Xstream Clean

We're thinking about sending our water tank back to the manufacturer. We can't seem to dislodge this foreign object blocking the water flow !!

Has anyone seen my busimess partner???

We use a homebrew for our house wash mix. We use the X-jet to apply, and then also to rinse. From the time we pull up, to the time we pull off is normally two hours or less.

But this is what the coress looks like..... http://www.coress.com/home.htm

SafeRestore will remove the green runoff from the copper awning. I'm not sure about the brick, but we have used it on a driveway and it removed it completely. We used it full strength, two applications with about 10 min. dwell each application.

We tried a few local hardware stores and some auto supply shops and could not find any. There is a larger store a little further away that may have what we need, but I think we're going to try and make the "Phelps Wand". It sounds more like what we would need and will probably last a lot longer.

Thanks Scott. We'll do some research on the Phelps wand and see what's involved. One that you can make is definately cheaper than the $45 they are asking for!!

The 2' gun we use on our Femco (shurflo) has a hard time holding up with the chemicals we use. We've gone through 2 guns quickly @ $45 a pop! We took the first one apart and the ball bearing inside the trigger mechanism is corroding and allowing liquid to pass without the trigger being depressed. Our gun leaks a steady small stream even though we quickly rinse out the hose and gun after each chemical application. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good gun to use that will hold up to chemicals? If not, where can we get a good cheap 2' gun?

We are still a new company and haven't had the opportunity to perform any maintenance for repeat customers yet. What is involved in a maintenance wash on a deck sealed with WTW, say around two years ago? I've read a lot of info in previous posts, but was curious as to what is actually involved? EFC-38 followed by Citralic is what I have so far, but how deep do you actually clean? Is it more of a rinse with the intention of removing dirt and mold, or are you also trying to remove any loose or flaking sealer? I've had a potential customer ask me if we would have to strip the WTW the next time we sealed it, or if we could put another application on top of the old one after cleaning. Just trying to educated myself so I can pass this along to our customers! Thanks,

Thanks Beth, as always, very helpful. How do you guys charge when you are performing maintenance on the deck? Is it a set percentage below the original price, the same or what? Thanks,

Morgan, my name is Stephani (wife of Brian..xstream clean), was going back through the forum and & wondering how Shelby's rehab was going, it has been almost 3 full moths now and from seeing what stong girl she was early on, I am betting there are very few deficits now. Hope everyone is well. Praying for you. (God has a plan for that kid!)

We are in the process of giving an estimate to a homeowner that wants her deck stripped and stained. They stained their deck last year, but never completely finished it. We looked at the container of stain she used and the brand is "St. Louis Paints", NWP-UV, 50415 Dark Oak. Not sure whether it is latex or oil, but it appears to be oil based. We have used WTW exclusively so far, but she wants a color similiar to what she currently has on there. It is darker than WTW Warm Honey Gold, with more of a reddish tint. Does anyone have suggestions on a stain brand we could use that has a color similiar to her current one? It is approximately 550 sq. feet excluding rails and spindles.

We do a lot of gas stations and have been using F18 max. It works well as long as you dilute it right and let it dwell properly. We apply it with a Femco and use hot water with our surface cleaners. It doesn't remove the heavy oil stains, but does a good job lightening them up. We've also tried Super Flash from Zep. It's cheaper and comes in a powder form. It has worked great on residential concrete, but sub-par on commercial applications.

We did a house wash yesterday with pretty good results. All of the siding and most of the brick came clean using a housewash mix, however, the bricks at the bottom of the house have a lot of reddish brown dirt stains that did not come off. It looked clean wet, but after it dried you could still see the dirt. All we did yesterday was x-jet the housewash mix and rinse, no brushing. Today we are going to try and brush and maybe use some SafeRestore or NMD80. Does anyone have any suggestions or do you think this will work? Thanks, Brian

Thanks Roger....

The Joe Cocker guy from Bama is Taylor Hicks. Chris from NC is the bald rocker....

The Joe Cocker guy is from our home state, Sweet Home Alabama !! We've had Reuben, Bo, and now "Joe Cocker". Maybe he'll continue to do well, but he's got some tough competition!!

Hey everyone, Just trying to get some advice. We are going to talk to a lime manufacturing plant tomorrow about a potential job. The plant has a problem with lime dust getting in the air and on the houses, cars, heavy equipment, etc... in the area. The lime company is responsible for cleaning this dust each time it happens and want to meet with us about doing this work for them. Does anyone know of any concerns we need to be aware of before pressure washing this lime dust? Are there certain chemicals we need to not use due to a reaction? Any advice would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Brian

Thanks Scott...

They should, but that would eliminate the need for our services so we'll just keep that between us !!:lgsideway

What would the difference be between the roller and the pad? We almost bought the pad but were afraid the splinters would shred the pad to pieces. With the roller, you elimate that concern. Can you use the pad on railing, or are you spraying / brushing? We're new to staining decks, just trying to get some info, thanks.

What would you recommend for residential brick with heavy green mold?

When you are rinsing, how close are you having to get with the gun? With the Cleansol, we were still having to get within three inches of the siding for it to effectively clean / rinse. I'm afraid that using the hot water that close could cause damage.

Not being rude at all, valid point. We have not scheduled it yet, we have been working with a real estate agent who has a house she wants us to do, but the homeowners have not commited to it yet, so it may not happen. We have a product from EaCo Chem that we can use in a pinch called Cleansol BC. This is not what we want to use long term however, so we are trying to see what actually works and how to mix / apply it. We have two hot water units 3500 psi @ 5.2 GPM. We also have a Corress wand and the M5. We have not had the opportunity to use the extention wand or the x-jet yet, so we're still gathering info and trying to do this the right way to produce a quality job. Our concern is that it sounds like soap, chlorine, a rinse aid, and possibly some wax are the key ingredients to remove dirt, black mold and green algae from siding and even gutters. We just aren't sure how to mix the products. What ratios do you recommend for each for a standard siding job with dirt, mold, and algae? Also, if we are going to x-jet it, what tip do we use on the x-jet? It came with many different ones depending on how much you want to cut the mix. Also, when you are talking about the 12.5% chloring, do you just pull it straight from it's original container as is, or do we dilute it even more? Sorry for all the questions, but thanks again for everyones help.

This is a very informative post. We are getting ready to do our first house wash and I was wondering if you guys could give us some different housewash mix recipes. I have done a search already and found a few things that were helpful, but I could not find a specific recipe with amounts and what specific products to use. We were thinking about using some type of car wash due to the rinse agent and wax that is already built in. Any thoughts on this? Thanks again.