carltoncleans

Most of my market area is densely populated 50 plus year old neighborhoods with lots of trees. Mold and algae everywhere. Low ratio of sh left on the surface works well and is more environmentally friendly than a stronger mix rinsed. Use surface cleaner and leave light mix dwell.

Staining a deck is like selling stocks, and not just because they start with an “s”. Both of them require good timing. With bad timing, you could be better off throwing your money into a wishing well and hoping for a pretty deck. Most people also have the theory that staining is something that can be done year-round. Unfortunately, this is not the case. The most important thing you need to know about deck staining is that timing matters. Timing is key in terms of weather circumstances. Those of you in a hot southern state such as Florida are most likely warm year round. If you wanted to, you could stain year-round because your weather is more or less the same, as long as it isn’t raining. For the rest of us, don’t choose the best weather for outdoor activities because it is likely not the best choice of weather conditions. What is the best time to stain a deck? Staining is really best done in the fall season because the weather is perfect for most places. If your weather is inconsistent with what we consider “fall time”, then pick the time of the year that more suits your area’s fall. For example, living in a snowy mountainous region wouldn’t be suitable for a deck staining in the Fall because it’s probably going to continue snowing significantly more now than if you did it in the summer time. Actually, if you live in a snowy mountain, it would be better to get a screened in porch than a deck…at the very least get a roof for your deck. For the rest of us, spring and summer time is the worst time to do this. Spring time is supposed to be when the rain comes through and the flowers bloom. The only piece we care about is the rain (not to be anti-flowers here). Rain means moisture, and moisture means a ruined deck. Even without the rain, the humidity alone has the potential to ruin your stain. Woods soak in a lot of moistures, making this an unruly time for treating a deck. I know what you’re thinking: “but it’s so cold the rest of the year!” I feel your pain, but as it turns out, September is not too cold for us, but just dry enough to stain your deck properly. Really any time between August and October is an ideal time for staining your deck. If you know it’s going to rain this weekend, wait until a dry weekend rolls through (or the driest time for those that can’t escape the wrath of Mother Nature). Depending on your location, the time of year may change slightly. Not to sound like the fine print of a commercial, but for best results choose the driest time of year for your area. Now that you’ve decided when to stain a deck, you want to know how long for stain to dry. You’re in luck! It’s about a day or two, depending on your weather. After the stain/sealant has dried, it’s time to enjoy your new gray deck! Wait, why is my deck gray? To prevent graying (which comes from the Sun shining on a deck without UV protection), use a sealant that has color and UV protection. Without UV protection you will notice graying within 3 months of sealing. Finally, when is it time to re-stain? Unfortunately stain doesn’t last a lifetime. You can expect to re-stain your deck every couple of years. There are a lot of things to know when it comes to deck cleaning, staining, and sealing. For this reason, you could save yourself the hassle of Googling the whole weekend. We both know what really happens when you plan on doing home improvement: you look forward to it, prepare for it, and then realize you don’t know how to do it. It is highly recommended, as with all home improvements, to consult or hire a professional. In this case, a local deck repair, deck sealing, or deck staining company would know about what, when, and how to seal a deck. After all, they live in the area and probably have a bit more experience in the field.

"I use f-13 on all my gutter jobs. When I first started using it I had to play around with the water/chemical mix. If you mix it too strong it will take the paint right off. I had that happen once in a small area of facia i tested. With a 15-1 mix I have found that a few minutes dwell time and a rag to wipe or brush to scrub, they come 100% clean. The key is not letting it dry on the gutters. Keep it wet and do small sections at a time. That how I get it done. Everyone finds their own methods that work for them." This is how I do it and its not included in the standard wash. Its an up sell.

No pressure washer on wood, just bleach pumps for hydroxide. Trailer with hot water and bleach pump.

[TABLE=class: kmsg, width: 918] [TR] [TD=class: kbuttonbar-left][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: kmessage-left]I started last year with a new strategy for dealing with semi trans acrylics (common from HD & Lowes). Acrylic semi trans are easier to stip than solid acrylics with over all short dwell time necessary to break the finish (mix Sodium Hydroxide with Flood or Sherwin William stripper). Even though they are easier to strip compared to solid acrylics I've become tired of dealing with stripping railings and sanding fuzzies on the pickets. My new strategy is to use SW Deckscape acrylic on the railing color matched to AC on the deck floor and rail cap. Semi trans and semi solids are best in this process for color matching. I strip, sand the floor and rail cap and clean the railing. Stain the floor/rail cap and paint the railing. The results are fabulous with over all short project time, looks good, no fuzzies to deal with and good profit margin. The novice does not complete at this level. So, it's easy to be one of the few service providers to offer this kind of service and switching to oil sales itself. Horizontal surfaces are easier to deal with in the future because they are protected by oil. Many consumers do not even notice the texture difference between the two product types but of course I explain it to them. Acrylic on railings hold up well. See below for a cedar deck stained with AC Cedar Semi Trans and the railing painted with color matched Deckscape acrylic. I do not strip solid acrylics anymore because getting the profit margin my company commands is tough and dealing with chems is not at the top of my list. Solid acrylics are scrub brushed cleaned, feather sanded and a coat of Sherwin Willams Deckscape applied. Carlton Cleans **We do not use a pressure washer (power washer) in deck restoration. We exclusively use scrub brushing and deck cleaners to prepare the wood for a finish. [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: kbuttonbar-left] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

My auto mechanic is mounting the new motor today and I'm dropping the trailer off tomorrow morning at McHenry so they can go through the burner hot water system.

I'm replacing the motor because the flywheel is extremely rusty and I rather do the repairs in my shop at my leisure. I have a lots of work and want the down time and headache minimized. A back up engine is fine.

Matt good to talk to u. Thanks for helping to narrow the strategy and confirming the engine charging system with less than 14 volts is an issue. I'm buying a new engine and back to trouble shooting the burner.

I'm thinking the jumped pressure switch is faking the system to sending a reply that there is pressure by passing the sensor. I think the problem is at the burner relay or switch in the transformer. The system in my opinion is not getting to the point of pressure or temperature.

I know where the stuff is and think the relay is on the opposite side of the burner from the fuel pump. I can use the volt meter but the statements from Hydro teks web site are generic. For example, I'm assuming one side of the burner relay should be hot and one not until the key is turned ect..... but the website does not include that info in the troubleshooting doc. I plan on making some calls tomorrow but I was hoping others were bored with the tv and could share the info. It may be clear when I look at it in the morning with some more trail and error testing with the meter. Taking it to a shop to do work is one thing but diagnostic is another and a waste of time. I need to learn the systems. I'm skilled in the absorption of complex thought. So, conversations with experienced people is all I need.

Also after checking the relay I have to test the thermostate and pressure switch. Can someone please explain that also. CHECK HEAT SWITCH/THERMOSTAT FOR CONTINUITY (THERMOSTAT MUST BE ADJUSTED TO HIGHEST SETTING BEFORE TESTING – REPLACE IF NO CONTINUITY). CHECK PRESSURE SWITCH FOR CONTINUITY WHEN MACHINE IS RUNNING AND WITH TRIGGER PULLED – REPLACE IF NO CONTINUITY

Based on the Hydro Tek troubleshooting doc I need to first check the burner relay. Can someone please point out it's location. CHECK FOR 12VDC AT THE SMALL TERMINALS ON THE BURNER RELAY WHEN THE TRIGGER IS PULLED AND THE BURNER SWITCH IS ON AND THE THERMOSTAT IS TURNED UP. DO YOU GET VOLTAGE?

I also just remembered the prior owner has the two wires from the pressure senor jumped. I wonder if they have to be connected to the sensor when hot water is needed. I have no idea why they are jumped.Please look at the pic and share your thoughts. The second pic is where I have 12.3ish volts at the burner unit with the key in the on position from the starter solenoid.

I'm leaning toward a new motor but I need some understanding to assess the burner. The prior owner whom is liked in this forum stands firm that the unit worked. So, before buying a new or motor or an entire unit I need to know can the 12v burner ignite with 12.65 volts at the battery? I have juice at the starter solenoid of around 12.3 and similar at some module(do not know what it is) on the burner opposite of the fuel pump. If it can ignite with this charge what is the next test point for ignition (switch, ect.....)?

I recently purchased a unit from a grime scene participant. I was not able to pic the unit up so I did not test properly before buying (shame on me). I sent me guys to get the unit. I started the machine when I first got it but did not try the hot water. A few days later I tried to start the unit with a low battery (no go). I charged the battery and ran the unit. With a volt meter I had 12.65 at the battery when running. I'm sure this should be 14 plus. I than notice a black broken wire next to the volt reg. I remove the starter (and broken the internal when trying to remount :(...... and saw the other end of the wire coming from the underside of the flywheel (stator wire). I figure that must be my problem. The wire does not have enough lack to reattach. So I have to remove a rust flywheel (big pain)...... Does this sound right to you guys? I blow the carb fuel solenoid also. However, I cut the plunger until I get all my parts. I can hand crack the engine and runs with no problems. Still same voltage as stated above of course. Since I have a charged battery and have to order parts I figured lets try to get hot water in case I need more parts. I ran the machine with a nozzle and flipped the burner switch (looks like a light in the switch but does not come on). The burner does not fire. Does the system not have enough juice to ignite? If it does how do I troubleshoot ignition? I see fuel in the filter. When the carb fuel solenoid fried could I have fried something in the burner ignition? What and how to test? After all this I realized the starter gear shield was not attached properly and one starter bolt was painted white so someone prior was messing with the starter and probably broke the stator wire when installing the starter since they are so close together. Advise for anybody buying their first hot water machine used. Run the system, put volt meter on the battery when running and look for poor quality repairs (broken wires ect....).