Guy B

All depends on if you're buying this to work on wood or roofs & concrete. Wood, stay with the deckster, low gpm and very controllable. Need lots of chem on a roof, or on concrete? Go with the flatboy.

Connor, unless you want to buy someone new gutters I'd leave degreaser alone. Most degreaser is sodium hydroxide based, this can and will strip paint right off a gutter.

Hey Chris, anytime you want to get together and talk shop let me know, Lumberton is a good half way point.

Chris, no disrespect but the pro's on this board have tried or have extensive knowledge in just about every "Consumer" grade cleaning chem out there. F-13 is a "Professional Product" that provides professional results, and has a proven track record for gutter cleaning and other uses. Yes it is concentrated and delusion of this product makes it very cost effective.

Not everyone will agree with your above statement.

Personally not a fan of ibc totes unless they're in an enclosed trailer. I really wouldn't waste the time or money trying to paint one. Clean it up strap it down and go.

Then I hope you will run for (And Win) a Board Seat at the PWNA John so you can help make sure this happens, I wish you the best of luck. Unfortunately Contractors are suspicious (And rightfully So) of our Industry Orgs. because they (Orgs.) have been long on promises and short on results for their Members. Until an Org. puts the needs of the "Whole" Membership as it's priority our Industry will never be taken seriously by any Government agency nor will we have any power in numbers of Membership. I don't know John, sometimes I wonder if it's better Not to have a National Org. to represent our Industry.....Kind of keeps us off the radar.

You're Welcome.

I think history proves this incorrect, In light of the Houston mess I'm not sure how you can say that Jim. I do agree with you in your statement about working with officials and not trying to hide things from them. In my personal experience working with Local and State Water Authorities, they will come after you hard if you lie or try to conceal things from them but will be more than happy to "Work With You" when asked or sought after for advice.

We have used open trailers from get go. Much easier to work out of. We have air blow outs on all of our units and tarp them in the Winter. Our new units this year have been built for versatility and speed. Each trailer is set up with one 8 gpm hot skid and one 8 gpm cold machine, although this may sound like overkill the time savings have been outstanding and have already paid for themselves.

Absolutely Correct Tony! We have QC's for psi gauges at the machine and ball valve at the end of the hose. Correct or near correct readings will be at the machine, the truest reading will be at the gun which after running through 200' of hose will be lower than readings at the machine. Ball valves at the end of your hose make it easier to switch guns, surface cleaners or use to rinse with, without turning your machine off.......just another time saver.

Yea I was going to say something about that Beth but seeing the Company he works for, I didn't want to offend anyone. Spamming pretty hard though.

If it's oxidized metal siding anything you use will probably take it down to bare metal. You may want to think about passing on this job unless you get waivers from the homeowner. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you restoring the vinyl? Are you up charging to remove the oxidation? Are you including oxidation removal in your house washes? You basically have to brush the whole house with a high PH chem the gutter cleaner from pressure Tek works the best. Removing oxidation from aluminum siding should only be done if they're going to repaint. Hot water, medium psi. I charge a $1000 minimum for oxidation removal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Please forgive me Marco, crazy idea?...No, Insane would be more appropriate. You can find them used or buy one new or pick up a hot water skid this winter. If price is a problem then A..you need to raise your prices....B...You need more business...or C...You don't need one in the first place. I don't understand a few thousand dollars getting in the way of making several thousand dollars many times over. Not trying to be an A-Hole Buddy, but your logic makes no sense what so ever.

This is the same problem guys have when they move up to 8 gpm machines and try to match the injector size to gpm using +100 ft. Of hose, it won't pull chem. Try one more thing........try a 5-8 gpm injector, I think that may work.

Good point Dan. 3/8 hose could create too much back pressure for a chem injector to draw at 10 gpm.

Not sure but you could put ds'ers behind your check valves before they come together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or buy them, ground goes to the ground in an electrical outlet. There are "Grounding" blankets or finger grounds. John, you should try magnets for your knees, I use them also.

I know folks will read this and think....Yea Right!...but my Sister swears by this and actually uses "Grounding" devices for personal well being. I have used them too. I truly believe there are natural treatments to most of our body ailments out there, but big medical companies would rather sell you a pill to fix it while causing damage to some other body organ so you have to get a pill for that. No Thanks!!! I was raised on vitamin & mineral regiments and at 51 years of age am Blessed that I don't take any type of maintenance medicines except for an aspirin or Advil every now and again. Nature Is The Key, Think About It.

Couldn't agree more Charlie. I think "Jumping the gun" on a convention before more important business is taken care of first is futile and will have a negative impact, I think history has already shown that.

That's a Northern Tools piece of crap.

This is not a problem, pressure switch activates when trapped pressure drops below a certain max psi then cuts off at trapped psi. I'd be more concerned if the burner came on with a tip in the gun only.

+100.....Hitting the like button!

We started out thinking bigger, heavier duty R2 hose was the way to go. Since 95% of what we do would be termed residential I found out that I was seriously over thinking our choice in hose. If we were doing more commercial concrete cleaning where we would be running a constant 180+ degrees for long periods of time then R2 5000 psi would be the hose of choice. Since this is not what we do on a regular basis the R1 hose is less expensive and easier to handle for moving in and out of breezeways and around houses. All of our units are 8 gpm @ 3000 psi with 200' of 3/8's R1 hose on the reel, the jumper between the skid and the reel is 1/2 R2 hose with only a 400 psi drop with down streamer in and 200 psi drop with down streamer out and no noticeable flow drop. That being said, I do have 400' of R2 in the shop just in case and several hundred ft. of R1 as backup. I keep backups for everything accept engines.