sturgisjr

Thank you all so much for helping me here. I plan on taking pictures this week and I will definitely post them on here. Hopefully with the pictures, you could better offer feedback. Also, I will test some products on there this week as well so I know what I would need to do. I am almost postive that it is latex. How do I know for sure though? They want an oil based decking stain in the same white color applied. Would an oil work (only if I have sucessfully removed ALL of the paint/stain)? Or will I need to let the customer know we are going to need to do Latex? The Landscaping fabric sounds like a good idea.

Thats what I was thinking, but I didnt know if anyone would think that would be effective? And the ground below is all brick paving. There is almost no grass down below. would it be harder to control run-off into the lake because of this? I would have to go back and check on how much grass there is. So from what I have said about the rules around here, do you think I am safe to do it in that method of tying down tarp on the deck railings and then drop it and pull back under the deck and still be able to use HD-80 or F-18?? Thank you Ryan for helping me think here and your feedback. I would like to hear from others too.

Just to be clear... its not a dock. This is a deck that hangs over the lake about 1 to 2 feet out supported by 6 by 6 posts. Its a 2nd story deck with a walkout basement below. The length of the deck section that hangs over the lake is 30 feet.

As you have read above, I have a job I am starting in 2 weeks. I think I kind of know what I need to do, but I would really appreciate any ideas from anyone who has confronted a situation such as mine or similar. Did I mention this was a public lake? I can tell you that upon calling the County Government Center, The Public Health Department and the NYS Department of Environmental Conservation, No Permits are required in the State of NY. However, caution should be done to prevent any run-off of wastewater into the lake or nearby streams. Also on locations where a well is present, the structure to be washed must be at least 100' away from the well or at least downward from the well. No chemicals of any kind are permitted when restoring docks that are in the lake. Are there any other places I should call and check up on? I plan on making supports on the sides of the deck that I will tie up A LOT of tarp on and have it pulled back to the ground. That should prevent any run-off into the Lake? I really want to be sure I comply with the law and not have neighbors look over and think I am doing something Illegal and report me. I really would like to avoid fines. If stripping with HD-80 or F-18 is not the way to go, what would you do? I checked up on Removal 310, but this is an 1800 sq.ft. deck. They had to have time to think if they even wanted to spend the money to have it done (with HD-80 or F-18 that is). I doubt that want to spend a thousand more for Removall if I figured that right? Or is Sanding the way to go? But then, would I still need to call places about Lead??? I mentioned it was Latex paint that is on the deck. They want an Oil Decking Stain applied. Thats the reason for the complete strip or am I going to have to tell them that the best I can do is sand it smooth and apply another Latex based stain? PLEASE HELP!!! Thanks.

Thank you Russell... That's why I asked. I want to make sure I use all my products correctly. I will be in contact with you soon. APlus... That is a great result and your review on the boost encourages me to want to add it to my arsenal for a deck I am doing in 2 weeks.

Where are the pictures? I've never used Boost, just straight HD-80 or F-18. With a little patience and at least one more application after 30 minutes, it usually (from my experience) will take at least 90% off. I am debating on whether or not it (boost) will be an asset to me. If I use F-18, will the boost work with that? How much will it benefit me in terms of cost vs. time? I did a Behr Hunter Green Solid Stain Acrylic Deck last year and was able to put down WoodTux Warm Honey Gold and it looked great. That deck was the Masterpiece of my first year as a wood restoration professional and am doing several of these kinds of decks this season. So far, so good, but I still debate on whether or not to have the boost.

Is it called "NAVEL JELLY?" If I went out to a paint or hardware store, would someone know what I was talking about? Where can I get that? The dock stantions are the parts that are underwater. I know that there is no way any kind of paint even marine paint will last in there after long periods. Am I right? This is what I hear even from boat mariner companies. They say that rust proof enamel is the same thing and will produce similar results as a marine paint. Opinions??

Nice job there! I have a few questions...Did you do anything to prevent the chemicals and old layer of gunk from getting into the water? I have a job I am starting the end of this month... its a white latex sealed deck that needs to be stripped and I am using F-18 on it. This deck hangs slightly over the Lake and I am nervous about getting paint and chemicals in there. I was thinking of setting up posts in the water with tarp attached on them unless anyone else has a better Idea? Also, this was my first year doing a dock. Around here docks are installed in May and then taken out in October. It is a lot of work restoring them when they are out of the water. You need to find room for all the sections on the customers yard and do it from there. Has anyone had experience with 25 or more sections of dock per customer? I am trying to learn how to make dock restoration a more easier experience. Anyone have any suggestions? This one dock I am doing, the customer wants me to repaint her dock stantions. It was steel and had a bad case of rust and peeling paint. I used a wire brush attached to my sander to remove all the rough spots and to smooth them out. I plan on applying a rust proof enamel. Good idea?

Hello all... It has been a long time since I posted on here. Today is the first time I even got back onto this board and was way behind. Last Year I stripped off a Deck that had Green Acrylic on it from Behr. I was able to get a very good percentage off using HD-80 in its normal strength. I know that HD-80 is not formulated for that kind of stripping but it turned out great and the customer is very very pleased. Now... The new season is here and after reading on the boards, I am reading more and more of the miracles of HD-80. I have 2 jobs booked this month that gives me flashbacks on the green deck I did. I read somewhere that Beth did a blue latex deck and had much success... did you have a boost applied with that or straight HD-80? One deck I am doing this month is a white, I believe is latex and I know I keep hearing on the successes of HD-80 and I have seen proof through my own deck job using HD-80 but could it have just been luck? I am afraid to do this white deck. I always feel like ... Okay, what we did before was luck, this time it wont be. I plan on using HD-80, but what other products out there would work that is specially formulated for Acrylic and Latex paint? I read something about using Removall exterior paint stripper. Anyone have a comment on this? What about Severe Strip from SunBrite? The other job I am doing is a Dock. It was previously Applied with Sikkens Rubbol Deck and the customer said that it was supposed to last 10 to 12 years and it didn't. Will HD-80 remove that? I plan on sealing with Cabots Solid Coloe Decking Stain. Is that a good choice? One more thing... I am getting more calls from people who want their porch floors redone. I have one that I am starting and I have plans on just sanding it smooth. The customer wants the same color applied and it is Benjamin Moores Porch/Floor Enamel. If the previous paint was a latex and I am sanding it just so that is it smooth, I should re-paint it with an latex correct? Not an Alkyd Oil based Porch paint? I know this is a lot to discuss, but I would appreciate any thoughts and comments on this. This is my second year and although last year was successful, I am still pretty much nervous and want to get off to a good start. Thanks!

Okay, I think my post was maybe too long and had too many things to discuss so I will just mention what my main question is. I was able to read on other posts and got some really good information and feedback. What I still want to know is.... What would you do with a green covered porch floor? I think it is Latex based but how do you know for sure? The Customer wants it re-painted in the same Hunter Green color, you know, to keep it looking good. He wanted an Alkyd Oil paint applied but I told him that if it was latex, we cant do that. He was fine with that and will accept a Latex paint. I will be using Benjamin Moores Porch Paint. What would you do to prepare for the re-application? All I was thinking of was to sand it smooth since its the same color. Am I making a mistake here and should be stripping it instead? Thanks in advance for your replies.

Think F-18 would work on a peeling white latex deck? what strength would you use? How does the F-18 and HD-80 compare in quantity and price? I still have some Citrallic brightener from extreme solutions and wondered if I could use what I have left of that after stripping with F-18. It seems that the F-8 is not on the Pressure Teks Online Store.

I am curious about the TimberPro products as well. I was wondering if they were exactly like HD-80, EFC-38 or like the F series. Are the TimberPro products exactly like that, just with a fancy TimberPro label? I will appreciate a response. Thanks!

A friend sent me this via e-mail: We're about to enter the peak of the hurricane season in Florida. If you're new to the area, you're probably wondering what you need to do to prepare for the possibility that we'll get hit by "the big one." Based on our experiences, we recommend that you follow this simple three-step hurricane preparedness plan: STEP 1. Buy enough food and bottled water to last your family for at least three days. STEP 2. Put these supplies into your car. STEP 3. Drive to Nebraska and remain there until Thanks- giving. Unfortunately, statistics show that most people will not follow this sensible plan. Most people will foolishly stay here in Florida. We'll start with one of the most important hurricane preparedness items: HOMEOWNERS' INSURANCE: If you own a home, you must have hurricane insurance. Fortunately, this insurance is cheap and easy to get, as long as your home meets two basic requirements: (1) It is reasonably well-built, and... (2) It is located in Nebraska. Unfortunately, if your home is located in Florida, or any other area that might actually be hit by a hurricane, most insurance companies would prefer not to sell you hurricane insurance, because then they might be required to pay YOU money, and that is certainly not why they got into the insurance business in the first place. EVACUATION ROUTE: If you live in a low-lying area, you should have an evacuation route planned out. (To determine whether you live in a low-lying area, look at your driver's license; if it says "Florida", you live in a low-lying area.) The purpose of having an evacuation route is to avoid being trapped in your home when a major storm hits. Instead, you will be trapped in a gigantic traffic jam several miles from your home, along with two hundred thousand other evacuees. So, as a bonus, you will not be lonely. Of course these are just basic precautions. As the hurricane draws near, it is vitally important that you keep abreast of the situation by turning on your television and watching TV reporters in rain slickers stand right next to the ocean and tell you over and over how vitally important it is for everybody to stay away from the ocean. Good luck, and remember: It's great living in Paradise (a.k.a. "The Sunshine State").

I bid on a job that has Behr Hunter Green Acrylic and I told them it can be removed. I plan on using HD-80 and they want Warm Honey Gold. I got the job and the deposit, but now I am being bothered thinking that it is not going to work getting the Behr off. I hope it does, for the customers and my reputations sake. No, I did not do a test patch (wished I did) and it was applied 2 years ago by the homeowner. He did the prep job beforehand but he also said that there was still mildew and greying after the cleaning and he just stained right over it. The floors of the deck are peeling terribly but the verticals are fine. Please tell me that HD-80 will take it off! Or tell me what I can do. Encouragement will be appreciated. Thanks

Yes, I used HD-80 - without the booster. There were few leftover stains and needed to be sanded. As for the trellis, I didnt do them since they plan on taking those down anyway. Whew! :) I was there all day today sanding. It will take another full day to sand and then its off to Warm Honey Gold. Well.... now they are thinking about a two-tone. I hope not! This was hard enough. We will see. The homeowners asked for a whole bunch of business cards and will distribute them to everyone they know. They said that they have never seen such a great result and are very pleased with the hard work put into it. When the project is complete, I will of course, post the final pictures for you all. Thank you for your encouragement and feedback during this process. I feel more confident each day as a wood restoration professional and have found this is going to be a continuing adventure. Beth...good news on the WoodTux! Keep me posted.

Okay...here we go! I stripped the deck which took me Wednesday and Thursday with long dwell times. I went back today when it was dry to sand. I think it worked out really well..what do you think? I have attached pictures here. The homeowner is extremely impressed and still wants the woodtux warm honey gold. I know you (beth) said that a darker semi trans would be better or a solid as everyone has been saying, but I wonder that now you see the results, what do you think? The homeowner and myself are still discussing color choices. They were so impressed, they wanted a clear. When they bought the house, the deck was green so when they wanted to maintain it, they tried stripping and failed miserably. Thats the reason why they went and got green stain to go right over it. So you can imagine how thrilled they are with my results so far. I am told that WoodTux Warm Honey Gold is still not available anywhere :( I guess I would need to use the Aussie Timber Oil in Amberwood. (that is providing the light color is a possible good choice with my results thus far) I am pretty happy about the results, but want to hear from y'all profressionals. This was my first solid stain removal in my first season.

For next year, I will be better prepared and get bigger orders of woodtux so that I always have something available for a job. This was my first year and it has been a struggle trying to get woodtux, especially in Warm Honey Gold. The alternative that I will offer is Cabots. Can anyone tell me which Cabots will very well be close to the Woodtux colors. I have a couple of decks to do but do not know when I can have the woodtux and I don't want to make my customers wait. Thanks

I went and got a sample done on my board with the amberwood Australian Timber Oil and is a VERY excellent match in color with the Wood Tux Warm Honey Gold. This is more expensive and I wanted to know how durable it is compared to Wood Tux. What woodtux's product guarantee? 3 to 4 years? How does it compare to the Australian Timber Oil? I have customers asking if I have a guarantee and I just tell them 3 to 4 years on the product. But the question I am not sure to answer is...how long is my work guaranteed? I'm thinking it would be the same as the product guarantee? I read on the Timber Oil can that you should reseal every 1 or 2 years. I am trying to figure out how to set up my maintenence program and would appreciate anyone helping me. When should a reseal, cleaning, and redo be done? Remember, I use Woodtux, Cabots (when needed), HD-80, EFC-38 and Citrallic. Thank you very much.

I have only been able to offer woodtux to my customers and the more I am in this field, the more I realize I may have to steer select customers toward a Solid Stain (as is the possible case with my current Hunter Green Behr deck) Can anyone tell me what the best Solid Stains are? I want to use Cabots and when using a solid stain, do you need to prime too? I prefer a 2 coat process, not a 3 coat (I work alone). I have a deck to do in which I need to do the railings white. I would use a cabots white solid stain after priming and not an acrylic based paint? What about Deckscapes, I hear its a 2 coat process. I want to be able to give my customers the possibility of stripping the solids off later if they ever want to do something different and I want an easy product to be able to do this that is also very good in its durabilty too. Any feedback will be appreciated.

I have told the homeowner that a Solid Stain will need to be put into consideration. I am still waiting to hear on their response to that. I have thought about sanding any leftover stain if the HD-80 doesnt work as I'd like it to. I am still learning and this is my first challenging deck and I want to please the customer. I may have underbid this job, but I am using this as a learning experience. The homeowners have been pretty patient with me, but I am still waiting to hear if they still want me to do the job. Before they realized that I had these services to offer, they were thinking of replacing the deck floors with trex decking and leaving all the verticals green. Will sanding do the job? I realize that this will take up a lot of time and may not be worth it to some of you, but I would like to be the person who can do it. Besides, these homeowners were referred to by good friends of mine.

If Cabots Solid Decking Stain is self-priming, that would mean whatever color is being used, I apply that color twice? That would mean I need to buy double of any color to be used? In the case of railings and spindles, you would follow the same methods? I prefer to offer oil-based stains and not water based. Water based stains ... I don't feel too confident. Does anyone share that preference? How does this compare to using Problem Solver primer and then applying 2 top coats of "the Finish" from cabots? I beleive I read that this method is guaranteed to last up to 10 years??

Cabots has a few versions of Solid Stains and I am stumped with which one to use. Solid Color Decking Stain (I think this is the one I want to use?) O.V.T Solid Color Stain PRO. V.T. Professional Solid Color Stain Which would give me the ability to strip easier if customer ever wanted to change the look later? Before application of a Solid Color Stain, I should prime with Cabots Problem Solver Primer? What about Cabots The Finish? How does that compare to the Solid Color Decking Stain? How good are the Semi-Solids from Cabot? Would this work on my Behr deck Im working on if all the green doesnt come out? Just curious.

I have a deck to do in mid-September which is a one year old structure. Customer wants a 2-tone done and I was wondering if any kind of cleaning was needed. The deck was allowed to weather for a year and has never been stained. Thanks.

4th and 5th pictures

Okay, here it is. I went this morning and did a test patch. I have 5 pictures total... first one being the can of Behr, 2nd and 3rd (before and after of the floor) and 4th and 5th (before and after of the verticals). I think I let it dwell about 30 to 45 minutes. It seems that the verticals came off easier than the floor, but I think its doable. Please let me know what you all think. Homeowner saw the test patch and thinks we should go ahead.