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Everything posted by Chad A
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Well I have search this forum and a couple others for the information needed. I am doing a engine swap but I am needing to know what size Gas engine. I have read and found a couple of different formulas. psi x gpm/1100 psi x gpm x .0007 So now I am confused as which formula is right. My pump is a GP TS2021 which is 3500 psi at 5.6 gpm I am currently running a kubota D600 3 cylinder diesel which 14 hp So given the formulas above which is right 3500 x 5.6 = 19600 / 1100 = 17.8 hp 3500 x 5.6 = 19600 x .0007 = 13.7 hp Given the engine that is currently on the pump which is 14 hp I am completely confused as to which one is right. The unit I have is a Whitco DPO 5030. Any information, help, explanation, or answers are greatly appreciated.... Thanks in advance,
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Thank you both for the information. As it turns out My uncle had a couple of running D600 engines up on the farm so I have now them. According to General Pump For the gas engine calculation it would be... psi x gpm / 1100 = hp
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I am sure you do and that's what I am trying to find out. There are so many different formulas from reputable people but the only issue is they all vary in +\- 1 to 4 hp. Now with my kubota d600 I know it is a 14hp but it is diesel and it has more torque than a gas engine. The only reason I am wanting to do an engine swap is because the parts are getting harder and harder to find for that engine. Not to mention the pricey side of it too.
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Just found another formula under grainger.com That states this for gas engine hp Ebhp = (gpm x psi) / 1457
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Ok now that makes 4 different formulas. Now with this formula it makes the gas hp even higher. 3500 x 5.6 = 19600 / 1024 = 19.2 hp gas Which is higher than the one I had posted. This is where I am getting confused. Is there not and industry standard formula or is there several.
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Kyle, I can tell you that I use GoDaddy. Some folks don't like them but I have hosted 4 websites over the last 10 years with them and they have been very good to me. I am currently hosting www.bubbascrubspc.com and www.panhandlepierfishing.com these are the 2 newest I have added to my list. The pier fish address averages about 200k hits a month I have the unlimited package and it cost about $25 a month. With all 4 domain and 2 hosting accounts I average about $35 for hosting and email account. The domains cost between $10 and $15 a year. The best time to get with Godaddy is when they are running a special for free hosting with the purchase of a domain or vice versa. Right now they are offering 5.99 Domain names and 9.99 a month hosting unlimited with free email.
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I have had an issue with one of my current vendors. I placed an order last week and still haven't received it and it still has not been shipped. I spoke to them yesterday and was assured that it would be shipped yesterday and still no shipment. The sad part is this vendor is only 6 hours away from me and if I didn't need the parts and if they didn't alreadyd have the our money I would cancel the order. So what I am asking is what vendor should I use for parts, chems, etc. I am located in Florida. Thanks for any advice.
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Russ sent you a pm.
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Here is what I have and want to do. I have a down stream high draw 20% fixed rate chem injector. I have read about not place this in line with hoses or guns as it will damage them over time. I have a GP TS2021 running about 5.6 GPM My questions are: 1.How long of time? 2.What is yalls recommendations on setup 3. Can I use the second output on pump and run another unloader and hose setup just for applying chemical. 4. Or should I just carry around a bucket and place it at the end of my wand. Thanks for input
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Chemical Injector Questions
Chad A replied to Chad A's topic in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
Thank you Timo That is what I am gonna do then. -
Today while doing a job I thought my Landa Water Jet gave out I did buy it used but still only a year or so old. Heres the problem. While doing the job the pressure just stopped. Went to to the PW and checked everything and everything seemed normal. No air in lanes good flow of water. So I took the gun off the side and put in a 5.5 25 degree nozzle and my pressure was there. So I hook the gun back up to the surface cleaner and then it started spinning spraying for about a sec. then pressure just stopped again. So I broke out old old faithful Northstar 20" and it did the same thing. Any ideas on where to start looking. Thanks Chad
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PW and Surface Cleaner issue
Chad A replied to Chad A's topic in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
I found the issue it was the spring in the unloader it was weak. Thanks or everyones help. -
PW and Surface Cleaner issue
Chad A replied to Chad A's topic in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
It is a 4GPM at 3500 PSI -
PW and Surface Cleaner issue
Chad A replied to Chad A's topic in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
I have check the spray bars and nothing in those it happen on 2 different surface cleaners. If it is in did to much pressure Icould back down the unloader and lower the pressure. K7 Unloader but this would be only a temp fix. Is there a suggestion to where to start looking on the unloader. And Again thanks for the help. -
Ethical way to receve payment from Power washing owner to another company owner
Chad A replied to nlantz's question in The Club House
Glad to hear that. -
Purchasing rebuilt power washer
Chad A replied to KGILL's topic in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
Find out if it is coming with an kind of warranty. Definitely find out why it was in the shop in the first place. I personally don't see someone letting a 3 or 4000 dollars PW go, on a 4 or 500 dollar service bill. Just my .02 -
Okay, I promise last question. Now that I have replaced the check valves and rebuilt unloader(Flow Type) ZK7.2 (4.2-6.6 GPM) I have cavitation in the intake line. If I hook the hose to it and not run the tank there is no issues. But if I run just the tank I get cavitation in the intake line. When the pumps stops pumping the unloader returns to normal. You see massive amount of air in the intake line. (Left of the red handle). Any suggestions.
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I want to thank Brian, Russ, Christopher, and Jerry A big hi five and thank you. Ya'll deserve it. Tell ya what I done and all I can say is WOW. What a difference those changes made. The first image is where the clippard valve use to be. I did some reading on the old whitco units. They use the clippard valve on the older burners which didn't have a fuel solenoid. Good thing for me this is a newer burner which has the on board fuel solenoid. So I removed everything associated with that valve. The second image is where the bypass was that went to the pump. I removed all of that hi pressure hose for the bypass and ran a 300 PSI (Which after reading the unloader instructions it should be atleast 600 PSI) to the tank. Cavitation what cavitation its gone completely, even the unloader stopped pulsating after the release of the gun. The unloader had a #2 orfice in it where the bypass hose hooked up so I just ran that 300PSI 1/4" to the tank. Its about a 8 ft run. The third image is the pump. I used what is called tigerflex rated 300PSI with a crush rate of 100#'s. I changed the original hose barbs on the pumpfrom 5/8" to 3/4" brass hi flow barb. Pulled all the galvinized crap off the pump and used 2 3/4" T's one for the hose barb and one for the thermal valve and put a plug om the end of the last T for purging air out of the system. I bought this unit as a backup for hood cleaning since my son n law wanted to join in on the family business. I think I have a beast now. Just actually have to check the PSI coming from the pump. Again thank yall all of yall. Chad
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Russ, I took a picture of the burner it is a Wayne Ehasr .75 - 3.0 gpm 1450 rpm It has a 110 volt fuel solenoid on the burner that is controled by an on/off switch which activates the burner. So will it be safe or not recommended to remove the clippard valve in this case. Thanks for your help and everyone else too.
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Is a clippard valve a good thing or bad thing. Is there a way to bypass or is it needed.
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Ethical way to receve payment from Power washing owner to another company owner
Chad A replied to nlantz's question in The Club House
Nick, I have been a general manager for a restuarant for 15 years, before I got into pressure cleaning. My advice on collecting the money owe is simple. You have only 2 options and 1 of them only gets the money from the business owner. 1. File a small claims in the court system(not sure how it works in Canada tho) once he contacts you to stop the law suit you can get paid. Make sure you add any fees you accure to the total that he owes, and then if he doesn't want to pay then say see you in court. 2. Texting and threatening doesn't do any good it is a waste of your time and money on cell bill. Just go and place bids on the accounts that he has. I hate to say that but you can always retracted a bid once he finds out you bidded on his contracts. Then later on down the road when he fails to maintain his contract with those companies they already have your number and you would be the first called. Kinda under handed but money is money. -
Here is a pic of the unloader to the right inlet of the pump. 1. Hi Pressure Discharge 2. Hi Pressure Bypass ( I think Hi Pressure) 3. Hi pressure discharge from unloader to burner 4. Thermal Relief Valve 5. Goes to a weeping valve that is connected to the Beckett Fuel pump for burner. I really do appreciate all the help that yall a giving me on this unit.
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The red star marks the bypass line from the unloader to the intake of the pump. From what I am reading that it is safe to run this line straight to the tank. I just purchased a new hi pressure hose for this. So basically this hose does not need to be hi pressure. Am I understanding this right. So I could run just a 1/4" poly hose from the unloader to the tank and I will be fine. The current hose is a 3/8" 6000 PSI ID and the orfice in the end of the hose appears to be approx. 11/64 but I have not measured it just going off sight. The 2 yellow stars is really the only thing that has changed other that removing the chem injection system from the pump. The 2 hose barbs are 1/2" ID compared to the 3/8" ID that was originally on there.
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Okay Great the cavitation is gone while running but now it started another issues. Pump Pulsates when the gun is released. I left the clear hose in for the time being just in case I have to move or cut it. Then I can use it as a template for the redline hose. I did a video of it than trying to explain it.
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Ok I have done a little diagram. I have looked and the installation diagram from GP. 1. The installation diagram has the chem injector on the hi pressure side but mine is on the intake side. (Good or Bad) 2. I am going to move the tank line to where the chem injector is. The unloader by pass is on the right side of the pump. (Can it stay there if I cap off the Cross section.) 3. I will be replace all the intake with brass fittings. 4. I am changing the intake line from the pump to a fiber reinforced hose. Thank yall for the help on this.