steven

Nice, very nice.

what do you got there?

Ya if you can not remove those it is going to be a problem. imagine one long line when you flip them over. After you set the boards down and have them fastened go ahead and use a light hydroxide mix and strip the entire deck for uniformity, mix in a little sh to remove the mold. If the marks do not come out try lightly sanding them, if everything works well, when you sand them they should be the same shade as the stripped portion without the stains. Might work, might not. the problem with wood is that no one ever really knows what its going to look like until its done. What you see when its wet will be totally different when its completely dry. of course this is just my opinion.

I hope it works out for ya. don't give up on it, hey a recoat is a money maker.

how is it going on this job?

I was not trying to say how much to charge, was just saying that I personally would charge over 1k for that side.

Rick is correct, That stain is gonna be tough. And Like Rod said earlier " when it comes to solids affordable is not an option. I would charge over 1 thousand bucks just to strip that one side.

I think you should have used a hydroxide and not a percarbonate

I would go over the entire deck like said above. that will help it be a somewhat uniform outcome.

That product is meant for old used up wood on its last leg. Steven Mendez 207 347 1334 Www.westernmainepressurewashing.com

Ayup, I been waiting for this thread. What is the stuff Made from? What is the main ingredient that you will need to strip? I am sure someone here has dealt with that stuff before. Steven Mendez 207 347 1334 Www.westernmainepressurewashing.com

That would b extra money. not really in the scope of a normal house wash.

And how is correctly Beth? do you want to share?

thisis for wood restoration , can someone please help with some info. I can not remember where it was or who said it ( trust me I been looking for an hour ) but someone mentioned reading everything from the us. forestry service about coatings I THINK that's what it was. can someone help me out and tell me exactly what it is I should be reading.

It seems that all the " painters " in my area think that Sikkens has to be applied to all log homes.

well after reading some about the SIKKENS I find that they have a film forming and a non film forming. the srd re is a one coat non film former. while the cetol log and siding is a two coat film forming finish. Sikkens does seem to have quite a few different application processes.

Question about A/C and SIKKENS. I have been using the Armstrong Clark stains pretty much exclusively. I know that they have both drying and non drying oils in them. the non drying oils are supposed to lock in the non drying. They seem to dry IN the wood not on the wood. Now the Sikkens seems to be a film former that sits on top of the wood. Is that the way SIKKENS is designed? I was using the cetol one coat system and there seemed to be a lot of film forming going on. It seems that all the Sikkens I see has that shiny look.

Heat is a must but I do 99 percent residential so the only time I use my heat is when I mix my hydroxide and oxalic.

Thanks Rod, Yes sir there is a ton and a half to learn. I understand your post about having to take into account every situation, location, and product when starting a project. That is something that I will be incorporating into every site inspection for now on. Before I would just look at the wood and what was on it. I just want to learn as much as I can when it comes to coatings whether they are latex,oil, acrylics, or whatever. I also want to know as much as I can about the wood, cedar, pine, hardwood, softwood etc. Again thanks for the post. I have been reading a lot of the FPL website. they have a lot of information.

sure sure heat is a must. I don't haul water either and don't have any issues with water flow from residential customers.

As Pete M once said, 4 is so so, 5 is good, but 8 is awesome. Though the 5 will work for ya, why not go for the 8 gpm. I don't think there is a crazy dollar amount difference.

A/C Amber. Minimum? well I guess one coat would be minimum. They don't say there is a maximum either, all they say is "do not over apply". is there any benefit to doing more than two coats?

How would all you pros out there remove the stain from the peak of this house?

I understand the penetration part and I understand the flashing / sitting on top part. Put it on till " it cant take any more " is what I have been doing, But as we know If the wood is really dry it can suck it up quick. Is there any set rule as to how much stain wood can take? I would think that all wood is different and some may take only one coat of stain ( new wood ) and some could take three or four ( old dried up wood ).