Jump to content

Curb Appeal

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content count

    274

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Curb Appeal

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I had no trouble at all using the Stripper Cream with Latex. The house I did was over 100 years old and had about 7-10 layers of paint on it of all types. Oil, latex and even some lead based paint. Sometimes I had to apply the stripper a couple of times to eat through all of the paint but it all came off. The foundation only had 1 coat of latex and 1 coat of primer. It came off no problem, with pressure...

    Daniel, The stripper cream cost $112 per 5 gallon bucket. You're coverage will vary but you should get 100 sq. ft. per gallon out of it. One tip, don't skimp and put it on too thin. Put it on there as heavy as you can and let it sit for as long as you can. It won't dry out.

    The NMD-80 ran $50 or so per 5'er. It goes a long way though. I neutralized the whole house (2500 actual sq. ft.) with about 3 gal of concetrate...

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I just got finished stripping the paint off of an entire house, wood siding. I used Stripper Cream from EacoChem. It's a mix of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Assuming it's only one layer of latex paint, just roll the stripper cream on, let it sit a day or two, and pressure wash it off. No scraping involved at all and it will remove ALL of the paint, not just the loose stuff. Then neutralize with NMD-80, also from EacoChem. NMD-80 is hydrochloric acid. I diluted mine 4:1 water to acid, but that was on wood. You may have to dilute more when putting it on cinder block to keep it from eating through the masonry. I suppose any acid will work to neutralize.

    Watch out for that stripper though, it's very hard on the skin. I have a couple of new battle scars now...:)

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all, I've had something new come up.

    I washed a 3 building condo complex over a month ago for a property management company, $2100. After an initial invoice and a few emails, still no payment. I finally got hold of the rep Friday and she said that the association only had $500 in their account. She cut me a check for the $500 and said that the rest would be forthcoming soon. She said that the dues were due at the first of the month but I don't see how just 1 month's dues would cover the balance. There are only 14 homeowners. She said that she may have to pay out in increments.

    How should I handle this? Should I charge some kind of non-payment fee? This is the largest Prop. Mgt. company in the state and I know they have tons of properties. I was thinking of waiving any fees in exchange for her throwing my name around to other reps in the company. I'm not too familiar as to how the Prop. Mgt. companies work and pick contractors so all you gurus chime in and school me...

    Thanks...

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I just went through the process of plumbing a new tank. I have a gear drive TS2021 pump...

    Here it goes from the tank:

    2" outlet from tank reduced to 1/2" fpt (I got mine from a local PVC pipe sullpy house. I used a couple of different pieces)

    1/2" mpt x 3/4" hose barb

    15' of 3/4" ID polybraid hose to pump

    another 1/2" mpt x 3/4" hose barb into a clear bowl inlet filter into a 1/2" hex nipple into a 1/2" 90 deg street elbow into a 1/2" female x GHT male coupler into the pump.

    Does that make sense?

    My tank is in the bed of my truck 'cause there's no room on my tiny trailer.

    Here's some pics that may help...

    Sorry didn't see the double post. My pics are in the first one here

    http://forums.thegrimescene.com/showthread.php?t=8720

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I just went through the process of plumbing a new tank.

    Here it goes from the tank:

    2" outlet from tank reduced to 1/2" fpt (I got mine from a local PVC pipe sullpy house. I used a couple of different pieces)

    1/2" mpt x 3/4" hose barb

    15' of 3/4" ID polybraid hose to pump

    another 1/2" mpt x 3/4" hose barb into a clear bowl inlet filter into a 1/2" hex nipple into a 1/2" 90 deg street elbow into a 1/2" female x GHT male coupler into the pump.

    Does that make sense?

    One thing to make sure of though is if your pump is direct drive, the water tank outlet has to be higher than the pump inlet so that gravity and the pressure of the water will help force-feed water to the pump. If it's belt or gear driven (like mine), it will suck water from the tank on it's own.

    My tank is in the bed of my truck 'cause there's no room on my tiny trailer.

    Here's some pics that may help...

    post-1355-137772170567_thumb.jpg

    post-1355-137772170578_thumb.jpg

    post-1355-137772170588_thumb.jpg

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I think the recipe for a 5er on Bob's site is 3.5 gallons of SH and 1.5 gallons of water with an 8 ounce scoop of Simple Cherry. Couldn't be easier! I don't care about the smell of bleach cause I love it.

    Not to be nit-picky but Bob's site recommends 2 8oz scoops per 5gal for downstreaming. Didn't want to confuse anybody. Do use 1 scoop or was it a typo?

    I mixed my first batch of Simple Cherry too strong. For using an X-jet, I mixed 2.5gal water - 2.5gal 12.5% - 10oz (by weight) SC. It left a noticeable film on all of the windows. I had to re-rinse all of them. I was supposed to mix 10oz by volume, not weight.

    Live & learn...

  8. Posted · Report reply

    OK searched again and happened upon this thread

    http://forums.thegrimescene.com/showthread.php?t=6618&highlight=downstreaming+math

    So that answers my ? about the smaller orifice size.

    I'd like to know the math a bit better though.

    Mine is a 20% injector. That's 4:1 right?

    So my 50/50 mix of 12.5% and water (6% chlorine solution) at 4:1 makes it 1.2% chlorine TTW?

    Do I have that right?

    What part of the math would the smaller orifice have an effect on? The 20% draw rate?

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I've only used an X-jet M5 til now. Filling and lugging 5gal totes is getting old. I'd like to try downstreaming and I bought one a few months ago.

    20% adjustable

    The problem is, I bought it before I upgraded my 4gpm pump to my new 5.6gpm pump. So the one I have is the 2.1mm 3-5gpm model.

    What effect will the small orifice size have on my higher flow pump?

    Can I use it and compensate with stronger/weaker chems or do I need to just get the bigger one?

    Thanks all...

  10. Posted · Report reply

    If I buy in 55 gal. it is $2.73 a gal. plus $50.00 deposit on drum, If I buy in 5 gal. it is close to $5.00 per gal. with tax, and she told me she had a price increase and will be going up! And I have to call in advance and pick it up myself. But, it is the only place I can find it.

    Wayne,

    I'm in Murfreesboro, TN. I get my chems including TSP and 12.5% from Univar. I pay $1.30 for chlorine in a 53gal drum ($40 refundable deposit). I pick it up here in Murfreesboro.

    I believe they have a place in Nashville but I'm not sure if it's warehouses or offices. I think they also deliver. Their number is 1-800-233-0633.

    Also, Harcros Chemicals (615-256-8636) in Nashville carries 12.5%. The last time I checked it was $99 for a 55gal drum. Not sure about deposit or if they deliver.

    I like Univar. Dean in Murfreesboro is very nice and I got a great deal on a couple of 300gal totes from one of their emplyees. Plus any chemical I've ever asked about, they could get and get cheaper than anyone else. TSP and Oxalic acid are both $30 per 50lb bag through them.

    Feel free to call me anytime...

    Hope that helps...

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I've recently been using Prosoco's Oils & Grease Stain Remover.

    Poduct Detail

    I first tried it out on my parent's garage floor. smooth concrete with 8 year-old motor oil stains. This stuff pulled out about 95% of the oil out on the first application and 99% out on the second. Great stuff.

    The only drawback is that you have to let it dry overnight. So far, my customers have been very excited. I'm sold...

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Oh and something else:

    I noticed today that my unloader stopped going into bypass a few times. I'd let go of the trigger and the engine load did not let up.

    I've read that the unloader needs to be adjusted to compensate for the reduced HP but I'm not entirely sure as to what exactly needs to be done. When I got everything hooked up, I put the pressure guage on it and dialed the unloader out until the guage read about 2400psi with the gun trigger off.

    Is this correct? Is there something that I'm not doing? Or did I possibly get a bad unloader?

    It's kinda scary when you let go of the trigger and the engine doesn't ease up. I kept waiting for a fitting to blow...

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Now with that money you made on those condos, you can buy a bigger engine to get the full potential out of that pump. I have a source for 15 hp Kohler's for $475. Let me know if you want to get one.

    I was thinking my next engine would be a 20hp. 15hp would get me 2900psi. 18hp would get me 3500psi. Hmmmmmmmm... I'll have to think about that one. That is a very good price.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Joel, those first three pics look stunning. Everything is sparkling. Awesome work!

    Thanks Ken. I was thinking about it earlier, this was my first housewash. I've done flatwork, roofs, brick restoration, paint stripping and graffiti removal but no vinyl houses.

    I think they turned out pretty well and I could not have done it without all of the help I've received from this forum.

    My thanks to all of those who have answered my questions, both the ones that I have posted and the ones that I didn't have to post because I found it buried in this treasure trove of knowledge called The GrimeScene...

    Cheers

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Looks great! I love gutter grenade.How did you put it on the gutters?

    First, as Bob suggested, I put 8oz in with my housewash (2.5G love, 2.5G H2O, 10oz Simple Cherry) and x-jetted everything. The streaks didn't come off so I brushed it on, wait 20 sec. and rinsed them. Melted right off. Mix was 20:1. I used about 1 gal of my mix for all of the gutters.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    b) Angle iron and c clamp. Holds tubes like a champ.

    Thought about either that or a heavy duty spring clamp. Either of those would probably be the easiest to adjust...

    a) Smaller pipe inside short section of bigger pipe. Put a thumbscrew through the larger pipe sleeve and squeeze the inner tube.

    Of course that would give the 1" pipe some stability and support. I think that if the pipe was extended all of the way out of the tank, the top (with the garden hose connected to it) might be top heavy...

×