big mike

UMMMM, maybe I missed something here but why are you using Hydroxide at all? You mention mold, mildew and moss, but not stripping old stain. Why would you use hydroxide?? All you will do is ensure LOTS of fuzzies. The bleach will kill the stuff growing on the pine, and will brighten it as well.

I prefer to be the first, and set the bar high. Give them info that only experienced wood restoration pro's would have. I'll agree with Celeste on this as well. I've been down both roads, and the time I save not chasing down homeowners, outweighs the face-to-face factor. As my company is about 65% commercial, evenings are reserved for my family time. After 9pm I'm on the road doing commercial concrete. You really need to understand that there is no one perfect answer. As Celeste mentioned, Ken is a sales guru, and does very well. My method works perfectly for my time constraints, and keeps me on task.I do OK too....

B is the answer I use now. I used to spend lots of time at people houses trying to get them to sign, but I've found that couple's like to discuss spending that kind of money, and pressuring them is not a good sales technique. All I usually tell them if they are home is that I'm here to do some measurements and testing, and that I'll e-mail them an estimate. This gives you contact with them twice vs. the initial consult. Of course I give them the usual spiel about stain, restoration process, etc. They also get a nice brochure with that info along with other services we provide. Many times a homeowner will ask about house washing or roof cleaning after reading the brochure. Now I'm selling added services. I schedule all estimates for one day of the week (usually Friday because it's payday). There's lots more to this, but you get the idea. It really is a process that you have to develop, and it changes as your business does.

Joe, Celeste summed it up very well. As far as restoring a deck that I've done maintenance on, it is part of the cost of retaining that loyal customer. One good referral from that person, trumps any extra cost incurred with restoring their deck. Also, every customer you retain, is one less you need to go out and sell. Selling costs money.

Joe, What I meant was that we always come prepared to strip and reseal, but that usually is not the case. We do lots of RS maintenance, and most often a light cleaning and re-coat is all that's needed. Sometimes you are money ahead removing the finish and starting over, rather than having premature failure. This is the case with multiple coats over several years. When the pigment builds up to a high level, it interferes with the penetrating properties of the oil, and leads to early failure. All I meant was to have a full arsenal when going out on a job. As for graying, it shouldn't be an issue if maintenance is done in a timely manner. If a RS deck has grayed, it's been too long between maintenance coats, and will require a restoration. That's how you sell maintenance to people - keep up the maintenance, and you won't be paying for a restoration. You ask how I know if a sealer needs to be stripped and this is my answer: If we didn't apply it, it gets stripped. I can't be responsible for someone else's prep work, and you're taking a big gamble that they did it properly. Err on the side of caution.

Joe, I'm glad you took my advice and joined up here. I enjoyed our phone conversations, and I do believe you'll pass that 20K mark easily. There are some real wood restoration pro's here, that love helping out (as long as you do your part). Welcome aboard Little Buddy!!

Greg and Beth, Pardon me, but this method does work, and well. Of course not all decks are the same, and only a fool would think that. Our estimate table has different pricing for different railing types. I can get within $5.00 on most bids, in a fraction of the time. Just because someone doesn't do it the way you do, doesn't make it wrong. Final prices are adjusted up or down based on factors such as accessibility, height, and finish to be removed. I can plug in the floor surface square footage in and get a good idea of "material cost" immediately. I also NEVER leave an estimate anymore. I always send them via e-mail due to competitor theft. Just using a blanket statement like "it's less profitable" is BS. As a side note, I wouldn't recommend this method of estimating to a novice (only to Nube know-it-all's;)). I've been restoring wood for some time now, and guess what? I'm still in business.

Daniel, When we refer to a "Search" we don't mean Google it. Use the search button at the top of this site and search this forum for the answers. Also, if you even say the word "Thompson's" on here, you'll get nothing from anyone who has a clue what they're doing. Just trying to help you in the right direction....

OK, here's an easier way to get to your price 9 x 9 = 81 81 x 2.20 = 178.20 now you know your sq ft price $2.20 Figuring out your price by measuring the deck floor only, makes estimating WAY easier.

Ken, I just wanted to publicly thank you again for another a great job I just closed because of the listing on your site. Kinda weird but, I've been slow all week, and Restore-A-Deck came through again. Thanks Bud....

Mike, Glad to see your studying, and using the search function. A shurflo will work for roofs, but look into Delavan pumps for more volume. A lot has changed since this post was started.....

Here's a couple to get you started. Wax/polymer treatment for vinyl siding (makes the siding shine) Acid wash foundations (removes irrigation rust stains) Gutter cleaning (if it's not something you include already) Window cleaning (by hand) Screen cleaning (remove and soft wash) I'm sure there's alot more, but these are the obvious ones. Plus remember to upsell driveway cleaning, roof cleaning, deck cleaning, etc...

John makes a good point here. I don't charge extra for this or that, I charge a premium price for a premium result. I'm up front about that, and people usually respect the honesty. If I run into the customer that is looking for the cheapest price, I tell them up front that I'm not that guy. And honestly, I would rather not have them as my customer. Some do it differently, and if you're new, or starving, take what you can get. A reputation for high quality takes time to build, but once you have it, it's priceless. Most of my residential work is from referrals from VERY satisfied customers. Remember, there's tons of guys running around with pressure washers who can wash down a house, so setting your company apart from the crowd is the ultimate goal. Keep asking questions Mike, you'll get it eventually.

Always.

Ron, Be careful not to shoot yourself in the foot on this. Soon folks will WANT dirty sidewalks so they can advertise with stencils. OOPS, no more sidewalk cleaning...:D

But free doesn't pay the bills.....

Why? This sends a red flag up. What "soap" did you use, and did you rinse or neutralize? Also, what Cabot's product did you use? What was in the 5 gallon bucket prior to you mixing up stain? Mildew does not form that quickly, so I wouldn't worry about that. Too many questions to give you a realistic answer. Do you have photos?

Clear RS = yearly maintenance = $$$

Your house wash mix won't do much on 100 year old brick. That being said, let the customer know what to expect and collect the check. If you could also do a test patch of the restoration cleaner vs. your basic wash mix, you may help them see the light.

Tony, That looks like a pretty EZ strip job, so your pricing is in line. Replacement would be a PITA and you'd still need to stain it anyway.

Rick, True statement. To update (because this thread is a few years old), they are still out there, but most are operating under different names. They're still scamming people though. We have one or two in my general area, but I think that people are catching on to the BS. The brochures I leave with homeowners, has an entire fold dedicated to debunking their ridiculous claims.

Derek, First, are you related to Dale? If so, call me up. As to your fence, the black is caused by the iron in your water. It's a reaction with the tannins in the cedar. Your fence needs a good percarbonate cleaning followed by an acid application to remove the gray and black stuff. High pressure cleaning like you described will work, but you are decreasing the life of your fence because you're removing the soft fibers in the cedar. This will cause a raised grain in the wood, and you'll have a fuzzy fence. That method is time consuming and damages the wood, so it's not the best way to approach this project. FYI - fence maintenance is expensive, and its something they don't tell you about when they build it. To have a professional come over and take care of it for you, you'll be in the $5 -$8 per linear foot range, depending on the style of fencing and stain used. We're in your area, so call me up if you need some more info.

Rod, I question this, as I have used percarb that is over two years old and it worked just fine? What is the supporting info on the shelf life of sodium percarbonate?

Jordan & Eric, Most are unwilling to post their pricing on an open public forum. I agree that it is foolish to do so. Everyone prices differently, and has different overhead. Charge whatever YOU need to make a reasonable profit margin.

+1 Also, I have a strong customer base who are now converted to RS and a regular maintenance schedule. Why change in mid stream and explain that you were wrong for the last 5-6 yrs? I'll stick with what is working, and let everyone else look for the Holy Grail of stain.:) Rick, that side-by-side shot is a nice photo to explain the effects of sun and stain longevity to customers.