Tim UK

Your answers have been a real help to me. I know for a fact that the water pressure here cannot keep up with my machine, which is only rated at 3.5 gallons, so I know I need a tank. I can't risk cavitation in the pump, so cannot rely on faucet pressure alone. I have searched UK web sites for those round poly tanks you have, with no luck. I do have a suitable tank, but it's flat. I don't think this matters. What may matter is that I will mount my pw machine on the trailer on a skid, and this will mean that its inlet could easily be higher than the outlet from the float. I wonder if the machine will not worry about this, and simply suck the water out? Anyone know? Tim

Right, I see, so the upshot is that unless you re into valeting vehilces where you might want dionized water, there isn't much need for a large tank, like those 250 gallons ones? Rod, you just have a small three gallon tank that helps prevent cavitation, I understand that. So when nIget get to putting a trailer together, I need only really put a tank on board, feeding the pressure washer, that is sufficient to feed the washer. All the time this tank would be fed via a ballcock/valve to ensure it does not overflow into the trailer. Think I got it now.

Thanks Both, We use wheelie bins here becasue, um, I don't know, I just found that was what a few guys here did, so I did the same! Mind you, I don't have my pw fixed on a skid, it's on wheels so I can get to places, so take the wheelie bin with me. Yes, it has a filling valve fitted to stop flow in. Obviously it only takes 360 litres, but I know some here use a float tank much smaller, perhaps only 100litres. As long as we have a float tank of some kind it doesn't seem to matter. I am guessing now, but I suppose if the pw machine is fixed to a trailer, and you therefore may as well fiz a flaot tank to that as well, then you can make it a big one. But even 250 gallons (c. 800l) isn't going to last long, you will have to fill from a tap (faucet) somehow. So why not just have a small float tank you lot? Instaed of 250 gallons, why don't you hav, say, 50 gallons? I expcect poly tanks are available here. In my case, I need to keep my trailer small so that I can hide it away when not in use, so the float tanks needs to be small to accommodate the other kit. I rely on moving my pw and tank around off the trailer, and so have a short-ish length of pressure hose. Any observatiosn welcome. I am planning on going for a fixed/skid mount and tank soonish, but need to keep size of trailer down. Tim

H ieveryone, been a while since I posted on here, and I wanted to double check my knowledge on something. I use what I call a 'float tank' for my pw - it's a waste bin, that we call a 'wheelie bin'. Having seen the tanks you guys seem to carry on your trailers, I was wondering if they are the smae thing - a float tank? If so, do you generally carry some water to your destination for work and keep it topped up when working? Presumeably the volume wouldn't be enough for the average job? And thirdly, what size are these tanks you use? Many thanks, Tim

Have you tried Merrill Fox in FL? Go to the cleaningpros website for more info on this subject. www.cleaningpros.co.uk http://www.merrillfoxenterprises.com/index.html

geez......... thanks chaps! Well, I'm pretty chuffed with it, and it is a lovely wood, no doubt. You are all gents and scholars. :)

Rightho boys, this morning saw me clean my first deck... I know there have been lots of 'first decks' here already, but indulge me... You might remember that a few days ago I made a post asking for info on a deck I was asked to clean that was made from iroko - I subsequently found that this is also known as African teak. Anyway, this deck was as grey as they come. It was about ten years old, and someone with a household pressure washer had 'cleaned' it about three years ago, and indeed the customers then were 'happy', in their words. Anyway, they called me in this time - in response to one of my adverts in the local post office. I have never cleaned a deck before, and have VERY limited experience of pw any kind of wood. Well, I cranked up the machine and got to work. I used full power (3000 psi) but held the lance well off the wood. I used a 45 degree tip, rather than the 15 degree tip, as I really wanted to tone things down and start off low and work up. This tactic worked well, and the crud came off nicely. Anyway, yak yak, the deck came up lovely. Now, I did not use any chems, and certainly not bleach as the owners did not want the side or the hand rails etc cleaned, and any run-off would have screwed them right up. I did not offer any oils or finishes, given my limited knowledge, but I would definitely appreciate ANY input on this matter from you guys. Please. I have to say that I am so happy that my first deck was this beautiful, and expensive, iroko. What a result, imo; there is so much cheaper softwood decking in the UK, you would be shocked. This deck was small, but the wood was fantactic, and although it isn't shown, the setting in this English garden (hi Rick!), was lovely. And they want me to go back next year too. All the best, Tim Here ya go, and no, they wanted the bench left covered in lichens and grime! Here are the afters - with flash... Obviously it's still wet, but I hope this brings out the beauty of this exotic wood.

Done that deck I mentioned - I'll do another thread on that.

Thanks Ken, Rick. All I would add to this is that these photographs were taken with a flash on the camera, and it made quite a difference to the resulting photos. Can I just say that this si the first time that I have used props in the after picture? I have just tried to copy advertiser's practice, and that is the kind of thing they would do! That's real orange juice, and crossants, by the way, and it was tough resiting eating them before I took the photos... I think that dressing furniture like this is a good idea, and I am building my portfolio. I have a deck to do tomorrow (that iroko one) and hopefully it will be good enough to use. However, the owners only want the horizontal surface cleaned, not the rails etc, so it's not going to be as full on as you guys do. Thanks again, Tim

Here are a couple of before and afters.

I don't know what Oxyclean is, but I do have sodium hypochlorite, but am reluctant to use it on this wood. I feel that if I did, I would HAVE to apply some sort of finish. Tim

Touche! Seriously though, I meet all kinds of people in this job (including window cleaning), as we all, do, and there's nowt so queer as folk, as they say (in UK, anyway). Ken, I'll keep an eye out on this furniture and keep you all posted on what happens. I would say this, there is very little on the shop shelves that helps the homeowner, let alone the pro, deal with mildewcide etc. Maybe it's because we live in a basically damp old place, that the conditions are rarely good enough to enjoy the great outdoors. Cheers everyone, have a great weekend, whatever you are doing. Tim :)

Hi Ken, no probs with comments - that's what I come here for, however I believe the grey you are referrign to is the shaded part of the garden where I took the photos. The wood is completely clean. I didn't mix up my own oxalic acid mainly because I had that product to hand, I and I knew that it contained oxalic, and was recommended for use in cleaning wood. I don't honestly know of a mildewcide/fungicide I could use (here in the UK, anyway). I ran the machine at full bore and held the lance off the wood by 6" or so. I took some advice partly from this site and partly from the maufacturer's website about how to deal with teak, and the pointers were to leave alone. The customer was happy with the finish, and I do think that the English prefer not to have things looking so spick and span. Clean yes, not showroom finish. I can't see into the future, Ken, although I am working on it... :lgsideway My original agreement with the client was that he was to apply a finish to the furniture. I then changed my mind about that and realsied I could benefit more by doing it myslef, and getting some great photos for my portfolio. As it's turned out, it appears that the wood is best left bare, but that's not everybody's opinion. I thank all for their comments, really. Tim ps foc = free of charge - sometimes in my vocab, Rick, if it's part of the sell.

Rick, that's settled it - I'm not going to apply anything to the furniture. Customer is delighted anyway. Cheers! Just saved me some extra work (which was going to be FOC!!!) Have a beer on me. It is Friday after all! Tim

So are you saying that applying teak oil (or any oil for that matter) serves only to enhance the appearance? If that's the case, I can save myself a lot of trouble by leaving alone...