acegot
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Posts posted by acegot
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All wood cracks & or checks badly out here. The sunny hot dry weather out here is brutal on exterior wood.
And to repond to Daniel's comments, I care! I build decks too, & I seal all endcuts on all woods, covered or not. You spent a lot time writing about something you dont care about.
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The other thing I've seen is when the end cuts arent sealed, is when you restore the deck the color does'nt come back as nice on the ends. (as any wood does & that you've seen). Thats one of the things that bothers me is when you restore (sanded or not saneded, but especially sanded)a deck that has not been maintained regularly, is the discolored ends of the boards.
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No. It makes more mess than it is worth. Ipe will check and crack to a small extent whether you do it or not.The anchor seal makes a huge difference, Ive seen large end cut checking cracks on 8-12 yr old unsealed ipe etc. Nasty
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you didnt do the pergola?They might have ponied up the money, but there wasnt much time, A neighbor (whose deck I did) referred them on Thurs. re-worked my schedule to start on Tues. & have 3 hrs repair on other end of deck by spa, sanded, washed, dried & sealed to have ready to use Sat. afternoon for a Halloween party! Luckily it was in the upper 70's so the stain dried quickly.
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Thanks Rick, I love our Redwood!
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Here are finished pics. Still drying. Armstrong - Clark Cedar toner, Redwood toner w/ Rustic Brown semi (4-1-1)
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Just did this last week, Here is how I strip SPF, its called SANDING.
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All I know is, there are somethings you should'nt wish for!
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a perfect summation..... +1
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It was was sanded flat you should be fine, If not sure, brighten, light rinse, let dry & stain.
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I'm so bummed :( I can make it this year. Was looking forward to meeting everyone. Everyone have a good time & enjoy!!!:cheers:
Lyle
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Lyle, I actually thought about giving you a call earlier. LoL I got just about all of it sanded. Looks pretty good except for the small part with all the screws......All right! Are you using the 12x18 orbital?
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I have 3 of the 36" aluminum shields from H-Depot, they work well.
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Ive had that, just gave the customer a heads up on what needed to be done charged accordingly, and all the ones that twisted off we ran a new screw in the same hole at just enough angle to miss the broken part.
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I won't risk my companies reputation on new products that don't have a history of use and maintenance in my area. I won't use products that the manufacturer is constantly making changes to without notifying me.
The same applies in my book to Armstrong Clark, Very good product, as is Ready Seal. Have used them both, prefer AC., same formula for over 8 years, proven quality track record, as is RS. Find AC more versatile application wise. My largest issue with RS was odor, in the redwood only formula, dont know if the reg. formula smells the same or not.
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I was thinking about trying to use wolmans F&P on this deck. Anyone got any input on that? ThanksF&P is a good product, I used it for a 2or3 years, now use primarily Armstrong-Clark. Drier wood I did a "wet" on "wet" application back brushed, newer & shade protected wood 1 wet coat backbrushed. Backwipe any "shiny" areas after 45 minutes, if applied in sun backwipe after 20 minutes if needed, hope this helps.
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Thanks Rick, The only colors I've used were light brown & nat. cedar.
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Rick, nice job. How does the medium red compare to the natural cedar, same amount of red, just little darker brown than the nat. cedar?
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Elaborate on what you are implying, You have not said anything, that means anything. Please give some specifics.
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Just go with the Messmer's, there has been good results reported for the product with proper prep of the new wood. Search here on this forum for proper prep.
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Lyle,Do you understand why the color turn so dark? Did what I say about the copper make sense, or is it something else?
Jon, It may very well be, not sure, just know it doesnt darken as much on my redwood 2x6 plank as it does on cedar shakes(older cleaned & neutralized. Why, I'm not sure.
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Lyle,I'm familiar with the contractor of which you speak. They do some beautiful work. I believe they base the ratio (500 to 200) based on the porosity/appearance of the wood. Really old, dingy shingles will get a batch closer to straight 200, while the fresher wood gets something closer to 500.
Have you ever played with 200? I've dabbled, but never applied to anything. All samples I did turned out darn near black---I don't care how long it holds up, I'm not a good enough salesman to get my money at the end of the job if the deck doesn't look great. It can look black on app, and dry to the lightest gold you've ever seen. Very odd. As I understand, it has something to do with the copper reacting and turning very dark until it cures.
Jon, same as you, dabbled a little bit. It was just simplier to blend the 300(high resin) w/ 500 to make the 500 last longer & make it a surface drying product.
I believe on decks the 200 - 500 (60-40)blend doesnt darken much before the color settles.
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Curious, what didnt work right? Was it a propane or diesel?
Do you have to seal the end grain of IPE?
in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
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From the Restorers outlook, on a new or newer deck of anywood, that does'nt have sealed endcuts, if you load up the ends of the boards between the facia, it will protect well with regular maint.