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Craig

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Posts posted by Craig


  1. Craig: what about brick that is surfaced colored. Talking about the bricks that are treated or colored after they're fired or baked. Not exactly sure of the process but acids WILL remove that coating. I had to pay $500 for a company that specializes in matching existing brick to come fix our (technicin's boo boo, I would have tested first) boo boo.

    Any experience with this?

    Acids like HCL or HF not good for that. F9 will work. The only colored stuff we need to be careful of is poorly mixed colored concrete or pavers that are not strong. They use iron oxides in the mix that can get pulled out of the substrate hydrated too quickly. A weak bond between color and surface can be pulled out.


  2. Good question - This customer had a lime faced brick, meaning pressure or heavy chems may/will remove the surface. These pics were 5 years ago and I am working on the neighbors now and noticed it looks much worse. They had since replaced the steel chimney cap and I would like to go back to pick them up again. I was going to use the Saferestore / OneRestore but we decided then it was not worth taking the chance.

    F9 on that all the way. 1:2 ratio, barely mist it on.. call me if you need further help. Easy.


  3. Craig: what about brick that is surfaced colored. Talking about the bricks that are treated or colored after they're fired or baked. Not exactly sure of the process but acids WILL remove that coating. I had to pay $500 for a company that specializes in matching existing brick to come fix our (technicin's boo boo, I would have tested first) boo boo.

    Any experience with this?

    Ryan, so many variables here. Was it F9 you used or another chem?


  4. It's always good to not put all of your eggs in one basket. For F9, we have many target markets that can use the cleaner. With that said, my primary alliance is with keeping the product for professional application only. Whether this be through our F9 Professional Applicator network, contractors or maintenance department training. This keeps the product in the hands of the most capable companies and who are worth the time investment of training, technical seminars, online videos etc.

    Also, since I own a pressure washing business and it is something I thoroughly enjoy, I feel good about giving information and leads to companies who are truly appreciative of the information and receptive to learning new applications and techniques.


  5. That's what HF is, it takes rust off in about 7 seconds. 8-10 bucks a gallon and a gallon makes 5 gallons cleaning solution

    Mathew Johnson

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    HF can be dangerous stuff if not handled properly. F9 is not HF, does not contain any EPCRA section 313 chemicals, has no halogenated hydrocarbons, is biodegradable and will not bioaccumulate.

    I do agree that HF can make a great rust remover as well as Oxalic but users of these chems need to be aware of the dangers with unbuffered or uninhibited acids. When handling and using these types of chems, always wear an acid-gas respirator, gloves, boots, eye protection and full body protection.

    As usual and even when using any acid (or caustic) based chems we would recommend the use of rubber gloves, boots, eye protection and skin protection.


  6. I have never used anything that cleaned this easy. It's a buffered acid IIRC. I have tried ox, muratic, etc, but nothing was this simple and such good results

    I've been through them all too, which is what inspired me to keep working on F9 through the years. I can't tell you the 1000's of tweaks we've made to make this work for us and our environment. Our clients are very picky here and we've made them all very happy with our cleaning techniques and how clean we can get things.

    I'm glad we've come to a point where we can help others get the same results!


  7. Speaking of application, how did you apply the F9? Truck brush on extension pole? Pump spray bottle?

    By the way, great results!

    Here are the application vids.

    How to remove battery stains on a driveway

    How to remove rust on pavers

    How to remove rust stains on concrete from metal

    How to remove rust stains on stucco

    How to spray from control joint to control joint

    How to dissolve the crystals in a BARC bottle

    What kind of sprayer should I use

    The difference between white and orange battery stains

    F9 Applicator Video

    Acid wash pool


  8. F9 appears to be everything the claims say it is. Probably the hottest cleaning chemical on the market right now. We used it a couple of times and it worked exactly as advertised.

    If you use F9 report back to us how it worked for you so other contractors who visit here get an excellent product to add to their cleaning arsenal:)

    Thanks, John. Our philosophy is to always under promise and over deliver. F9 is the Ferrari of restoration chems and I take it into battle with me often! .. And we win :)


  9. So these aggregates that produced silica gel...like whats in tge shoe boxes?...what are they? I thought concrete was made with agregate n portland...so there's a specific stone or rock that produces this? What is that rock called..I imagine thats what they were looking for intge core samples. .. so if we see this happening ...remove the staining. .and attempted to put a protective coating. .do you think an impregnating non film forming sealer would still increase the back pressure of these pop outs. . Thanks for posting this

    The silica in shoe boxes is different than the reactive aggregates sometimes found in concrete. What you are referring to in shoe boxes is silica sand. The reactive aggregates in concrete are mostly formed from argillite, greywacke, chert, quartzite, opal and strained quartz crystals. The reactive rocks are supposed to be screened for at the quarry but sometimes make it through.

    In the core samples all we looked for was silica gel.. no need to diagnose the rocks. Once we know that there is a reaction between the hydroxyl ions in the alkaline cement pore solution and a reactive form of silica in the aggregate, then case closed.

    So, as far as sealer goes there are some lithium sealers that work fairly well. These are super expensive and no one would be willing to pay for it in the work that we do.. like upwards of $200 a square foot. If you put down a breathable penetrating sealer it can help to slow down the reaction but most still have a 2% vapor transmission rate so water vapor can still escape. Basically, if you run across this type of concrete you can clean it but that's about it. A penetrating sealer will help and you can even tint it, but within a short time the aggregates will release their fluid and still permanently stain the penetrating sealer.

    If you want to learn more, here is a 90 page article on the basics of ACR's: http://books.google.com/books?hl=en&lr=&id=p8--3BiBbYMC&oi=fnd&pg=PP1&dq=alkali+silica+reactive+aggregates&ots=TDKVnWWmuK&sig=912i9YE1ieo3rm57qJccSsP_hrs#v=onepage&q=alkali%20silica%20reactive%20aggregates&f=false


  10. If you were a PWRA member you could see this one.

    It was really good and really expensive!

    eMyth: How to Sell When You Hate Selling

    We also added today:

    eMyth: Leaders Go First

    eMyth: The Right Training For Your Brand

    That's great, Thad. Kristopher, there are quite a few selling books, audio tapes, web things etc that can help you too. I'd recommend to look into the art of selling type books and little by little, apply what you learn to every new customer. Pay close attention to what they need and don't over sell your services. Ultimately, people buy because they like, trust and respect you. These are key points. Find a way to relate to your customer and find common ground and interests. Many times you can close a deal and never even really talk about the job! After talking to them a while, gain their trust...be yourself... then tell them the price and give them a date with a couple times you can be there.

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