acegot

Thats it, When you have a lot of transoxide pig. it gives you UV protection but not much color coverage, so you have to have good natural color of the wood itself for the finished product to look acceptable. For 3yrs old, thats the darkest PTP I've ever seen a pic of. The coloring looks more that of weathered Cedar.

By the way, your depiction of what Jake explained is correct to my knowledge. It is in the semi solid catagory based on volumne of total pigment & not type of "hiding" pigments.(opacity)

If after being neutralized, any black would be water damage. Young growth cedar & redwood are at times very vulnerable when not sealed with in the first year or less of exposure. The cedar semi should look similar to this on cedar.(attached pic)If the want more color than that you wouls need to use mountain cedar semi-solid. If its not what the customer is expecting, you should be able defelt as needed, comes off easy when freshly oiled, & reapply cedar semi-trans over the top, one good heavy even coat. Do a test spot first. You can call if you want for more details. I did ajob last week where the homeowner did there deck, it looked pretty good except thay had patches of fuzzies all over. It made her crazy. I came in & defelted the whole thing, swept off the goey fuzz,& applied another wet coat, expecting to back wipe alot of it off. Came back after 2.5 hrs & it all went in except a couple of spots near house that get all shade.

Ken, How do you store those 18's so they dont gum up overnight, I have a 5ver that i keep 1/2 full of sealer for my brush & pad storage, keeps them from drying up to reuse.

Ive had mine for 3 or 4 years no problems, The only material I couldnt use it with was WTW, like Rod said it gummed up cause the stuff dried so fast. Works well with RS & AC. It has a 9" brush on it, I buy the replacement "Quickie" brushes at Home depot & drill for the fittings & nozzles myself. I thought about doing an 18", but would need to reinforce or make a new pole. It flexes what I would consider the limit now.

Thats the Hurricane brush used with the Deckster sprayer. Good for those breezy, windy days. Deckster deck sprayer and accessories from Sun Brite Supply of Maryland

I stripped it on Tues., sealed it yesterday. Cedar tone with a little cedar semi & some red tint added. Hopefully I'll get to sand it next time, the deck is only 4-5 yrs old, the homeowner p-washed herself after a year & carved it all up trying to get off 1yr old super-deck that was over applied & turned dark. The main deck isnt too bad, but the lower deck, not pictured is really tore up.

How Sweet it is! Armstrong stains. 1st pic is cedar toner w/alittle redwood toner added on recently sanded redwood. 2nd is a cedar toner on redwood.

Ive been told by a sealer rep. that it can be done with a parrafinic oil sealer/stain if the tannins darken the wood. I dont know about the linseed/tung oil Superdeck finish. You could try it & see, apply, brush to try to work it in, let it dwell & hour rinse & see what it looks like.

The flow switch is the switch going in to the coil, test as Paul said.

+1 Lyle

Jason, What color/colors did you use?

Beth, Its a shame when people loose site of the big picture & dont acknowledge your efforts when youre there. And by the way, Ive got a tool for that! LOL :D

Good one Charlie. You forget to mention its fed by my Deckster. LOL

Thry work well, there is only one grit produced in that size that I'm aware of. That is the coarses one. I made some from the red & green 17" drive pads, but they really arent coarse enough, burnishes the wood. You need to use low rpm though, 1-3thousand rpm. Here is link. http://www.gkdist.com/

I dont use them very often, when those situations arise I just give them an option on the proposal. Most people dont worry about the cracks, but people like the fact that I even offer. It lets them know I am willing to do whatever it takes & what ever they would want to make their outdoor living space beautifull. Redwood is so soft & can be so vulnerable to chems & furring that i dont try to strip deep between the boards because of furring oon certain cuts of boards. Thats why I came up with the "WSS CRACK SANDERS", good job Tony

Anthony, looks great, what a visual improvement. What product & color did you use?

Attached are pics of 7" fibre resin back disks, they are available in 9", better for decks. Also pictured are backing pads, 7" pad & 9" plate I use fot 9" discs & the 9" defelting pads. The discs are thick & well constructed, they last a long time. These items are always found at autobody supply stores & at select hardware stores & welding & industrial supply stores.

Quote: Originally Posted by Tonyg if there was a special Crack Sander that was reserved for the WSS (Woody Secret Society). Here are pics of manual & power crack sanders. The manual is a crack cleaning tool that added a hd 7" fibre back sanding disc folded over & modified to attach. (50Grit) Works on 1/4" crack or larger. The power sander works on 3/16" or larger cracks & uses 7" fibre discs back to back with a 4.5" backing pad.

I did a thompson water-seal ultra last year, homeowner applied with pump sprayer heavy & left it. That stuff was so thick. Hottest sstripper mix & hottest water didnt even touch it, I could hereit laughing at me! I had to sand/grind it off, still a PITA, clogged the paper bad at first. Nasty stuff, especially when way over applied.

I have & use the fiber backed sanding/grinding disc also. Very effective. The hookit pads & paper are only good for up to 4000 rpm or theyll get to hot if your working them hard & they'll start to melt & fuse togther & start coming apart. The fibre discs will work on your lower rpm machines, will just take longer. My higher speed hd Dewalt rocks with the fiber discs. The fiber discs last along time & are less expensive to use in the long run. The fibre discs are more for rough fast cutting, for more detailed & lighter sanding use the hookit (hook&loop) pads & paper.

Tony, first of all great job on the deck, owners should be real happy with the transformation. I have a couple of methods to sand the cracks, I will post pics in a few days or so, havent used in a while, need to find & I have a busy weekl coming up.

Yes it will leave some swirl marks. Some times, depending on the grit & wood type , they may not be to bad. A circular is a faster way to sand rough wood or sand off old finsh. For a premium finish follow up with a orbital or random orbital sander with the same grit or finer.

Try dawn in water & 4 ot (0000) steel wool.

I sanded all the flat & the cap rails about 6 or 7 years ago & have maintained it since. Of what we could collect, there was about 3, 35 gallon garbage bags of dust from that job. Per year, I dont even know how much dust we produce. Makes good flower bed mulch.