big mike

Rick, If you don't spray, pad, or roll, how do you apply RS? Just pour it on, lol?

Kevin, Our company has used Powerstroke for the last three years with outstanding results. I have to believe that you're missing something in the process. It doesn't say in any of the above posts if you're using hot water? That's the single most important factor in cleaning concrete. We use minimum of 160 degree water, and many times that's all that's required. Powerstroke is great on oil stains, but following the directions on the packaging is vital to product performance (no cutting corners). We mix 55 gallon drums and then dilute that mixture 50/50 for downstream application. We pre-soak heavy oil areas with the undiluted mix first. Dwell time is important also. We usually let the downstreamed mix sit for at least 15 min. We have many satisfied commercial customers using this method.

Dwight, Check the "Environmental Issues" area on this board and use the search feature. Theres a ton of info, and you question needs to be a little more specific. Basically, reclaiming is the process of recapturing your used wash water before it reaches any storm drains. Many, many methods to accomplish that. Beyond that, you need to study the info in the forum I mentioned above.

I'll agree with Jim on this one. It's not cost effective to do it on separate trips, but I think it works better. You can use a much lighter dilution of OX on dry wood vs. wet. Outcome will be the same. As far as furring, my experience says that it's completely dependent on your stripper strength and pressure used when washing, not the Oxalic.

Hey Charlie, explain what you mean by that will ya?? I thought that RS changed formulation in 2006 to comply with all VOC regulations. Tell me I'm wrong.

Just curious....Is everyone giving up on Ready Seal?? I've tried dozens of different stains over the years, yet I keep coming back to RS. I remember the last two years the buzz was all about Woodtux. Now its AC. Is it just because they advertise that nice looking house in Cleaner Times? When will everyone learn that its better to stick with what works than re-inventing the wheel??? I am not willing to lose customers because of a need to "find something better", are you? The only legit response here is Diamond Jim with the RS on new cedar. It doesn't last as long color-wise, but I let my customers know that its a continual building process. Ask yourself this: Do people really want several choices of stain? My experience says no.

Look, I hunt, fish,trap, and garden. I eat the meat and produce I harvest and don't wantonly waste the resource. I've been hunting since I was 5 (now 45), and my children all do too. I definitely don't hunt to save money on food, I do it for sport. I eat what I kill or catch, but I could just as easily go to the market and buy it. Hunting isn't free either; license, ammo, gear, time, gas, butchering costs, etc. Probably cheaper to go to the store and pick up a steak in reality. This is about kids burning ants. I say fry em all. I'm a fan of the aerosol can and lighter method, but thats just me. Peace dude.

Well jeff, I think you just stepped on your tit. Hunting is necessary?? Killing bees is necessary? Hardly. You are simply bending your own morals to fit with what you do and how you live your life. Don't pass that judgment on to others who are just bonding with their children.

I guess we're all guilty of willfully torturing mold and mildew (life forms), with Hypochlorite. Now I really feel bad:lgtear:

For sure....

Jeff, Calling children pieces of crap, for doing childish things is crossing the line bro. Get off your high horse, and keep your version of morality to yourself. I'm sure Jesus burned ants as a kid too............

Jarrod, Instead of just pointing everyone towards Scott, how about some real info on your downstream setup. I also downstream my chems, but find that many times I end up pulling the chemical line from the truck to apply hotter mixes with a shurflo. This doesn't save time. Therefore, I'm looking for a better downstream %. My questions are: 1- describe your injector. (hi-draw, dual, etc...)? 2- do you meter your chem mixes for easy/hard strip jobs? 3- single or dual lance wand? You should also point out that downstreaming chems on decks is not a method for novices or beginners. This form of application requires careful user control to avoid wild oversprays. Pump-up sprayers teach people about chem strength and control, so they do have their place. If your doing decks more than part time, look at the downstream method. I do love the ability to rinse immediately if necessary, but would like hotter mixes coming out at the gun.

Just picked up a Landa wet blaster (it's BIG), at an auction for $50.00. I know that they sell for a few hundred, so I figured it was a good deal. I bought it with the idea of supplementing my graffiti removal arsenal. I have never used one before and have read every post I could find on blasting. I do still have some questions on operation and media so here goes: 1) is this a practical tool for graffiti removal? I use Taginator and Tagaway plus some of my own concoctions, but thought this might be a good alternate tool to have available. What can/should I use it on that I can't use chems? 2) Can you use hot water to accelerate the cleaning power? 3) I've read alot about soda, but how about recovery. It's usually necessary because most of my graffiti removal is in the cement jungle. I always recover at curbside. Will it ruin my filters and sumps? 4) more questions to come, but if anyone can help with the above, I'll be very grateful.

EZMAN- I'll add my 2 cents since I'm your neighbor. This year is tough in our area, but not as bad as you make it seem. There are several new companies in the Metro area, and pricing is taking a step backwards, but work can be found. Pick a local shopper newspaper and place an ad. You should be able to run a six week ad for around $350. It's local, and cheap. With all of the storms we've had lately, I find it strange that you're not busy. Storms always bring in lots of housewash and deck business. Drive to those areas and be seen in your service vehicle and you'll get calls. Please fill out your signature, etc..

The RV stuff is non-toxic to pets, unlike its green brother (ethylene glycol). Also its very inexpensive (about $2.25 gal). Readily available during the fall and winter months because of all the winterization that is done in this climate. I stock up each fall (about 30 gal) and winterize all the machinery, then in the spring all the antifreeze is used up in deck stripper mixes. Kevin, I carry 4-15 gal tanks (all different chems), all plumbed to a manifold and then downstreamed. My stripper of choice is Timberstrip Pro boosted with the pink RV at close to 10%. Downstreamed at 20% w/5.5gpm. Too much math for me, I just know it works. If I need a real hot mix, I just drop in a feed line from a dedicated shurflo and spray the downstream mix straight on. I've carried this mix over an entire winter (5 months), and it still performed close to the day I mixed it.

Nate, Try RV antifreeze (the pink stuff). Pretty common up in our climate. I keep a 15 gallon container on my trucks for winterizing (or stripper boosting). Works great. About 1/2 gal per 5 as mentioned above.

Sealwize, I'm not knocking the product so much as the sales technique involved, and I'm certainly not knocking you personally. I've dealt with numerous customers who've been down that road, and many we're lead to believe that their beautiful deck would remain beautiful for decades, only to realize that a year later their deck looked old and weathered (beaded water still, but looked horrible). As for the sealing properties of your product, I imagine its as great as you say. Most deck customers want a stained look that will last forever. We all know that thats a pipe dream, and maintenance is the only way to keep the fresh appearance. I understand that your product may be great for concrete and waterproofing, but i would never put something on a wooden structure to petrify it. Keep on doing what you doing. It makes me money:winking: As for seeking and sharing answers, I think I've contributed plenty, how about you?? I also gave an answer to your question. Still don't know who I'm talking to though.......

Try whatever you use for gutters (butyl), for the black streaks. Not sure, just a suggestion.

I find it funny that anyone can tell another company what to charge... If that price bought him some good will, or referrals, its well worth the cost. I bid a house wash yesterday over the phone (the only thing I bid by phone). Gave the customer my cost per linear foot times height factor, and she was thrilled. Easy wash (vinyl sided, ranch style home).Came in at, or just above our $175 minimum. Also gave her the line about unseen problems, etc. may cost a bit more, but assured her I wouldn't fleece her either. She said that she just bought the house as an investment. She liked my honesty and told me that shes a property manager for a national company who manages over a hundred properties in my state. She wants to meet with me next week to look at two strip malls and three ramps that she manages, that need attention. Was it worth the low cost? I think so. If you give a neighbor of a job you're doing that low of a cost, you're going to lose the original customer for sure. Never go under the price of the house you are hired to do for a quick buck from a neighbor. Don't you think they talk to each other? You're going to really anger the person who got you into that neighborhood in the first place. I usually give the original homeowner a small discount for the extra job we just got by being at their property, and price the neighbor the same.

Sealwize..... You aren't one of those snake oil salesmen who dupe unsuspecting homeowners with that "miracle 30yr, never seal your deck again" stuff are you?? If you fill out your user CP you'll probably get some legitimate answers to your questions. As for the sillycone stains (like Behr), they can be removed with the proper mix of stripper and boosters, proper dwell time, along with osborne buffing. We do these often, and with good results.

Matt, I've got 3-4 boxes of them that I'll sell you at a discount. I no longer use them, and exclusively use Osborne brushes. PM me, or call the number below if you're interested, and I'll go dig them up in the shop. They are also available through deckguide.com. Price is negotiable....

We do some dock work up here, but we always do it prior to putting it in the water, or after they pull it for the winter. If its a permanent dock you could put out floating berms (think oil spill cleanup) to catch any loose debris, but containing the chems will be a royal PITA. It may be a job to pass on, unless you can get the dock floor off the water. On a side note I remember Shane B. (of Baker's Grey Away fame), has done some nice dock work. Maybe he'll chime in.

We go 20% on any residential work over $1000.00. I've had too many customers pull out from under a handshake deal. If you have to put them on your calendar for work, they need to come through with the job as promised. I tell folks that it covers the cost of the stain I have to order (even though I may have 100 gallons of it in my shop).

Here's a shocker; $4.10 gal NR drum or $3.25 with a returnable drum + deposit. OUCH!! This is the same company I get Ox for $80 a bag and citric for $70 a bag. Best of all Hydroxide beads $45.50 and Metasilicate for $35. I asked my sales guy why 12.5% was so high because last year it was $1.85 a gallon, he tells me demand is higher and petroleum prices are driving it up. I can buy 10% pool shock for $2.50 a gallon, and may go that route. Company is Hawkins Chemical in Minneapolis. They make the 12.5% on site so its SUPER fresh.

Hi all, Well, I got a call back to clean some RS that was dripped on some stamped, and dyed concrete. It's an older patio with a green hue, and a satin sheen to it. Unfortunately, the guy didn't call me back to look at it until 4 days after it was stained, so the oils set in a bit. Now I've been at this for some time, and I tried the usual removal methods (spirits and degreaser). It took the stain out no problem, but left a clean area that is larger than the drip areas. This guy is pretty anal about "his beautiful patio", and is unhappy with my cleaning effort. I told him that the entire patio is showing oxidation, and my cleaning removed this from that area. He wants to call his concrete guy and get his opinion, and asked that I adjust my price on the deck refinish to pay for that guy to clean it. I told him no-way, and that I clean more concrete in a week than his guy ever cleaned, so I would fix it myself. I'm thinking I'll just go over and surface clean the whole thing and remove the oxidation and even the appearance out. Should work, but am I setting myself up for more BS? I told him to let the sun work on the clean spot for a week or so, and see how it looks after that. This guy is a neighbor (couple of blocks over), so I won't have to travel too far. Any precautions cleaning this stuff? Sorry no pics yet...