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About ERADicator

  • Rank
    TGS Member
  • Birthday 05/23/1951

Profile Information

  • Company Name
  • First & Last Name
    Doug Clark
  • City & State
    Bristol, ME
  • Occupation
    Graffiti abatement
  1. I always thought the paint in paintballs was supposed to be water-soluble, at least in the ones used for the competitive events, since it gets on clothing. Maybe the glop sticking to whatever was vandalized is the gel of the capsule (ball)? Now I'm going to have to go look at the railroad crossing signals and metal bungalow that were hit a few months ago, and see if Mother Nature took that stuff off, or if I'm going to have to finish the removal. By the way, the responsible parties were caught, and were made to write a letter of apology to the railroad company. (Whoop-dee-flippin'-doo. :rolleyes: ) I have a big jug of unused paintballs around here somewhere. (Part of an experiment to keep squirrels out of the bird feeders. Mixed results.) Maybe I'll contact the manufacturer and see if they have any suggestions.
  2. Paint removal from trailer

    Richard, did you get the rest of that crap off of there? The second picture looks pretty good, especially considering the mess that was there at the beginning.
  3. Salem witches - a rediscovery - Eureka!

    More good detective work, Daniel. I had to look twice at the photo credit for Frank Cousins; I thought it was your county sheriff until I saw the date of the photo. I guess it was somewhat before his time. ;) BTW, I work with a guy who is a descendant of Susannah Martin. I don't think Cotton Mather and those other ministers and "judges" were too swift. That story reads like a deadly serious version of a certain scene in Monty Python and the Holy Grail: Sir Bedevere: What makes you think she's a witch? Peasant 3: Well, she turned me into a newt! Sir Bedevere: A newt? Peasant 3: [meekly after a long pause] ... I got better. Crowd: [shouts] Burn her anyway!
  4. Salem witches - a rediscovery - Eureka!

    That's the guy. He's done a lot of research on old RR right-of-ways. I bet he'll have some good info. He's a pretty smart guy, but he can "talk the handle off a [chamber]pot." ;) Happy huntin'.
  5. Salem witches - a rediscovery - Eureka!

    Daniel, I know a Scott Currier who is a history buff. Haven't seen him in years, but he lived over Ward Hill way, last I knew. Hope this helps narrow it down.
  6. Goodbye graffiti

    Nice work, Mike. I have a small jar of ES that I got a few weeks ago. Waiting to try it on some particularly offensive graff under a bridge. It's a tough location to get to with any amount of water, but I'll give it a shot. Might be a good chance to let the little germs know that "we're not gonna take it." :spidey:
  7. I was just reading a discussion about how Canada has used something similar to the UK sign "NO OVERTAKING" (fig. 632, bottom left) and about a proposed symbolic sign in the 2009 U.S. manual. Not immediately replacing any current signs, but adding them over time. Not that I ever plan to drive in Mexico, but figuring out the picture sign might be easier than trying to remember what "NO REBASE CON RAYA CONTINUA" means. ("Do not pass with a continuous line.") I think I'll stick to cleaning up (and trying to prevent) sign "tagging." :rolleyes2
  8. I was still noticing some "shadow" on the yellow part, probably from overspray. The vandal's "picture" was the obvious part when I first went after the graff with the Max Swipes, and once that was gone, the shadow became more noticeable. I could also see places on the black, mostly the arrow, where it looked like there was black paint left behind. Those spots seemed less shiny than the rest of it. Maybe something in the solvent/carrier raised hell with it. Went up there the other night, and could really see places down the sides where the yellow wasn't as reflective. This pic was up close, with flash. I took another one from farther back, with mostly just headlights illuminating it, and the shadow was even more obvious. "UNacceptable." Took one more shot at it yesterday, and I think it's finally up to my standards. A mist of Smooth Max, a little dwell time, a little agitation, and a little more volume and pressure for the water rinse. ("I will not obsess. I will not obsess. I will not . . . ") I imagine you guys have the Canadian version of the Manual on Uniform Traffic Control Devices. It's in there that the Federal Highway Administration has specs about how signs have to retain their reflectivity when wet; the newer grades of reflective sheeting may also clean up easier than the older materials. That would be a Good Thing. :cool:
  9. I will; I'll try to get some flash pics of it tonight.I think the yellow part of that sign is one sheet of 3M™ Engineer Grade Reflective Sheeting or something similar. The black parts also appear to be vinyl, so maybe Maine DOT (or their supplier, if it wasn't made in-house) use some process other than silk-screening. Were the wipes you tried any of the biodegradable ones? (A big selling point for Max Swipes and a few other brands.)
  10. Yesterday I encountered a job that I thought would be perfect for Max Swipes from Graffiti Solutions. I was right! :cool: I don't know when I last saw that road sign "unvandalized," so I don't know how long the paint had been on it. It only took a little dwell time for the paint to start lifting off the yellow substrate. I think the reflective sheeting is vinyl, so that probably helped. About ten minutes after I broke out the first Max Swipe, the vandalism was gone to the level shown in the pic below. There were parts of it I couldn't reach from the ground, so I'll have to go back and finish it up. I also want to make sure there's no "shadow" left by the dissolved paint. The black paint seemed to stick to the black parts of the sign better than it did to the yellow. I want to check it after dark sometime, but I'm pretty sure the Smooth Max (the stuff that saturates the Swipes) didn't adversely affect the reflectivity of the sign in any way. I didn't have my gallon jug of Graf-Ex with me, and haven't tried Tagaway yet, but I like the way the Max Swipes worked. I'm sure I'll have future jobs to try all three products, and maybe do some side-by-side comparisons. To paraphrase the Surfaris: "Ha ha ha ha ha . . . Swipe out!" :D
  11. cemetery markers

    As I understand it, marble is an alkaline material, so acids will raise merry hell with it, but chlorine is an oxidant and ClO− is a weak base. I've seen one recommendation for a poultice of hydrogen peroxide (6% solution) for removing organic stains on marble, or even a chlorine bleaching-powder poultice to remove a urine stain on marble. (Okay, you've heard that expression about "____ing on someone's grave"?) "Chlorine bleach" is sodium hypochlorite, "bleaching powder" is calcium hypochlorite. The Ca(ClO)2 has greater available chlorine than the NaClO. "Test on a small inconspicuous area before applying hog-wild." :D
  12. Message to the Cosmos

    I looked at the image first, and got something about "the pause that refreshes." Is that right? :D
  13. Since a lot of people here dislike graffiti as much as I do and have way more experience with coatings, chemicals, etc. than I do, I thought this would be a good place to ask this. A request for information that just came over the Nograf Network maillist: "We see a new kind of graffiti that has a brownish color that etches itself into the hard coat layer of films.Rumor says that it is a silver oxide type of mix. Graffiti remover gels only has very limited effect. Do you recognize this type of graffiti?" Hmm . . . :confused: Acid etching, "fire tagging," and now this. :mad:
  14. Graffiti removal

    Richard, those are some good things to consider when setting a price. Thanks for the ideas. :cool:
  15. Graffiti removal

    I think that sq. ft. rate is about right. You could adjust it according to how difficult a job is--height above ground (some taggers like to "get up" in what they call "heavens"), etc. Maybe go to the upper end of the scale if somebody did a previous "paint over" attempt, and the customer wants that gone, too.* A minimum "call out" fee will also help pay for your fuel and time to get to a job, plus the Taginator and other supplies kept on hand while waiting for the jobs to roll in. For a tag that's small but really annoying to the customer, something they want "gone, now," I might charge a first-time customer just the call-out fee if there's not a lot of time (travel and work) involved. *I saw a sign at an auto repair place a few years ago: "Labor rate, $40 per hour. If you watch: $42 per hour. If you 'help': $46 per hour. If you 'already worked on it': $50 per hour." :D