatically. Just using it on 50% of my deck work this year has saved me tons of scheduling aggravation. I'd still love to see a product with just a bit less pigmentation, but I have expressed my concerns to ESI and possibilities exist to make this my 'go to' sealer in 100% of the applications. I think the issue is this, most guys are used to using products they consider "fool proof". Wood Tux requires a little finesse, yes. In a business where profit is paramount (anything else is just a hobby) its hard for me to understand not working out the kinks and offering it in your arsenal. Fool proof and foolhardy are not synonymous.

Before you spend money on a bunch of products you better do a test spot. Didn't the homeowner know what is on there? The new ACQ is a real PITA to seal. The easiest and cleanest way to check and se if a standard hydroxide based stripper will work is to grab a can of Easy Off and spray a small, inconspicuous spot and see what happens. If the product emulsifies, then I would order some HD-80 pronto.

I cannot speak for Pressuretek as I have never dealt with him. I will tell you that Paul Kassander offers outstanding prices and above and beyond customer service. Give him a call.

If you are going to be passing by Philly, give me a ring

Shane, yes I made some samples of the BGA as well as Wood Tux, Cabot's aussie, sikkens srd, penofin and messmer's UV. Russell, I will. I also have a strong feeling that WT will be a strong contender. Russ, how do you feel about the acetone prep?

Very nice Jon. About as close as you can get to a clear and still have some protection. Are you becoming Deck-Man?

Please.. Ed is not a chemist by any stretch. He has been asking for you by the way, he says he has his toothbrush ready. The problem with ipe, Jon, is that what makes it such a great wood (its density) is what makes it impervious to penetrating sealers. With all due respect to the Ready Seal followers, I put a sample of it down on a test board next to every other experiment I have out back. Unfortunately it is the one showing the most marked fading (after less than one month).

All customers initially want a clear. You should be forthcoming with the customer and let them know that is possible their deck will be graying by season's end especially if it has sun exposure. I have never done a clear for this reason. What happens is usually this. The deck looks great and the customer is happy. In thre months it begins to look a little grey. After the winter it will be completely gray and they will have long forgotten that initial joy they felt about your job and they will think you did something wrong. To compound the problem, if you use a good quality oil finish the customer would need to have the deck restripped. Noone ends up happy in this scenario. if you are familiar with Wood Tux I would dilute it 50% with water and you will get close to a clear but their will stil be enough quality pigmentation to heep the deck from prematurely graying. Apply some to a sample board and show the customer. It should be a relatively easy sell.

ESI's whole suite

Those MythBuster guys have NOTHING on you, Phillip. You know, the six beers may have had value. They did when I decided (at age 19) that shooting bottle rockets from every hole in my belt (while I wore it) would be amusing. The human roman candle trick cost me a week's worth of ointment and a nice little scar.

Newly applied and cured TWP will probably require stripping with a sodium hydroxide based stripper. We carry a product that is oxygen bleach based but is stronger. I cannot in good faith recommend it to you as I am 80% certain you need a real deal caustic stripper if you want to start again. Behr makes a stripper that sellls at Home Depot for about $10 per gallon. It is not a wonderful product compared to what many of us contractors here use professionally but it might do the trick for you. You may be best to live with the color for this season and start fresh next year by hiring a contractor to complete the task for you with proper prep and pH balance.

wow... long live QVC

Now Mike, you know the rules about using four letter words on these forums. Beth, I know your articles will be well written and will positively contribute to bettering our industry. Congrats on the appointment. Roving reporter Beth Borrego is on the scene!