Craig

The neutralizer I use is much more than slight. If I were to use no neutralizer my ph runs from 2.6 to 3.8 combined with the water from my surface cleaners. I would rather run my waste water slightly more basic than acidic. The alkalinity of my waste water depends on how strong I mix my neutralizer and how thick I spray it on.

It is a little bit of an exaggeration but with the proper setup and hot water, using clean and capture equipment definately helps the concrete dry faster and more importantly promotes a cleaner product. Also, it is the only way to prevent chemicals from running into the grass. If you are going to do any serious cleaning with acid based chems the setup with clean and capture is the only way. It's a bit faster if you have lots of control joints or are working on porous aggregates, but slower if the concrete is pretty smooth. Only some situations you can get away with just using the surface cleaner and rinsing. With acid based chems you need to know what they are or you could be faced with some serious damage to grass and plants. Using clean and capture helps in the neutralization of the cleaning solutions. With just a normal surface cleaner you push the chems to the side (and into grass etc. The neutralizer stays on the top and does not properly mix with the acid. The extra aggitation provided by the recovery surface cleaner plus the water generated by the process creates a neutralized waste water product in your tank..(actually the PH comes in around 7.8 to 8.4 on a 5.6 gpm).... a much more controlled process and cleaner product. There are no chemicals to wick back into the sides of the substrate. Now, if you are just cleaning with detergents, degreasers etc, that is a different story. Clean and go. Rinse it good and the sealer will bond just fine.

Well all be darned. This is almost exactly the same thing we are doing. The only difference is that we are not using colors yet but will in the next few months. We also are experts at removing mineral stains, providing a beautiful new surface and sealing it appropriately. We increase slip resistance and help companies in the prevention of slip/fall situations.

If the brick is rough use a broom to remove them. Once they get wet on a rough surface they stick and become a PITA to remove. You can broom them first and then wash if you want or need to. We have done jobs and cut our time in half just by brooming them off.

When I first started I pulled my trailer with a 2003 Lincoln Navigator. I had the 5.4 V8. It pulled the trailer just fine and was nice to have the load leveling suspension. Since then I have gotten a V8 F-150, works great. I bought my E-350 two years ago and it pulls pretty well. Last year I added a 2006 F-250 diesel and it truly kicks butt. If I were you, I'd buy a diesel F-250. It will outpull the navigator, is just as fast and much better on gas mileage. If you get a crew cab it has plenty of room. You'll find that it really bites when you spill chems in your Navigator, plus the smell. The bed is great to have in a truck and it's classy to roll around town in. Just put some 22's on it and you're ready to roll.

Daniel, Maybe this will help your understanding.. WikiAnswers - How much does one gallon of water weigh And for what it's worth please keep your name calling to yourself and in check. We try to keep it as professional as possible in here. Your cooperation and control is appreciated. Thanks.

I have one just like it but in Red. It was the best purchasing decision of my life. It's my sportscar, going-out vehicle (when I wash it) and my work truck. I LOVE it.

HELLO...this is his eyecatcher.He is probably a great salesperson and RARELY has a job exactly like his ad. With an ad like this you have to upsell. I doubt if he is going to 15 houses a day and doing his ad job. We did over 1/2 Mil our first year in business and NONE of my time was wasted crying over other peoples ads. It comes down to sales, guys.

Absolutely NOT! I can't believe this guy would even have the nerve to ask you to train him. What are we, some giant daycare? He's gotta go out and EARN his stripes. If he is not resourceful enough to get his training elsewhere he is not going to make it in business anyway. I would not give away such valuable resources. If you decide to train him it WILL bite you somewhere along the line. Why give someone else food off of your table when you've worked so hard for it. If you feel generous donate money to a good cause. Don't donate your livelyhood.

You can do just about anything with the right amount of HCL, water, neutralizer, surface cleaner adjustment and reclaim. I wouldn't recommend it for everyone- takes a lot of time to learn. It definately has its applications. Otherwise I use products from: Delco Eacochem V-Seal I can also say that if you use the right products the most psi you'll ever need to clean is about 1500.

Have a great time! I just got back from two weeks in Northern Wisconsin.. fishing, hiking, bear/deer/eagle watching. What a relaxing time.. Enjoy it, it goes way too quick.

It's big money. I've done several jobs with stone lately but can only do the somewhat lighter jobs. Cleaning and sealing go for around 2-3/ft here. It's definately worth the investment. Hey Ken, business is good. We are as busy as we want to be! Hard to find good work and I've downsized a bit since last year for good reasons. I like it much better now. We had 4 rigs going last summer doing 10-25 jobs a day. It got kind of out of control. Time to regroup.

I signed up today... Thank you!

Nice freakin truck!

Alan, Nice truck. I don't see a diesel sign by the fender though... You will get around 6-9 mpg in the gas, 10-11 in the diesel (towing) and 15-18 (not towing). If it's not a diesel my suggestion would be to find one.. they can always dealertrade for you.

from my experience the stain will be permanent. It's just like getting acid on the stucco- it will be a little darker than the original. Get it as clean as you can and then a "patch and match" stucco guy needs to refog it.

Happy Birthday!

Anyone know or use surface cleaners larger than 38"? What's the biggest surface cleaner out there I can buy?

Thankyou!

Jon- have you considered raising the deck height and putting 25 degree nozzles on? I've done this with my Hydrotwisters to make 'em go a little faster. Works well if you have 3500 psi or higher. 3000 is a little weak but it can still work. I have also angled the nozzles steeper in to the concrete. The bar will spin faster allowing you to go faster. and it's good to be back! Craig

Michael- that video is almost exactly what I was thinking. Thanks! Steve- the biggest one you should be using is around a 27", I think. I will be running 16 GPM total- enough to power two 38" machines. The video Michael posted is almost exact to the drawing I had made of the two 38" hooked together. Thanks for the info guys Craig

I had to hold off due to some personal matters. He doesn't make them any more. Hydrotek has 38" and I might hook two of them together with a custom made device if I can't find a little bigger one out there. P.S. I'm putting together a better website, but thanks. :^)

You'll be fine. Wear glasses when you mix your chems though. Oxalic in the eyes doesn't feel too great either. Live and learn... Craig

The Home Depot one works OK, but if you are spraying HCL (Muriatic) then you'd better get a 3M 6000 or 7000 series. They run from $119 to $239 retail, but good deals on eBay for less than half that. Figure out what cartridges to use for your specific type of chemical. If you use the HD for spraying HCL. Beware! You won't be able to tell if they are leaking and I'm telling you from experience... coughing out your lung and losing your voice for a week is not fun from acid inhalation. It's worth paying the money for a good mask.

Hydrotek, either a 4.8 or 5.6 GPM. The 5.6 is 3500psi. You can go up to 8 if you want more cleaning power. My first machine was the 4.6 on wheels.