Dale

Hi Lyle Thanks for the input. I use Boodge every chance I get. Great product! Dale

Wow..took a while for any feedback, but hell, I'm a patient kinda guy lol. I've tried Boodge over the last couple of years and I like it. Its foolproof in the application, everything just ends up blending with no laps. Deep penetrating and good colors. My favorite deck stain. Dale

Personally, I wouldn't want to spray Sikkens. Is this a maintenance coat or starting from scratch?

Thats a good point..but how much work was it? We don't know if the existing finish was a bear to get off etc. 1200 for a 'average' problemed deck with average elevation and access, seems decent to me. Dan, what was the strip like?

Sounds about right to me.

Really?...thats it? A cap full of Downey, some water and TSP and the acrylic comes off the wood?

Looks good. So what is it? The question is..How did it work on the next coat..the one thats actually bonded to the wood?..

Looks great!....shouldn't you have started at the other end?...looks like you have to leap over the railing...just sayin..

Do it in the late fall or early spring.

Hi all..haven't been around much lately. Lurking but not posting. I want to try out a product that originates in Oregon thats starting to be carried by my local Ben Moore dealer and wonder if anyones had any experience with it. Its called Boodge and its a mineral oil based non film former. Supposedly very user friendly...blends well..no lap marks and mostly never needs to be stripped just cleaned and reapplied. I'd like to try RS and WTW, but the problems with having enough product in a variety of colors and the lag time and cost of shipping puts me off a bit. This would be locally available to me on short notice. So far a couple of local contractors like it a lot. Not trying to derail a thread..this one is about products..just wondering if anyone closer to the source has any experience with it and can give some input. Tried about all the off the shelf product and most look like crap in a year or so (depending on exposure etc.) Anyone heard of it or used it? Thanks Dale

Man I have to move to where you live! lol. If you figure that the actual sq.ft of a typical deck is about double that of the floor space, a 500 sq.ft deck @ $3. =$3000. + materials. Easy money! 2 500 footers a week and hit the lake. Just kidding, I assume you mean floor sq. footage?

Anyone heard of this yet? Sounds like a great alternative to the poisons. http://www.timbersil.com/

Yeah..sounds too good..never rots..non-toxic..looks purrty..whack a piece off an throw'er on the grill.. I emailed them some questions and asked for a sample...we'll see.

Thanks Shane..I missed that. I'm still a bit confused though. The sealmaxx is a coating but the timbersil is a process done to the wood before it hits the lumber yard. It got great reviews from Popular Science and a top ten award from Greenbuilding. They probably do mean it can be stainded with a solid stain.. tho they never clarify it. I wouldn't be suprised if products like this and the new generation composits take over as the materials of choice for outdoor structures like decks etc.....it just makes sense. But wood siding will probably be here for quite a while.

Anyone using the 1600 series solid? I always uded the Primer/2 coats acrylic with good results. I just did my first deck using the 1600...that is some sticky stuff. ..at least I think so.

Well, maybe not..I've never just cleaned a job and had someone else stain it so I was thinking about it wrong.

That sounds way to cheap to me for a strip/neutralize on a house like that. There are a few awkward spots to access.

Its a beauty now!!...Great Job!

Just my 2 cents but...stop sanding. You'll never be able to maintain an evenly flat plane and wherever you have to sand across the grain..like up where the wall meets the soffit..or any detail area for that matter, will show when you stain it. You can get away with it on a deck, but on verticle areas where you can sight across a lighted area, it may not look so good. Have it chemically stripped and do a light detail sanding /defelting....lose the belt sander.

A client wants me to bid on restaing a 3 yr. old cedar home. There is 0 caulking around windows, doors, up the rake of the roof etc. Its well built and there are really no bad cuts, but I'm still leary to spray chems and water around when nothing is caulked and I told her so..(of course I would do the caulking for a nominal fee)...one of the first things I picked up on when estimating the job is how picky about detail she was.. maybe I'm being too cautious here but I'd hate to leave the job and come back to a bunch of water stains that seeped thru after I left the job, or leakage to the inside of a picky clients home. The home is 3 yrs. old and the construction is well done...but I don't KNOW how it was constructed i.e. sheathing??..good vapor barrier installation??. It should be o.k. but in general when I'm pushing water from the outside towards the inside I'd like caulking around doors/windows/rakes. What do you all think?

Thanks for the input!..Jons right about not enough room for backer rod. The siding contractors were good, still I think caulking is a good idea in general. I'll probably pass on this one. The woman is very anal and it has to be done before the 14th of Aug. when they leave for the season. I'm backed up the way it is. Told her I'd put in a bid for next spring but she thinks she can just call a contractor at this time of year and get it done "right now"...maybe she'll be able to but I doubt it. Thanks again Dale

Yeah..then its probably a repaint. It would be hard to replace the wood when you consider the upright supports and rim joists/ fascia and stair stringers on a 2 level deck....no rail system on the second level??

Beth, This will be the first maintenence coat, the home is only 3 yrs old. By the lack of stain on the nailheads you can tell it was stained before installation. Whats on it now is Olympic oil based in natural cedar. The mildew is very light, yet the client pointed out every spot. The environment has decent air movement and sunlight. I tend to take pics of everything but am not sure how to post them, so I've never bothered...me so lazy. My plan was just a simple wash/stain. Thanks Dale

Look into ABR's citrus stripper..www.abrp.com or Star 10 www.starten.com or Back to natures Ready Strip for starters.

What IS the "cumulative damage" that shows up? How can I identify it. How many have personally seen this damage and how did you arrive at the conclusion the damage was from bleach/soap use? Like anything else theres "use" and "misuse"... When working with products that only have a 12 - 18 month life when using the "right" products....how much shorter a life can one expect?.....let me add, I'm not a bleach user very much, but am starting to rethink my reflexive grabbing of the percarb and defelting pads for almost EVERY project. On jobs that have a uniform finish and only need light cleaning and no stripping before applying another coat, I'm heading for bleach/soap if I can get the concentrations to work for me....this is the way I'm thinking about it...if I use a percarb, its gonna strip some finish and go all runny on me in certain areas and I might as well strip the whole thing ( I'm thinking house siding here)..if use a weak enough solution to not strip the stain...it won't effectively deal with the mildew...if I use a bleach/soap solution in the right concentrations, I can effectively clean the surface dirt and deal with the mildew without the finish "gettin' all runny on me" and necessitating more work..more expense..and a greater exposure to problems caused by more washing/rinsing of lap siding/logs..water directed at vented soffits..etc. I say this because I think its human nature to strive for a visually even finish when working and if the finish starts to strip there may be a tendancy to over wash/rinsing, throwing more water around than whats actually needed. Maybe I'm overstating this a bit, but theres something to be said for simplicity if the results are equal.