Dale

Hey I got some great advise from 2 posters at the painters chat room....You can get an increase in durability for semi-trans deck stains by first applying an oil-based semi..let it dry and then apply an acrylic semi over the top. They seem serious but they must be pulling my leg.

It depends. If its a product that I know is a nightmare to apply or maintain I probably wouldn't do it. If the owner says "This is what Jake used and I really like the color and it holds up good..and besides..I already bought it" and I know its a not great, but decent product, I'll do it. When working with products that have a life of 2 yrs before needing maintenance its kinda hard to stress durability of one product over another to the veiw of a customer. To a contractor that extra 6 months from a particular product IS a big deal. To be honest I think that a lot of our preferences are oriented to what makes our job easier and faster and therefore more profitable.......not that theres anything wrong with that.lol. Dale

Definately a 9" pad on the floors. Rollers stipple and brushes flick stain. Smaller pads and Bestt Liebco brushes for everything else. Also those little trim pads work great if the decking boards are spaced kinda far apart. I gotta try the "stain stick" that Brian sells.

Thanks for the answers and recommendations. I always let clients know a maintenance coat should be done in a couple of years and suggest that they could prolong the look if they simply washed the deck spring and fall with some water/dish detergent and a soft brush/garden hose...they never do. On this particular deck the Rymar didn't look like it needed a maintenance coat..it looked TOTALLY shot. So ATO it is. I used it the first time last year on a deck and didn't think it was too hard to work with and everyone really like the color..a 50/50 Honey Teak and Amberwood..it still looks great but its less than a year so I was wondering how it holds up. Thanks Dale

I just stumbled onto this and it may be good to know if you build or repair decks. The new ACQ CA-B or ACZA wood is 2.5 to 4 time more corrosiove than the old CCA. The galvanic corrosion is caused by the copper in the preservative. In very wet conditions the corrosion can start in a matter of weeks instead of years. The recommendation seems to be to wrap the ends of the joists and the length of the ledger board with a ice and water shield type membrane to separate the galvanized metal from the wood. Because the corrosion starts from the inside out its not noticeable until the strength of the hangers is compromised. Anybody heard of this? wrapping the ends of joists and length of ledgers sounds like a PITA to me.

Reed heres a couple of sources. http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/BarriersFAQs.html http://www.graceathome.com/pages/de...tm#DECK_PROTECTGranted there is a product to be sold, but the tests were ASTM standards for galvanic corrosion.

What do they use for joist hangers, I didn't think that SS hangers were available?

Looks good! Ever use it on a pressure treated deck floor or in this case a dock? Dale

Thanks for all the replys everyone. I have no experience with the SRD so it looks like ATO it is on the cedar. PressurePros, your experience with ATO on pressure treated was not good? I have a dock that I stripped the mold, mildew and grey wood off of with a very diluted stripper then brightened and it looks great. Was thinking about thre ATO on that too but now I have doubts. I have to get it done next week so locally available products are what will be used. Looking for a semi. Any suggestions anyone? Dale

You should be able to get navel jelly or other rust converters at a hardware store. They work pretty good but wear gloves.

Are you evaluating them after they were completely dry? You can't really tell until things are dry.

Ryan Congrats. Are you residing or is the H/P already installed? If you're going with new siding check into the factory pre-finished in the color of your choice. It has a 15yr. garantee and they can even color match the needed caulk from the same batch of color. Good luck and have fun.

Hi RyanH It seems the old T is mixed with the new T..WHO determined what verses were transferable and how they were to be interpreted? This is just a rehtorical question no real need to answer or it may start a whole religious/political/moral thread and those can go on for ever and for some reason many people find it offensive.

..turkey..GOOOD...pilgrims...eehhhh.

where do you get this idea from? Did the people at the time know this?

who did away with the old laws? Didn't Jesus say..anyone who changes one iota of these words..blah,blah....goin' to hell?

Just my 2 cents but this job may involve WAY more than you think. Make sure you and the owner are on the same page as far as what constitues an exceptable surface. good enough for the repainting to "look good" doesn't cut it. You better be specific..prep an area of each surface, siding,trim,window, detailed decorative areas etc to the level YOU think is acceptable because that level is what you're basing your hours on. If its execptable to the owner have him/her sign off ON the sample. This may have to be done with pictures of you and the owner in the same pic.This could be a great addition to your business or a nightmare. You say you're starting on Monday?? so you are already commited to the job and cost?

Reed I wouldn't worry about it. What is this builder actually saying? The knots fell out because of the chems? Redickless! Do you have any pics? I find it unbelievable that this guy will go thru all this kind of crap over 10 boards! Doesn't the builder or homeowner have a invoice for the lumber? it should state lumber grade purchased. Don't worry ..you have a HUGE flock of people to testify to your professional standards and quality work.

21.35 kbs...yes 21 POINT 35kbs WOO-HOO.. I have to LIVE at the computer for ANYTHING.

Celeste...I don't know that it is home made. Probably shouldn't have implied it, but its on their website. Click on wood then msds for the sealer.

Jon I believe the part about a product that could seal wood for that long but only a product like 2 part epoxies like Smith & Co. or the West marine system but a stain wouldn't penetrate somethinh like that at least I don't think. I'mspecious of any new "miracle" anythings...I apologise if I'm wrong but the MSDS doesn't seem to read right....NO reactivity with ANY other substances..its ph is 11.1 wouldn't that react with an acid substance? wordings like "mildly" irritating to eyes..the recommendation to just dump whats left down the drain just doesn't sound right. The end of the document states that the MSDS was made by the company.

CCPC & VanD..yeah mine is on a cart so I don't know if it would be practical for 3 story jobs. But if there was no problem with pushing it thru 200-300 ft of hose maybe you could hook up qd's and add length. I've haven't bought an x-jet yet because every pic I've seen that demos the distance it shoots seem to have an enormous amount of overspray mist. Maybe I'm not seeing it right. Has anyone had problems with chem. overspray inadvertantly cleaning or waterspotting someones windows or clean spots on someones siding when your only doing the roof or spotting someones car parked in the drive etc. I know some people have no problem spraying deck strippers with the jet but I can't see how someone can finesse stripper under handrails and such with that kind of stream

Just wondering why you need 150-200 ft of chem line if you can reach it with a x jet which only shoots about 30-40 ft? I use a 1.6 gal/100 psi for whatever and it has no problem pushing what seems like full pressure thru 100 ft. of 3/8 hose.

Rich sorry to hear about the hardships you've had. I'm sure you'll both find your balance and move forward

I bought an 18' extendawand last fall and used it about 8 times and really like it but when I was going to use it the other day the pin lock mechanism came off the center pole...anybody know how to glue it back on? It seems like most of any adhesive would be scraped off when it would be slid back on. Anybody have this happen before and how did you fix it? Thanks Dale