acegot
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Posts posted by acegot
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Scott, Which color was that?
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Dont plastic the plants, it will burn them, no air & the sun seems to magnify through the plastic. I wet down the plants & use old bed sheets & keep them wet. I do that cause they are easier to dry & wash if needed than tarps. Another option might be fasten heavy enough plastic to the stone wall high & make like a lean to towards the ground & fasten. Thats only if there is enough area for run off to soak in in the bark area. Cant tell by the photo how close the grass is if there is any.
And you need to down size your pics before posting. You can do it in a photo editing software then post.
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Dan, I think that is petty common high w/paraffinic sealers, it just doesnt soak in & stay. You need more resin to stick to the hard areas to coat them. Thats my pinion on all the tests Ive done. All my testing is on Redwood & a little cedar both yellow & w/red. I did do 1 pt pine one once back in '96 or 7.
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That is pretty impressive, looks like wood isnt too dried out. I presume that is 100 series, which will probably be non existant next year when voc standards go 250 nationwide next year. The 500 series is voc compliant.
SCOTT, Do you know if they are going to keep the 100 series and keep both series?
Based on similar pricing AClark will out perform twp 500 series based on what Ive seen.
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How much sun exposure? As we all know sun does the most damage the first year.
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Keith, Your welcome on the tips. I havent uploaded too many pics on TGS, but the picture resolution may be real high, therefor taking a long time to upload & time out. Beth could tell you for sure.
Its a small world, Ive had several of my customers move to east coast over the years. From Mass. to N. Carolina to Georgia & Florida. I was born & raised in Illinois, moved to Ca. in 1980.
Take Care,
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Keith, you really dont need Hd 80 to remove F&P. It comes off pretty easy. Since you have it (80) coming use it but mix it as strong as it says, start with 4oz per gallon, also that will help make sure you will have enough. You can always add a little more to your mix to strengthen it up needed. A mix just strong enough to do the job also reduces furring, in return less labor, more profit. I can usually take off F&P with 4oz per gallon of EFC38. And I'm assuming your going to apply with a pump sprayer. Blue tape doesnt hold up for me. I use vinyl stucco tape. Home D carries it in Ca. They carry the vinyl & a cloth stucco tape which is the cloth is like duct tape. You want the vinyl, cause clth have more adhesive to break down & leave behind to clean off. Good luck.
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The Omax & the WTW were pretty equal as far as appearance, looked good after washed dried, you could definitely tell there was still protection. The RS after washed & dried looked pretty dry like it washed off. Wouldnt use it again & havent since. I use Napier "Simple Wash" mostly on my annual cleanings. I like it. Its a pretty mild soap w/phosphoric acid, so it brightens some to.
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If they want the same color or close, just clean & recoat.
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I used RS on Trex once & it turned dark pretty quick, maybe the trex wasnt dried out enough, the sealer was too "live" & all the dirt stuck to it. I just started using a lite coat of Wood Tux on trex when needed so you get a good positive dry, seems to work better. Dirt rinses off better. Just my experience. I just remembered I used Omax waterbase toner on a natural Trex once & that worked well also. Did a maintenance wash on all of the above in approx 1 year after application.
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Did you do the inside too? What sealer? Looks Great!
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Matt, I've got that setup. you vary the the rpm with the trigger. it uses a "Twist lock" pad set up & also had sanding pads. I'll take a picture of my setups I use & post in the next couple of days.
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DRobb, Contact www.thestainshop.com they are the AC distributor for your area
The are owned by www.greatlakespressurecleaning.com I'm sure they can answer all your ?'s.
Good Luck, Lyle
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Tom, How long has the site been up. Were you ever able to search deck cleaning joliet & get anything. Did you build the website yourself. When I get answers to these ?'s I'll talk to the guy who did my site.
Lyle
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Tony, You would want to use Natural so you have some uv in the mat. over clear. I dont have any pics but I have mixed Nat. & Rustic brown semi together for a sample & its a nice tranpsparent brown tone. Ive done Cedar transp. & rustic semi & it has a bronze tone. I wish I had those to show you but I didnt think to take a pic before I gave them to the cust. & didnt get them back.
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I'm not a roof expert, but is there a reason why you didnt use chemicals? You could do half at a time & wash from the top down so it wouldnt be slippery. You could cut your washtime in half. If your going to do much p-washing at all you really need a bigger machine. (gpm) The lowballers have to have some sort of upsell. Like if the house has algae/mildew its double or something. LOL
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That is the name of the product. Here is yahoo search result. I talked to a guy who used it as per instructions & said it works well. Stains hold color longer, keeps from drying out so fast. Sounds good if it works. I dont know about standing behind it though.
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Lifetime™ Waterproofing Sealant | Application Instructions
... the penetration and waterproofing effect of Lifetime™ Sealant. b. WOOD AGE: When Lifetime™ Sealant is applied to wood, the wood must be properly seasoned. ...
www.coatingsinternational.com/products/lifetime/liapp.shtml - Cached
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Lifetime™ Waterproofing Sealant | Application Instructions
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Matt, Use percarb to clean, brighten heavily & make sure to let it dwell long enough. I have only done alaskan cedar twice, once with R-S & once with Menwood, which is a high quality product similar to A-C. The Menwood held up much better on the A-Cedar.So I would definitely recommend the A-C cedar transparent & "load it up" if you really want to make it a "model" project. Call me if you want, good luck Matt, Lyle
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You're using 100 series where you're at? Have tried 500 series?
Sometimes, I think sealers work different in other parts of the U.S.??, but just an observation.[/quoteI believe that also. I think there are only a couple of sealers that are fairly consistent with theyre performance nationwide.
Here in Ca. most decks are Redwood, With the same procedures, Chems.& Sealers on a variety of decks, sometimes the results are alarming to me. Good & not so good to me. The customers are satisfied though. Thats the main thing.
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Sealerguy, What have you been using?
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The Cabot 3600 I believe is a natural tint, not a clear. It also is an acrylic base(harder to strip). Dont know what kind of wood, Pine, Cedar, etc,? Some decks look much nicer without clear or a natural tint. Sometimes natural beauty is not beauty at all, & most all clears will grey out quickly. Defy has about the only clear that holds color for any length of time. (1year) Post what kind of wood.
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I started out part time years ago, with a 4x8 13" tire 2000lb cap. set up with a skid washer & 55 gal. tank for chems. or water for doing a quick demo. It worked out ok, but after a couple of years I was welding a couple of hairline cracks on trailer tongue etc. My advice is spend another 2-$300. or so & get a good 4 or 5x8 2500lb good name brand trailer. I believe it would be worth it. Good luck!
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I might add it burnt all the insulation off the wires but the burner still worked.
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I currently have a 12volt Silver Eagle propane machine "7gpm 4000 psi A/R pump Kohler engine' & have had no major issues. Burnt up igniter wires once because ther was a rag in the bottomof the airbox that caught on fire, My bad.
Project advice
in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
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Keith, with just doing the railing I would say 600 + mat. would be minimum for a professional job. You may need to do some hand sanding also for prep & not just synthetic steel wool for prep. That wood looks pretty smooth.