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big mike

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Posts posted by big mike


  1. 9x9=81 x .85=$68.85

    $1 per spindle =$64

    steps are 3 sqft so i charged 2.50x5=$12.50 on steps

    $1 per straight ft for the top railing and bottom railing is included.=$33

    total-$178.00

    OK, here's an easier way to get to your price 9 x 9 = 81

    81 x 2.20 = 178.20 now you know your sq ft price $2.20

    Figuring out your price by measuring the deck floor only, makes estimating WAY easier.


  2. What ARE all of the other options I could offer the customer in a house wash,

    Here's a couple to get you started.

    Wax/polymer treatment for vinyl siding (makes the siding shine)

    Acid wash foundations (removes irrigation rust stains)

    Gutter cleaning (if it's not something you include already)

    Window cleaning (by hand)

    Screen cleaning (remove and soft wash)

    I'm sure there's alot more, but these are the obvious ones. Plus remember to upsell driveway cleaning, roof cleaning, deck cleaning, etc...


  3. Always include everything from gutter to ground in a house wash - it's going to get wet anyway, so do it properly. The people in my area don't like surprises - "Oh no, the gutters are extra... sorry, the insect screens are extra... no, sorry the awning will be another $50..." so I am upfront about doing everything.

    John makes a good point here. I don't charge extra for this or that, I charge a premium price for a premium result. I'm up front about that, and people usually respect the honesty. If I run into the customer that is looking for the cheapest price, I tell them up front that I'm not that guy. And honestly, I would rather not have them as my customer. Some do it differently, and if you're new, or starving, take what you can get. A reputation for high quality takes time to build, but once you have it, it's priceless. Most of my residential work is from referrals from VERY satisfied customers. Remember, there's tons of guys running around with pressure washers who can wash down a house, so setting your company apart from the crowd is the ultimate goal. Keep asking questions Mike, you'll get it eventually.


  4. We were not allowed to use any stripper or other chemicals other than soap.

    Why?

    This sends a red flag up. What "soap" did you use, and did you rinse or neutralize? Also, what Cabot's product did you use? What was in the 5 gallon bucket prior to you mixing up stain? Mildew does not form that quickly, so I wouldn't worry about that.

    Too many questions to give you a realistic answer. Do you have photos?


  5. Rick,

    "You can fool some of the people, some of the time"

    True statement. To update (because this thread is a few years old), they are still out there, but most are operating under different names. They're still scamming people though. We have one or two in my general area, but I think that people are catching on to the BS. The brochures I leave with homeowners, has an entire fold dedicated to debunking their ridiculous claims.


  6. Derek,

    First, are you related to Dale? If so, call me up.

    As to your fence, the black is caused by the iron in your water. It's a reaction with the tannins in the cedar. Your fence needs a good percarbonate cleaning followed by an acid application to remove the gray and black stuff. High pressure cleaning like you described will work, but you are decreasing the life of your fence because you're removing the soft fibers in the cedar. This will cause a raised grain in the wood, and you'll have a fuzzy fence. That method is time consuming and damages the wood, so it's not the best way to approach this project. FYI - fence maintenance is expensive, and its something they don't tell you about when they build it. To have a professional come over and take care of it for you, you'll be in the $5 -$8 per linear foot range, depending on the style of fencing and stain used. We're in your area, so call me up if you need some more info.


  7. The only choice my customers get is the color of Ready Seal. They do not determine prep methods.

    +1

    Also, I have a strong customer base who are now converted to RS and a regular maintenance schedule. Why change in mid stream and explain that you were wrong for the last 5-6 yrs? I'll stick with what is working, and let everyone else look for the Holy Grail of stain.:)

    Rick, that side-by-side shot is a nice photo to explain the effects of sun and stain longevity to customers.


  8. We've used both, and there's very little difference in aggressiveness. There is a big difference in price however, so my advice would be to stick with the ones from McMaster-Carr, as they are substantially less expensive than the ones you can get at the Log Home Store, for example. The square bristle one's may last a bit longer, but it's nominal.

    Why exactly do you need a more aggressive brush? The round bristle ones kick butt, and unless you're trying to actually sand the surface, I don't see the need.


  9. OK, I asked this over at ***** but I guess no one can help. I need to know where the return diesel line goes from the bottom of the coil housing. I know there's a return from the fuel pump to the tank, but I can't tell where the coil return goes. I am rebuilding a Pressure Pro skid that recently caught fire, and the lines all melted. I'm thinking that that both returns are spliced together prior to entering the tank, but I need to make sure. If you have a PP skid, could you please take a look? Pics would be great if possible. Thanks.


  10. I will not do just a cleaning without staining unless it is for a home going on the market or property mgt.

    Tony, why would you leave money on the table? I love when a homeowner states that they only want it clean because they're going to do it themselves. It almost always gets me a full restoration 2-3 years later. Besides, cleaning the deck is EZ money, not to mention that you only need to be at the location once.

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