decker

Using a 12x18 square floor sander on PT and it's leaving swirl marks. Have tried, 60,80 and even 120 grit. No idea why this is happening. Tried it on multiple PT decks all with the same result. I tried it on cedar and it was much better, but still left some marks. Really weird. Any ideas on why this is happening?

Ya, the 120 was just out of curiousity. No idea what's going on with the machine, except this is damn annoying.

Was wondering if anyone had experience using Messmer's stain on cedar or PT.

I find getting in between the boards is the most time consuming and frustrating part of the whole process. Was wondering what tools anyone uses that speeds things up?

Daniel, What is your experience with applying this product? From my understanding its a 2 coat wet on damp system. How long do you usually wait for it to get 'damp'? What kind of brushes and pads have you tried on it? Will report on my results.

I seem to be getting quite a few calls this year for pergolas. I can't figure out how to stain the top of these things, as it seems impossible to access. I do all my staining with brush and pad. I figured I could stick a brush/pad on an extension pole, but it would still be very difficult and time consuming to do the top part of the pergola. I guess the main issue is accessing the middle part of the pergola and doing all the detail work (like the side of the 1x2s that lay across the top). Any tips/advice? How would you price these?

Adam, The 2x12s can only sit on the 1x2, so are you saying to put the 2x12s on top of the 1x2s only in places where there are support beams underneath? Rick, I saw the paint booth Shane makes. Looks pretty awesome. I don't think that's a possibility for me though. Spraying would be lovely for this job, but I have never sprayed before so I don't think it would be a time to start on a difficult project like this one.

Great idea Adam! Just to make sure I understand, you're saying to line 2 boards up across the longer side of the pergola? My only question is wouldn't I want to line them up with the grain so I can get an entire 1x2 stained in one shot, as opposed to doing parts of each 1x2?

Looking at staining one side of a standard PT staggered fence, with lattice on top - any way to do this without staining the neighbours' sides? I am mainly concerned about the lattice because I know there will be some tiny drips, at least.

Is anybody using adwords? I want to try to target commercial or large resi jobs (not wood though) and was wondering if anyone had success with this.

Customer just asked me to use this product. They bought a whole bunch of it and think it's. I have never used a water-based stain. How much coverage does it have compared to an oil based? Deck is PT. What's it like to work with. My preference would be to use an oil based product. But not sure how to approach them because they think this stuff is great. Any ideas or input?

yum. I hope so. I just have to contend with the plastic rails surrounding the thing!

I have a deck that I am going to strip with this stuff on it...so what I gather it's not a difficult strip? Should I be concerned about any leftover residue or flaking?

The HO wants me to put on new stain on the horizontals but not the verticals - the horizontal mostly flaked or peeled off. There's a light tinted stain on there now, but most of it peeled off. They want a clear stain again, so I figure I will be back there next year to reapply, regardless of which route I choose. The HO wants me to sand and stain, instead of strip/sand/stain because...he wants to save money (surprise)!! My concern about the sand/stain route is that the stain won't get fully absorbed and it will peel or what not - what do you guys think?

we got great woods. I would be very interested in trying out ready seal, but I am assuming there are some VOC issues in getting it over the border.

unfortunately we dont have ready seal in canada! I am going to look into some clear stains that will fit the bill in terms of looks and maintenance. I was thinking sikkens, seal king or sansin. It is really a matter of finding the right tone that fits the rest of the deck.

Stain is oil based, ici wood pride. I am gonna go do some tests this week to see how easy it comes off. Customers usually listen to my advice not to put on a clear, so I don't have to deal with complaints that it didn't last, etc...There are bunch of other services I can sell to the HO, so that's mainly why I am interested. Either way, I already told the HO I would be back next year to reapply, so I'll go from there I suppose.

Hi Charlie, It is a unique deck, so masking/tarping it would be some work. The verticals on the deck wouldn't be a big problem to mask, and they are stained the same colour. But the deck is about 20 or so feet off the ground, surrounded by a lattice skirt that is around 40 feet in length and the lattice is a solid white stain with posts that have clear stain on it. The reason I prefer sanding is that masking would be difficult and incurs some risk. Because of that, I wouldn't mind sanding even if it took a bit longer. There is the risk that stripper gets on parts it shouldn't - obviously I would do my best to tarp everything off, but its going to be dripping down underneath and over the sides, so I am concerned about being able to full shield everything. Cons to sanding: Getting in between the boards - very good point. Will the new stain absorb properly. I do not want to have it flake and peel, so I want to make sure I get it nicely prepped for the new stain to full absorb. My main concern is ensuring the it doesn't flake or peel - do you do yearly maintenance for people who want the clear sealer? What does it look like after one year usually? I am going to do a test tomorrow to see how easily it comes off with sanding. The only other option I can think of is using a cleaner instead of stripper, as I wouldn't have to worry about masking off all the lattice.

How long would you wait to stain an ipe after rain? I have a moisture meter, but it's difficult to penetrate the ipe. It dries out pretty quick, so I figured next day should be fine as long as it's sunny and hot...like its been.

ya it does dry real quick. Too bad it was threatening rain when I was about to stain it!

Go with CIL. I have used their solid oil stain with success, but no idea about latex. I don't like latex. Prepping your pt should be fine with a bleach solution. I can't comment about the efficacy of their wood prep products, but I am wary of any 2 in 1 type of product. Do yourself a favour and check out a local paint shop. a 2 part prep for cedar would be a sodium percarbonate based cleaner, followed by an oxalic acid based brightener. The truth of the matter is, that most stores are selling the same thing under a different brand name.

I wanted to try cedar plank salmon on the BBQ, so I check out the cedar planks at the grocery store - $$$ and it was full of splinters. I figure I could just go to HD and pick up some cedar sand it down and be ok. Check out the comment section here: Cedar Plank Grilled Salmon|The BBQ Report Is it safe to cook on cedar from HD? It shouldn't be treated with anything, so I figure it should be good to go.

Sounds too good to be true. Couldn't find much info on their site in terms of what the product is made from. Just wondering if anyone had used this product and what their experience was. Lifetime Wood Treatment - Eco-Friendly, Non-Toxic Wood Treatment that lasts a LIFETIME!

Beige Olympic solid, acrylic latex two coats peeled after a year. Stripped twice, didn't do much damage. Sanded down most of it, but there are still small pieces around. Going with a solid oil, but just wondering how the spots which have the cursed hell stain will look and last if they are stained over.

im going solid oil. definitely undercharged, and worst part is the HO said he was gonna stain himself because he doesn't want to spend the money...but now tells me he's gonna pay a painter!