Washaway

LOL!! (try some muratic acid sometime)

Humm...three posts in a row (well, now four)....does this mean that this issue is dead? :)

Ron, you are 100% correct. I wouldn't be where I am if I relied on other people to spread the word either.

Within your FAQ section, I'd stick to posting questions that you have a definite answer ie: Since you can't give a definate answer as to how long a job would take shorten the reastaurant question to read "I own a restuarant and my sidewalks and dumpster areas need pressure cleaning. Will my customers be inconvienced?" This goes for the 'average home' question aswell. (It's a smart idea to post questions for which you can provide an immediate black or white type answer) You don't want a potential client to turn elsewhere b/c he's decided that getting a quote from you is too much of a hassle, even before talking to you in person. Leave all the technicalities for after the initial contact I'd also change the 'How much does it cost" question to read something like "What are your rates?". Definately don't emphasize the 'extreme high pressure' idea. It WILL scare people. Get rid of the word 'Heck' and make sure that someone proofs the site for spelling and grammar errors. Besides this it looks awesome

The only time a turbo nozzle will be a must have item is when you are stripping paint. We've stripped paint off houses in many circumstances and I must admint that the turbo nozzle has cut our time by more than 50%. Besides this one application I think that it's a waiste of money and very dangerous. It is very easy to cause damage with it simply b/c of it's brute force. If you want acuracy then you are walking a fine line due to close proximity. If you wish to play it safe then you are loosing acuracy b/c of distance. In my opinion, there's no better combination for preserving conditions and a thorough job than a 15045 tip and some elbow grease. (it's a lot harder to damage surfaces with this combination). Also, the turbo nozzle is quite delicate....you must always point it towards the ground before pulling the trigger, if you wish to keep using it. Once you forget, and you can kiss the ceramic inside good bye along with your hard earned income.

I too have something similar in all of our mailers: "If it does not need to be cleaned, we will tell you!" I'm pleased to find that all of us here are in such high moral standards.

I don't think I could have expressed my views any better. Paul you're not a mind reader, are you? :)

I've got a Hydrotek SC30008K and this is the first time that the this has happened.........my unloader seem to be going into bypass mode only half way. I've got water being redirected into my tank via the bypass hose but my engine and pump are revving still as if I had the gun trigger pulled. (I've had an unloader go bad on my in the past but not like this) There are no water leaks anywhere where water may be escaping... ...I ripped it apart today and blew some compressed air into it.......thinking there may be some dirt stuck inside it ............also lubed it but didn't help. The only thing I didn't do was remove the shaft. Has this every happened to anyone? Has anyone ever taken these unloader's apart and fixed them? Can they be fixed at all or should I be melting it and make a pocket knife out it? Looking for your inputs. Thanks.

After spending half my Sunday trying to fix it, with no luck, I bought a new one today and my problems are no more. I was learned this weekend! :) Thanks guys.

Carlos next time your in the dog house come and visit me. I've gotten so used to being out there that I built one that fits a big screen tv........it's like a vacation:)

No downstream injectors of any kind. H2O into pump, pump to unloader, unloader to pressure release valve to heater to hose reel. Our chemical pumps are a complete separate setup and have nothing to do with the high pressure system. Thanks anyways.

Barry, here is how I look at things: If you ask me to help you dig a pool, I'm there. If you ask me to help you move, I'm there. If you wish to hire the services of my company then you are no different then anyone else, and you pay just the same. I pay my way through life and have never taken advantage, or abused, anyone that I may know, who might be in the business of providing a service for which I'm in the market for. We don't work for my neighbors and we don't work in the immediate sub-community that I live in (unless we are subcontracted by another company.........painter, GC, etc.) I also don't work for family (except my very immediate). This company was built on a lot of time invested, a lot of aggrevation, sweat, trials and errors and very hard work. It is what puts food on my table, a roof over my head and clothes on my back. For these reasons I don't low-ball, we don't barter and we don't work for free. Anyone asking for a 'good deal' is told that for the services which they are about to receive, the price IS a good deal. Anyone that may say that they know someone who will do it for $20 cheaper is told "Then you need to call them instead". Adopt this ideology and, in my opinion, your life will be a lot simpler. Having said all this.........if you still wish to be a 'nice guy' then let me say that the least you MUST do is cover all your costs..............fuel, chems, wear and tare on machines............donate your time and labor only!! (I'm sure that if you go this route you will get fed up very quickly)

Thanks for the info Russ. I did just that today........infact I took the entire thing apart...completely. There were no worn orings and the spring was in perfect condition aswell. The only thing that I found was the metal ball, the one that compresses the spring, had water damage....it was pitted here and there. Anyways I put all bag together and installed and nothing has changed. When I release the trigger it's bypassing but the engine and the pump don't let off the rpms. It sound as if it's ready for take off. I've got a hunch that there must be something else wrong with it....<scratching head>

John, Whatever you do make sure you don't put them right next to the inner walls. These tanks tend to bulg somewhat when they're full and that could cause you some headaches.

Give Miami of Fort Luaderdale a try instead of Tampa. They're both large hubs, cheap to get to and a lot more interesting than Tampa.

Rod, My initial thought after reading his question was, "Holy s**t", this is going to be a long list. Then I scroll down and see your response. Let me say that I laughed out so loud that it made my day. Someone really should have been here to witness my reaction. Thanks for the laugh

Under Pressure, Take a good look at Rod's list. If you want to be a professional then print it out. Of course everyone learns from their own mistakes and a good rule of thumb is the following: if you've broken down and cannot make repairs without leaving the job site, then when purchasing your part to be repaired you BUY TWO ON THE SPOT!!!!!!!!!!!! There. Now you have a spare one:) Although one very important thing that Rod did forget is the packing kit and valve check kit for your pump. There's nothing worse than working a full day with a pulsating hose and loss of pressure. I swear by the following: "If I not up and running within 45minutes max, then there's something wrong with my being prepared" If you can afford it, buy yourself another pump head.....this will cut your water seal (packing) repair time by 25 minutes atleast. And ofcourse don't be left without a packing remover tool. Good luck and lots of learning.

I've never used a tennis ball with a gun.....I've just simply gotten used to the way the cookie crumbles. On my surface cleaners however I use a clamp (bought at Home depot) to squeeze the trigger and I've also attached a ball valve to the end of every hose on the trailer. The ball valves are the best way to turn things off, and I never use the trigger to stop water flow. (inadvertantly I've found that because the triggers on the hover covers are always being pulled - by the clamps - they drain on their own and the spray tips never get clogged with rust from hot water)

All of my wands have a bent tip. I don't own one that does not (this includes my 3/4/8 foot wands and my 27 foot extension pole). Why would you want to put the gun on an angle to the wand if the same exist except at the other end? Also, all of my wands are insulated. Not only does it insulate (obviously) but it helps with grip. Just one more! I purchased twist connects (no, not quick connects). In otherwords I can switch all of my wands to the same gun. This method also helps when you want that bent tip, at the end of the wand, to shoot upwards as opposed to straight out or down. (simply loosen the twist connect....turn the wand to desired direction and retighten). In some very akward positions or places it helps to have the wand tip shoot off in a direction in order to easy the wear and tear of your muscles.

I know that most of us are all aware of the avaiable redundancy in the name of safety but I thought that this link was interesting none the less. And maybe there's someone out there that can learn from it. http://www.arnorthamerica.com/unloader.html

I know that most of us are all aware of the avaiable redundancy in the name of safety but I thought that this link was interesting none the less. And maybe there's someone out there that can learn from it. http://www.arnorthamerica.com/unloader.html

The only downside to living in south florida is that you can work 365 days a year:) Oh!! And we get no snow:(

This is a good idea except that you have to take into consideration the flow rate of both pieces of equipment. If for example your Shurflow is pushing more than your XJet is allowing to exit at the other end then you may run into problems with burning out the Shurflow switch or even the motor. With a bit of tweeking you can make something like that work.

You can buy LED light assemblies at your local strobe outfitting store. These places are usually the ones who outfit fleets like police, fire depts., city vehicles, etc. Next time you see a cop, ask them where their vehicle was outfitted for their equipment. Storbe outfitters exist all over the place and they are the ones who do fleets like police, fire depts., city vehicles etc. They will cary all kinds of light assemblies that will fit your trailer. Also try a heavy duty truck parts store.....I've found that they also will have a wide variety of light bars and such.

Rod, It's important to check your wiring from time to time....especially in and around the trailer tounge area, as that is the place where they all come together and have the most wear and tare due to movement. I've had issue once or twice myself and when asking for help from the 'professionals' they tried to sell me all kinds of news things in order to fix it. Being a skeptic, I decided to investigate for myself and found that my problems were as simple as a bad ground. In otherwords....these things will happen again in the future.....always investigate for yourself to be sure.