big mike

We've used both, and there's very little difference in aggressiveness. There is a big difference in price however, so my advice would be to stick with the ones from McMaster-Carr, as they are substantially less expensive than the ones you can get at the Log Home Store, for example. The square bristle one's may last a bit longer, but it's nominal. Why exactly do you need a more aggressive brush? The round bristle ones kick butt, and unless you're trying to actually sand the surface, I don't see the need.

OK, I asked this over at ***** but I guess no one can help. I need to know where the return diesel line goes from the bottom of the coil housing. I know there's a return from the fuel pump to the tank, but I can't tell where the coil return goes. I am rebuilding a Pressure Pro skid that recently caught fire, and the lines all melted. I'm thinking that that both returns are spliced together prior to entering the tank, but I need to make sure. If you have a PP skid, could you please take a look? Pics would be great if possible. Thanks.

Thank you Russ. I knew it was simple. I just wasn't sure because my other skids have vertical coils. Thanks again!

If you're just doing paint prep, what you have is fine. Everyone will tell you "more GPM" but the reality is, if you're a painter, that 13 hp Honda with a 3.5 will work fine. Spend your money on a new sprayer or something.

Tony, why would you leave money on the table? I love when a homeowner states that they only want it clean because they're going to do it themselves. It almost always gets me a full restoration 2-3 years later. Besides, cleaning the deck is EZ money, not to mention that you only need to be at the location once.

Look at a 7" or 9" Shurline pad and a pole. They offer good control and it'll save your back. Available at most large box stores or paint supply houses.

Richard, The Osborn brushes are carbon impregnated nylon, and they're a little more aggressive. They make quick work out of the fur. That is a good price for a cup brush, but I would be hesitant to use it because of size and abrasive power. I do not de-fur spindles ever. I tell the customer that we'll buff out the floor and handrails if necessary, but that they may see some furring on the spindles. After applying stain, the fur is a non-factor anyway. The key to this de-furring issue is to adjust your chemical and pressure to allow no furring at all. It takes some time to figure it out, but now we rarely have to de-fur anything. The exception would be an extremely tough stripping job.

Andre, That deck looks like PTP to me.

I'm going to suggest some light reading for ya. Use the search function at the top of the site and put in "stucco" and then try "soft washing". You'll get tons of helpful info and you'll probably kick yourself for using a ladder or lift for 30' cleaning. Simple equipment is available to reach those heights with a standard pressure washer. Also look up "X-Jet"

Is it stucco or EIFS? 200 x 30 seems like commercial building dimensions, and I doubt its stucco if thats the case. Stucco is very easy or difficult depending on what you're cleaning. EIFS is damaged very easily, so low pressure is a must. More info, and a picture or two would help. Also, if you fill out your siganature, folks are more likely to help out.

Could be that log home stains are quite a bit more expensive than regular stains in the US. Most likely just a marketing gimmick to get homeowners to shell out big bucks for log home staining. I'm sure that there's a LOT more log homes in Canada than the US, and perhaps those stains are more readily available. Staining fences is a price shock for most folks, so using a log home stain, while most likely very effective, would be financially unfeasible. That's my take on it.

I've had 5 confirmed competitors this spring alone. (2 yesterday). What gets me is the contractor who has been around for a while (you know who you are), but feels the need to shop my pricing. Just dumb. I never give a phone quote unless its a past client wanting maintenance.

Jeff, We downstream just about everything now. We mix stripper as hot as we can make it, and use an adjustable stainless injector from e-spec (SSS). Not sure what the actual draw rate is, but it's sized for the next step down for our pumps (TS2021), so it draws better. we also have used less expensive injectors from Northern Tool and PT(I believe they're General Pump brand), and they work fine also. It seems that the stripper is adjusted easily, but the Oxalic sometimes poses a problem. I like to see quick results with Oxalic, but downstreaming never seems to get there. Usually, we'll have to wait until the deck dries for it to lighten up. I think this year I'm setting up the shurflo for induction Ox use, as we use it on concrete quite alot also. Percarb is next to impossible to downstream for stripping, but will work OK for maintenance washing. We still keep a Shurflo setup onboard for direct application of chems. many times I've set up and downstreamed, and had to ultimately pull out the dedicated chem line on the Shurflo. PITA, but necessary for tough strip jobs. As for extra room for tanks and such, why the need for a tank for Percarb? We never mix up more than we can use on a particular job, as the stuff loses its effectiveness in a couple of hours after mixing anyway. If we use it, we will mix small batches in a five gallon bucket and downstream for cleaning.

Just got my 2 yr update yesterday for DOT. Pee in a cup, check your vision, and touch your toes. LOTS of fun......

HOA's and PM companies are a great source of revenue. Search online for your area, and start marketing to these folks. Look for areas you'd like to target while you're out and about, and get face-to-face with homeowners in these areas and ask questions. You can usually find out who is on the board of directors simply by asking around. Once you get the name of a board member, find a way to talk to them personally, and find out the needs of the association. Ask if they have a service provider for the type of work you offer, and if they're satisfied with them. Offer to speak at the next board meeting to sell your services. It takes some determined work, but many thrive in this niche. We service several HOA's for deck work, and have sold housewashing, gutter maintenance, and roof cleaning once we had our foot in the door. Most are looking for contractors that offer multiple services. Remember to offer discounts on pricing, as this will open the door to more opportunities. Hope this helps some.

We use clear quite a bit also. The only maintenance we use it for is where we've used clear before. It's for the folks who love the look of natural wood, and will pay to have it cleaned yearly. We have two decks and a three season porch interior to do clear RS maintenance on, as soon as the weather breaks.

Hey the same thing happened to me, kind of. I had diesel in the tank though, but was parked on an incline and the pickup was on the dry end of the tank. My wife pointed it out to me. DUH!!

Dan, I work for a bunch of associations, and what you're missing is the fact that these board of directors are made up of residents, not some parent company. If you do crappy work, the word gets out. Yes, someone made a spec sheet, but that doesn't make it right. I wouldn't risk a hard fought reputation to pocket a few dollars on a condo association. I would go in a year or two later and get the work after a sub-standard job was performed. EZ job to secure. Just let someone else do the WRONG thing, and come back next year and do it right. Makes you a hero.

Anytime is fine.

Pete,There's not much to it. Sealer applies with a pump up sprayer or paint roller, and can have a dry or wet look after applied (now your trained). We use Sherwin Williams Siloxane based sealer for most surfaces. EZ money, and a good upsell. There's tons of products available for this type of work, and I'm sure others will chime in on their preferred brands, etc.

Dan I think that's poor advice. Sounds like someone saw one of those guys at a home show with the "never seal your deck again" claims, and bought the sales pitch hook, line, and sinker. Tell them they are going to get a poor result with the current spec sheet, and kindly decline the work. Your reputation is at stake if you do lousy work.

Yes, Jim is right about warm (not hot) water. I just assumed that most woodies don't carry hot water rigs to deck jobs. Bleach is the ticket if you can get away with it.

Tony, Your best bet for mold & mildew will still be SH. Your going to have to use some creative plastic use to keep it out of the water. The EFC-38 (percarb) will still affect organisms in the water and you should avoid ANY cleaner getting in there. Percarb will strip some finishes (especially penetrating oil types). The only method you can use without protecting the water, is to use only water (not real effective). Price these decks accordingly.

Blaine, you're right on the mark about increased enforcement. In our state, you need to have a DOT physical every two years to operate a commercial vehicle (10,001 lbs GVW), and a CDL for a commercial vehicle over 26,001 lbs GVW. Almost any 1 ton truck with a trailer (marked with a business name), will be subject to enforcement. I have a one ton flatbed rig and an Isuzu NPR box truck rig that are both under 26001 lbs, but over 10,000. Everyone needs to know the manufacturers stated GVW, and the GVW after you've set up your rig. If you carry water, you're almost certainly over the 10,001 lb combined mark. All tanks that are attached have regulations, as do the amounts and types of chemicals you carry. This is vital information that everyone needs to be aware of, or they can put a real hurt on you financially. PITA, but a part of doing business. If you're not sure, do your homework and avoid a painful education by your local enfocement agency.

Don't waste your money on Taginator for wood surfaces. The stuff is awesome, but you can get better results with Sodium Hydroxide mixed strong. We do lots of graffiti removal from wood fences and such, and our basic deck stripping chems work the best. Also, sanding will work well too.