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big mike

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Posts posted by big mike

  1. Posted · Report reply

    If you don't find hunting necessary to save money on food well then good for you.

    Look, I hunt, fish,trap, and garden. I eat the meat and produce I harvest and don't wantonly waste the resource. I've been hunting since I was 5 (now 45), and my children all do too. I definitely don't hunt to save money on food, I do it for sport. I eat what I kill or catch, but I could just as easily go to the market and buy it. Hunting isn't free either; license, ammo, gear, time, gas, butchering costs, etc. Probably cheaper to go to the store and pick up a steak in reality.

    This is about kids burning ants. I say fry em all. I'm a fan of the aerosol can and lighter method, but thats just me. Peace dude.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Well jeff,

    I think you just stepped on your tit. Hunting is necessary?? Killing bees is necessary? Hardly. You are simply bending your own morals to fit with what you do and how you live your life. Don't pass that judgment on to others who are just bonding with their children.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Jarrod,

    Instead of just pointing everyone towards Scott, how about some real info on your downstream setup. I also downstream my chems, but find that many times I end up pulling the chemical line from the truck to apply hotter mixes with a shurflo. This doesn't save time. Therefore, I'm looking for a better downstream %. My questions are:

    1- describe your injector. (hi-draw, dual, etc...)?

    2- do you meter your chem mixes for easy/hard strip jobs?

    3- single or dual lance wand?

    You should also point out that downstreaming chems on decks is not a method for novices or beginners. This form of application requires careful user control to avoid wild oversprays. Pump-up sprayers teach people about chem strength and control, so they do have their place. If your doing decks more than part time, look at the downstream method. I do love the ability to rinse immediately if necessary, but would like hotter mixes coming out at the gun.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    EZMAN-

    I'll add my 2 cents since I'm your neighbor. This year is tough in our area, but not as bad as you make it seem. There are several new companies in the Metro area, and pricing is taking a step backwards, but work can be found. Pick a local shopper newspaper and place an ad. You should be able to run a six week ad for around $350. It's local, and cheap. With all of the storms we've had lately, I find it strange that you're not busy. Storms always bring in lots of housewash and deck business. Drive to those areas and be seen in your service vehicle and you'll get calls. Please fill out your signature, etc..

  8. Posted · Report reply

    ya know Mike may be really onto a better quik retail solution than the Safe or Low Tox offerings. It specifically mentions on it not for radiator use as if it may not have all the extra inhibitors, etc.. Although the one I seen at Kragen is prediluted it is also only $4 compared to like $14 for Safe.

    Mike, Are you doing that RV at a 10% level or are you pumping it full of caustics for downstreaming.. Think I may have a problem with my latest Safe batch with too much prop glycol to hydrox ;(

    The RV stuff is non-toxic to pets, unlike its green brother (ethylene glycol). Also its very inexpensive (about $2.25 gal). Readily available during the fall and winter months because of all the winterization that is done in this climate. I stock up each fall (about 30 gal) and winterize all the machinery, then in the spring all the antifreeze is used up in deck stripper mixes.

    Kevin, I carry 4-15 gal tanks (all different chems), all plumbed to a manifold and then downstreamed. My stripper of choice is Timberstrip Pro boosted with the pink RV at close to 10%. Downstreamed at 20% w/5.5gpm. Too much math for me, I just know it works. If I need a real hot mix, I just drop in a feed line from a dedicated shurflo and spray the downstream mix straight on.

    I've carried this mix over an entire winter (5 months), and it still performed close to the day I mixed it.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Sealwize,

    I'm not knocking the product so much as the sales technique involved, and I'm certainly not knocking you personally. I've dealt with numerous customers who've been down that road, and many we're lead to believe that their beautiful deck would remain beautiful for decades, only to realize that a year later their deck looked old and weathered (beaded water still, but looked horrible). As for the sealing properties of your product, I imagine its as great as you say. Most deck customers want a stained look that will last forever. We all know that thats a pipe dream, and maintenance is the only way to keep the fresh appearance. I understand that your product may be great for concrete and waterproofing, but i would never put something on a wooden structure to petrify it. Keep on doing what you doing. It makes me money:winking:

    As for seeking and sharing answers, I think I've contributed plenty, how about you?? I also gave an answer to your question. Still don't know who I'm talking to though.......

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I find it funny that anyone can tell another company what to charge...

    Al, your $150 minimum is way too low.

    If that price bought him some good will, or referrals, its well worth the cost. I bid a house wash yesterday over the phone (the only thing I bid by phone). Gave the customer my cost per linear foot times height factor, and she was thrilled. Easy wash (vinyl sided, ranch style home).Came in at, or just above our $175 minimum. Also gave her the line about unseen problems, etc. may cost a bit more, but assured her I wouldn't fleece her either. She said that she just bought the house as an investment. She liked my honesty and told me that shes a property manager for a national company who manages over a hundred properties in my state. She wants to meet with me next week to look at two strip malls and three ramps that she manages, that need attention. Was it worth the low cost? I think so.

    That's the kind of price you give to a guy with a 850 sq.ft. ranch that's next door to a job you are already doing - and you do it right then and there.

    If you give a neighbor of a job you're doing that low of a cost, you're going to lose the original customer for sure. Never go under the price of the house you are hired to do for a quick buck from a neighbor. Don't you think they talk to each other? You're going to really anger the person who got you into that neighborhood in the first place. I usually give the original homeowner a small discount for the extra job we just got by being at their property, and price the neighbor the same.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Sealwize.....

    You aren't one of those snake oil salesmen who dupe unsuspecting homeowners with that "miracle 30yr, never seal your deck again" stuff are you?? If you fill out your user CP you'll probably get some legitimate answers to your questions.

    As for the sillycone stains (like Behr), they can be removed with the proper mix of stripper and boosters, proper dwell time, along with osborne buffing. We do these often, and with good results.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    We do some dock work up here, but we always do it prior to putting it in the water, or after they pull it for the winter. If its a permanent dock you could put out floating berms (think oil spill cleanup) to catch any loose debris, but containing the chems will be a royal PITA. It may be a job to pass on, unless you can get the dock floor off the water.

    On a side note I remember Shane B. (of Baker's Grey Away fame), has done some nice dock work. Maybe he'll chime in.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Here's a shocker; $4.10 gal NR drum or $3.25 with a returnable drum + deposit. OUCH!! This is the same company I get Ox for $80 a bag and citric for $70 a bag. Best of all Hydroxide beads $45.50 and Metasilicate for $35. I asked my sales guy why 12.5% was so high because last year it was $1.85 a gallon, he tells me demand is higher and petroleum prices are driving it up. I can buy 10% pool shock for $2.50 a gallon, and may go that route. Company is Hawkins Chemical in Minneapolis. They make the 12.5% on site so its SUPER fresh.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all,

    Well, I got a call back to clean some RS that was dripped on some stamped, and dyed concrete. It's an older patio with a green hue, and a satin sheen to it. Unfortunately, the guy didn't call me back to look at it until 4 days after it was stained, so the oils set in a bit. Now I've been at this for some time, and I tried the usual removal methods (spirits and degreaser). It took the stain out no problem, but left a clean area that is larger than the drip areas. This guy is pretty anal about "his beautiful patio", and is unhappy with my cleaning effort. I told him that the entire patio is showing oxidation, and my cleaning removed this from that area.

    He wants to call his concrete guy and get his opinion, and asked that I adjust my price on the deck refinish to pay for that guy to clean it. I told him no-way, and that I clean more concrete in a week than his guy ever cleaned, so I would fix it myself. I'm thinking I'll just go over and surface clean the whole thing and remove the oxidation and even the appearance out. Should work, but am I setting myself up for more BS? I told him to let the sun work on the clean spot for a week or so, and see how it looks after that. This guy is a neighbor (couple of blocks over), so I won't have to travel too far. Any precautions cleaning this stuff? Sorry no pics yet...

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Jim,

    First mistake was agreeing to another coat of RS. Thats money out of your pocket. 2 coats are plenty, unless they want to pay for it. As for the plants, I wouldn't worry too much. I've gotten stain on all sort of plants, and they may lose some leaves, but they usually don't die. The big plant issue is with stripper, acid, or bleach.

    Sounds like a general PITA homeowner. Just tell her that if the plants die, to call for replacement. But don't put up with a daily update.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    In a perfect world we'd all talk and figure out pricing and not step on each others toes. Not ever gonna happen, but its a nice happy thought. Just keep up your diligence on learning and moving forward, and soon those folks will be in your rear view mirror. I've talked with a few guys in my area that are registered users of these BBS, and really, they're the only ones who I'd ever refer work to, or take referrals from. Tell the guy to get in the 21st century, and check this out. Knowledge is everything.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    and on softer woods - two years before a 'maintenance' coat - and three years before a full resto/strip job. Those are my requirements - and I need a product to fulfill those requirements - so I can build a deck business. Otherwise I fear pi$$ing off customers - or at least scaring many of them away if I am totally 100% honest upfront about the reality of how much deck maintenance will cost - if I can get a stain to perform.

    Dan,

    There are several stains that perform to those requirements on soft woods. RS fits that bill well, although you really don't have to fully strip it for many years. I am still recoating RS decks, every 2 yrs, that I originally restored over 6 yrs ago, and they look great. Being 100% HONEST with your customers about the longevity of a stain is crucial to secure repeat business. Remember, your business is only as good as your word. Most folks who are willing to pay to have their deck restored, realize that maintenance is a fact of life, and will appreciate you being up-front about costs. Most people would rather pay the maintenance cost.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I do it religiously on deck bids, and it works really well. Usually I do the call back the following day and ask if they have any questions about the estimate. I then proceed to give them pointed questions to ask other contractors bidding the job such as; explain the importance of neutralization, ask about moisture content and its effect on the stain they're going to use, etc., etc. I let them know that they can call me anytime with questions too. Makes me appear to be concerned about their project (which I truly am), and gives them the feeling that I'm an ally in their project, and someone they can trust.

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