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I started out part time years ago, with a 4x8 13" tire 2000lb cap. set up with a skid washer & 55 gal. tank for chems. or water for doing a quick demo. It worked out ok, but after a couple of years I was welding a couple of hairline cracks on trailer tongue etc. My advice is spend another 2-$300. or so & get a good 4 or 5x8 2500lb good name brand trailer. I believe it would be worth it. Good luck!

I might add it burnt all the insulation off the wires but the burner still worked.

I currently have a 12volt Silver Eagle propane machine "7gpm 4000 psi A/R pump Kohler engine' & have had no major issues. Burnt up igniter wires once because ther was a rag in the bottomof the airbox that caught on fire, My bad.

It does state it has a General pump. Below is from link given. The potential for problems is always there. Have had friends with Landa, Hydro tech, Mi-t-M, Hotsy, Delco, That have all had name brand components fail at the most in-opertune times & have called me to borrow/rent one of mine or have me finish the job for them. Ive had an A/R pump die with only 60hrs on it. Had a Landa machine with the old school 16 hp IC twin & ts 2021 pump go for 4200 hrs before the engine gave out & the pump had the head kit done once when it would only produce 2500 psi instead of 3000. The pump dripped water externally for the last 3 yrs but performed great. You JUST never know. Features: 4500 PSI W/W an industrial duty engine 12 Voltage DC ignition Diesel Fired Beckett burner, Max. temperature 190F Adjustable pressure & temperature control Pressure gauge is installed for easy reading and control Heavy formed steel body High pressure hose, gun, wand, tips & soap assembly Matched UL & CE in electric accessory Heavy duty welded wrap around roll cage for easy transportation and protection Portability kit includes wheels and easy pull handle OHV engine for high efficiency and reliability General triplex plunge pump with stainless steel valves and brass manifolds Direct drive pump system increases pump's life Corrosion proof polyethylene fuel tank All parts & accessories in stock

Matt, Thats great to hear! Just out of curiousity what color & transparency is it.

Rick & friends, Here are some pics of Mahogany deck with Wol. EHT. Maybe this will give an idea of color. I've used it before & after 2 years it looked pretty much just like the pics Rick posted. Works well on redwood / cedar too. The thing with eht is they have just one color. Apply in cool part of day if in the sun or you can get lap marks. It has a lot of pigment in it. Hope this helps anyone.

Generally a surface with "sheeting" action will evaporate faster than "beading". Less chance of discoloration from sun magnification or hard water deposits. For years I've compared the difference & found that sheeting action of a product has been beneficial. For 16 yrs. now I am still explaining to people that because their deck is not "beading" water that it is still being protected. My 2 cents worth, have Happy Holidays!

Awesome ride!!! I had 66 Sport Fury back in the day. Red like yours, black interior with buckets, console, 440 automatic with B&M valve body etc. EEEEENNNNJJJJOOOYYYY It!

If youre going to seal new wood you should still pw & condition, RE: citralic or borite for mill glaze removal. Bio-wash makes the borite mill glaze remover. The best sealer would be WTW cause alot of new boards are very wet & WTW as you know is moisture friendly. Thats what I use. Out here in Ca it is very important to seal them asap. The new growth Redwood & Cedar dry out to quick. Have seen 8-18 month old decks un treated look like 6-10 yr old decks. We usually end up sanding them, an unnecessary expense, but needed when neglected.

If you're a new "Woody" I recommend 12v. pumps Or pump ups if thats all you have to start. The chem. applications will be more affective & youll get better results. Once you get more experience & are able to "dial things in" then I would try down streaming. I would start by thinking Quality not Quanity. My .02. Good luck in your ventures

Shane, How do you spray the tops of the arbor when you have it bagged.

You guys that are trying the 18" staining pads, let us know how you like them. Itried them 3 or so years ago & didnt care for them. The tray is too small, too awkward, too many drips down the edges of boards, quality of application was just not there. That's my .02. I mostly brush with truck wash brushes, you can apply, brush the edges of boards & backbrush all with the same "tool" , except for edging at house ect. The brush is similar to the Deckster Hurricane brush which I also use.

I started using Wood Tux Wet. Primarily for a higher quality product & also to use a product that my competition isnt familiar with. Its pretty competitvie around here.

Scott, have you used The waterborne version, they converted it last year or the year before. Its is basically like WTW mixed with water, only a lot thinner. Alkyd/oil resins emusified to use water for carrier. The cedar tone is a very nice color. I have used the water formula early last year.

I used alot of Wolmans F&P before up untill last year. It performed well here in Ca. FYI F&P is not linseed oil base. Petro (mineral) parafinic oil base.

Wood-Tux & Some Ready Seal & Some Wolman's F&P. Long Live Wood-Tux Wet!

What do you usually use that sprayer for? You should be fine, no different than any other shurflo system.

If you are just doing a "light rinse" I just use a 5 jet waterbroom with a 3000psi machine warm water (if you can regulate) & roll it at an angle to push the dirt in front of you. Works great for me, fast & effective & with no chemicals.