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You mean there are Doctors for that. I'm 51, had a physical in 72' when I went in to High School. I think I'll get one pretty soon, I think I said that at 40 too. I think I'm with Ron now, I'm afraid to. DON'T DO WHAT I'VE DONE OR HAVEN'T DONE!

Tony, here is another NO Knots for you.

Tony, I had to blend cedar tone with redwood tone with cedar semi & rustic brown together to get the perfect reddish brown. I just have to start an hour earlier & pull a trailer to haul everthing. LOL

If she wants it "perfect" as stated you need to sand it thoroughly. & if not sealed or stained, sanding will hold the color longer. There's no alternative to perfect.

Yea, there is a lot of pigment in that semi-solid. Here is a pic of an old redwood deck I did last week. Armstrong cedar semi-trans. We'll see what it looks like in a year, full sun.

If its a vertical burner it doesnt need to be insulated. just seal around the hole to keep flame contained

Eric, I have a Graco XR 7, works well for paint & stains, I used seperate hoses though for water & oil but same gun, although I use a Deckster sprayer for stains now. Back brushing, if material does soak in with in a few minutes will give you a better balanced application with more professional results, and better long term results, no lap marks or heavy spot showing up as wood ages. The same goes with painting, on rougher surfaces you should spray a smaller area back brush for better quality & appearance, Good luck

For a Woody that wood be great.

AC toner would be the best look on redwood, you dont have to give it so much pigment to get beauty, I rarely use semi transparents unless it is a really old beat up redwood deck.

You would be better off with the Dewalt 3750 or 3800psi 4.0gpm 13 hp Honda direct drive unit or equivilent if you want best prices. Ive got agazillon hrs on mine & still runs great. I pretty much use it for most of my cold water work. Keeps the hours of my 20 hp kohler her is pic. http://www.toolbarn.com/images/dewalt/dph3800.jpg

Mike, Its probably to late, but after sanding you can switch brands.

If you travel on a rough/bumpy road with the fuel on it will over fill the bowl & fill the cylinder. Ive had that happen afew times when the fuel wasnt shut off. In my case it never ran past the rings, just spit raw fuel out of the exhast untill it started.

Ditto what Ken said, we also do some spot sanding if neccessary. (even though the painters should do that.)

Tim K please add your signiture. I would recommend not doing anything for 6 mo. then clean with HD 80 or F-18 then neutralize with oxalic. For fasteners, I recommend using Stainless steel torx drive colored head trim screws. The reason why is this: I've seen to many Hardwood decks esp IPE, that when everthing shrinks the boards get loose & start to cup. When you use IPE clip, screw with plug, you can't go back & tighten them. Then you have a deck with loose boards & cupped, then In my opinion you just wasted a bunch of money for IPE. Yesterday I just washed a two year old IPE deck that is screwed from the top, but they put the screws too far in from the edge of the board & didnt retighten the screws every 3months( thats what I do ) so the board stays tight & doesnt have the opportunity to cup. Ive seen so many IPe decks that are a mess from improper installation & follow up maintenance. Hope this helps. I'll post a pic after tomorrow when I go back to seal thie IPE deck & show you what not to do.

Yea it takes a while. As I mentioned above I havent sanded pt lumber. And As I mentioned above. the only machine that will make fast work of heavily cupped boards is an American 8 or 12 (or equivilant brand) I have an American EZ8, which is probably what you are referring to, but it just doesnt cut it. Overall the 17" maintainer is more effective in cutting, IMO. I took my sanders to help out a friend & competitor (Matt C. Fireand Rain)on an Alasken Yellow Cedar deck for some experimentation. ( Wish I would have taken my Am. 12.) The AYC was cupped pretty bad. We tried the ez8(36grit), then the 17" maintainer(36grit), the maintainer was more effective in cutting. It still took alot of time, but got it done. Finished with the orbital 12x18 with 60grit. I got a little impatient so cut about 300 sq.ft. with my high speed secret. I wont get in to that , Matt might want to elaborate. Sorry we didnt take any pics of AYC, guess we were to busy! I know pt lumber is softer tha AYC, but dont know where it falls in. I could imagine it cutting similar to old growth conhrt. redwood that hasnt seen direct light. That stuff is pretty hard. Another way that is real effective & can be done for speed is put 20grit on the 17 mant. U cut most of the cup out without putting 20gr. marks in the center of the of the board which is the hardest place to get out the courser scratches. Hope that sheds a light on my experiences. It all comes down to if you going to do alot of sanding on cupped boards, invest in a large(heavyduty) drum sander, they KICK BUT. I'll post apic when I dig mine out of storage.

Beth& Rod, I like it on jobs that arent too cupped, cause its easy to use(when you master the machine), effective & faster cutting than an orbital (12x18)& an EZ8 drum(most of the time). This job the boards were pretty uneven so there was quite a bit of cutting in areas. Normally I would use my American 12 drum. (big, heavy 220v, but kicks the crap out of any deck including AL. Yellow cedar. I could have cut that deck above in 45 minutes instead of 4hrs. Guess I wanted a challange on this one.

Here are some pics of a job we just finished. Cut with maintainer, finished with 12x18 orbital 60grit. Sealed with A-Clark toner, cinnamon. (cedar toner/redwood toner mix)

You can also get paper at flooring supply wholesalers. NATE, Don't know if you've used a maintainer with sandpaper before, but it can be pretty tricky unless your a real master of the machine because of the resistance. Just a heads up. I personally have sanded approx. 60 thousand square ft of decking, heck may be 100k. All I know is I dont count sheep to sleep.

Yes you will get circular marks. We sand redwood & cedar with circular(17") floor sander 1st with 40 grit then 60 grit. Then to finish we use 60 to 80 grit with an orbital floor sander.(12x18) The 60 grit circular scratches sometimes arn't to bad & depending on the customer that may be OK. On softer decks we can often times go from the 40 grit circular to the 60 grit orbital & its fine. You can cut with 36 on an orbital, just takes longer to do the same amount of cutting. Havent sanded PT Pine so I really dont know how hard it is. IF Pine is more like yellow cedar you would need to do the 3 step sand to remove the course sand marks. Hope that gives you an idea of what to expect.

Grainger Industrial Supply This will give you and idea on compressors.

Based on past conversations with you, your methods now, & being new, & striving for the quality you want to provide, I say you're pretty right on with 4 hrs. Use the HD 80 so your wasting any time. Strong 38 works good, but Penofin can be real hard to get off with even 38.

Scott, Good Idea. PS, First link is bad, use second one.

Nice job Tony, Looks Great. The Sequoia looks good after all. Its the white that breaks it up & adds the "WOW" factor. Lyle

SealTech 333, is that the oil base or water base Deckscapes that your using?