Craig
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Posts posted by Craig
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I don't think you're going to get it even if you try to pressure wash it... almost impossible unless your technique is picture perfect... and judging by the picture... So, I would try the brushing technique in a small section and go that route. Rinse LIGHTLY and from a distance.
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Above is good idea. I used to do that but only problem is that if you barely touch the tennis ball it pops out. REMEDY- tie a string through the ball and attach it to the handle. The other thing I got tired of using this technique is that you can't grip the gun very well. It's better than not doing anything at all though.
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VERY SIMPLE REMEDY
Get yourself a long piece of velcrow. Lowes and HD make a type that is long and thin, with the ability to tear them off in sections every 8" or so. If you wrap it in a circle around the trigger and handle when it's pulled.... then just slide it up to the crotch of the handle to release the trigger. Make the loop loose enough that you can slide it up and down easily. Pulling triggers is for beginners...
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If you are going to use Muriatic Acid on ANYTHING and you don't know what to charge, I don't feel you should be doing it PERIOD. Brick especially is more porous than concrete (generally) and using Hydrochoric acid (muriatic) takes a lot of getting used to, as well as what to neutralize it with, how much to use, recovering the neutralized acids and correct pressure washing after you are done. If your machinery is not adjusted properly and you don't wash it correctly you can leave nice surface cleaner marks. There are ways to do acid washing correctly and you can produce some amazing results with proper care and technique, but my feeling is that if you unfamiliar with that kind of work... stay away.
With that said, if you ARE familiar and know what you are doing... Acid washing brick, stone, masonry, concrete coatings etc. CAN be done. You usually want to seal the substrate after washing. V-Seal offers a number of sealers that work great.
House washing across the nation generally goes from .75-$1.50 per linear foot for one story, 1.50-2.50 for two stories and so on.
Acid washing runs from .75/ft-$2.00/ft.
Good luck.
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Tony.................
........................on the money.
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We charge .50-.75 per foot.
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i think it was from dultmeier but I'm not positive. I'll have to look into it.
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Alan,
The barell rusted out from the inside.. especially on the upper area around the rim.
I've changed brushes a couple of times, but I've noticed that over time the engine seems to lose power. I can get a new motor for like 25 bucks.
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What's up, Alan.
As you know you are the one who set mine up initially.. and it had worked great. It lasted for about two years before I finally had to replace it. Thank you~!
Since then, I have put 4 more together and currently I have three that are working. The heads wear out but replacements are pretty easy to put in. Actually, the 55 gallon barrell wears out faster than the heads do. I need to purchase a stainless steel one next time and I'm thinking about lining the inside of the rest of them with a polyurethane.
As far as power and versatility they are great. I have them mounted on my trailer whereas I can take them off as needed. for large inside jobs I can take them off, wheel the drum and generator inside and do work ANYWHERE with recovery.
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If you seriously go that long between trigger pulls then get a remote to turn off the rig. You'll save gas AND water.
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We change the hose when it breaks. I have used the in-the-field repair kits and they don't last very long. Our residential/new construction rig gets about a month before we need to replace hoses. The short life span is due to hoses constantly being pulled on dry concrete driveways, patios, etc.
Our commercial flatwork rig can get up to 6-8 months before replacing hoses. The asphalt is a much softer surface and doesnt have so much friction on the hoses. Also, most of the time the concrete is wet when they are being drug on them.
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you need to know exactly what you're doing with Muriatic (HCL), otherwise it's best to use a less dangerous chemical.
we've been doing acid washing for over two years now.. in the beginning stages I got sick pretty bad, even using a mask.
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Barry, thanks for the PM. I called the number but it was the wrong # for the H/0.
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Sorry, not for Residential unless there was a significant amount of work- Is it just a wash? Do you know how big the house is?
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We are in the initial stages of organizing a crime watch for our community. I live in a development with approx. 100 homes. I think the best way to keep everyone in touch with each other and what is happening (along with "Block Captains etc,) would be to put our community online. Similar to the BBS I am thinking that we can organize our development into street names as Forums and use threads to keep our information on topics.
Does anyone have input or done this before?
What would be the cost to put our community online and keep it maintained?
Any organizational information would be helpful.
Thanks.
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I think that if you just steam cleaned it, that would be enough.
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The neutralizer I use is much more than slight. If I were to use no neutralizer my ph runs from 2.6 to 3.8 combined with the water from my surface cleaners. I would rather run my waste water slightly more basic than acidic. The alkalinity of my waste water depends on how strong I mix my neutralizer and how thick I spray it on.
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It is a little bit of an exaggeration but with the proper setup and hot water, using clean and capture equipment definately helps the concrete dry faster and more importantly promotes a cleaner product. Also, it is the only way to prevent chemicals from running into the grass. If you are going to do any serious cleaning with acid based chems the setup with clean and capture is the only way. It's a bit faster if you have lots of control joints or are working on porous aggregates, but slower if the concrete is pretty smooth.
Only some situations you can get away with just using the surface cleaner and rinsing. With acid based chems you need to know what they are or you could be faced with some serious damage to grass and plants.
Using clean and capture helps in the neutralization of the cleaning solutions. With just a normal surface cleaner you push the chems to the side (and into grass etc. The neutralizer stays on the top and does not properly mix with the acid. The extra aggitation provided by the recovery surface cleaner plus the water generated by the process creates a neutralized waste water product in your tank..(actually the PH comes in around 7.8 to 8.4 on a 5.6 gpm).... a much more controlled process and cleaner product. There are no chemicals to wick back into the sides of the substrate.
Now, if you are just cleaning with detergents, degreasers etc, that is a different story. Clean and go. Rinse it good and the sealer will bond just fine.
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Well all be darned. This is almost exactly the same thing we are doing. The only difference is that we are not using colors yet but will in the next few months. We also are experts at removing mineral stains, providing a beautiful new surface and sealing it appropriately. We increase slip resistance and help companies in the prevention of slip/fall situations.
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If the brick is rough use a broom to remove them. Once they get wet on a rough surface they stick and become a PITA to remove. You can broom them first and then wash if you want or need to. We have done jobs and cut our time in half just by brooming them off.
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When I first started I pulled my trailer with a 2003 Lincoln Navigator. I had the 5.4 V8. It pulled the trailer just fine and was nice to have the load leveling suspension.
Since then I have gotten a V8 F-150, works great. I bought my E-350 two years ago and it pulls pretty well. Last year I added a 2006 F-250 diesel and it truly kicks butt.
If I were you, I'd buy a diesel F-250. It will outpull the navigator, is just as fast and much better on gas mileage. If you get a crew cab it has plenty of room. You'll find that it really bites when you spill chems in your Navigator, plus the smell. The bed is great to have in a truck and it's classy to roll around town in. Just put some 22's on it and you're ready to roll.
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Daniel,
Maybe this will help your understanding..
WikiAnswers - How much does one gallon of water weigh
And for what it's worth please keep your name calling to yourself and in check. We try to keep it as professional as possible in here. Your cooperation and control is appreciated. Thanks.
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I have one just like it but in Red. It was the best purchasing decision of my life. It's my sportscar, going-out vehicle (when I wash it) and my work truck. I LOVE it.
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HELLO...this is his eyecatcher.He is probably a great salesperson and RARELY has a job exactly like his ad. With an ad like this you have to upsell. I doubt if he is going to 15 houses a day and doing his ad job.
We did over 1/2 Mil our first year in business and NONE of my time was wasted crying over other peoples ads. It comes down to sales, guys.
Steel Eagle problems
in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
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use good chems, hot water. As Alan said, one or both tips may be worn. You can mount a pressure gauge on your machine so you know when your tips are worn (pressure drops).