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Greg, which media do you use on the solid stain, cob?

There is usually a difference in patience & thought process between a deckrestorer that does p-washing & a p-washer that does decks. Since I do mostly decks I feel some p-wash jobs are a PITA.

Eachochem Stripper cream, The Pro Sealer Store has it. Home

Ditto what James said, Its a small enough deck to sand, Do you need to sand the cracks? What color is the deck now. There are ways to sand the cracks. There is a thread discussing crack sanding with pics.

I assume you are referring to the pressure hose. You are fine with the 3/8. Supply line should be 3/4, or 5/8 min. with a buffer tank.

How large is the deck? Your best bet would be a drum sander with 36 grit followed with a 12x18 stand up orbital with 60 grit.

...+1

Sorry to see you go, Marko.

I think the colors are crisper looking when brightened.

I've had that happen also, (the bleeding of the sealer around the knots to the other side.)

Adrian, Looks good! How many sq. ft. was that fence? How many gallons of R/S did you use? Thanks in advance, Lyle

Omax is short for Olympic Maximum. The Omax is available in transparent, semi-trans. & solid. The Flood CWF Uv5 & the Omax will be available in Home Depots (Uv5) & Omax (Lowes) & both in local hardware stores & available in paint stores.

:DYeaaa! A new puppy!

George, I started out with an E350 Supervan with a rack. I had the skid cross ways even with the side sliding door, which is basicly over the rear axle. Get a surface cleaner with a foldable or removable handle. I had a 55 gal chem/water tank in there too.

Ive never had any problems with both my 18 Briggs Vanguards, or my 20 Kohler or my 13 honda. Ive been told by Techs. to stay away from the larger Hondas for the last 10 years.

Small tanks (5-55gal.) are for protection against poor water volume & pressure so you dont starve the pump. Lot of areas could have water issues, small lines w/ poor pressure & volume, wells etc. The smaller tanks are referred to as buffer tanks. Try doing another search on the topic. Call me if you want on any ?'s. I am a retired 25 year autobody tech., saw you are a bodyman also. Been doing p-washing & decks for 19 years. Lyle

Nice Reminder & guide!

Roger & Celeste, Sorry for your loss. My dogs were sad to hear the news too.

On the high dollar correct side of the issue, like Rod mentioned, herreis a system that drains the deck.( There are other patented systems too.) DEK Drain keeps the area under your deck DRY!. Double the use of your deck

Tony, A good alternative that I have done for air flow, to get enough volumne to really do any good is install Gable vents, they look good, stylish with lots of styles. Available in natural wood also. Here is a link for a visual. Hope this helps. Classie Louvers: Louver Vents, Gable Vents, Custom Louvers

I have 2 of those as well, see pics on my previous post.

These photos of a deck I worked on a month ago. THIS IS WHY HARDWOODS SHOULD BE MAINTAINED (sealed) & THE END CUTS WAXED(sealed) Don't know how old the deck is, but it had 2 or 3 coats of something on it for 3 or so years.

That deck is 2 year old IPE. It is sealed with WTW WHGold. I'm supposed to sand it this spring when I redo it. They didnt want to spend the money for sanding this year. Thats the 2nd IPE deck Ive seen out here that the board color is all over the place. (dark to light) Ipe is usually med. to dark boards, not real light like "sap" wood. The coloring of that deck looks more like the Cumuru deck. I think were getting all the IPE seconds out here, if there is such a thing. Gotta go to work, later all!

Ken, Click on attached image, it is an after pic.