Tim UK

Hi What is the 'BDA', please? Thank you.

H ieveryone, been a while since I posted on here, and I wanted to double check my knowledge on something. I use what I call a 'float tank' for my pw - it's a waste bin, that we call a 'wheelie bin'. Having seen the tanks you guys seem to carry on your trailers, I was wondering if they are the smae thing - a float tank? If so, do you generally carry some water to your destination for work and keep it topped up when working? Presumeably the volume wouldn't be enough for the average job? And thirdly, what size are these tanks you use? Many thanks, Tim

Your answers have been a real help to me. I know for a fact that the water pressure here cannot keep up with my machine, which is only rated at 3.5 gallons, so I know I need a tank. I can't risk cavitation in the pump, so cannot rely on faucet pressure alone. I have searched UK web sites for those round poly tanks you have, with no luck. I do have a suitable tank, but it's flat. I don't think this matters. What may matter is that I will mount my pw machine on the trailer on a skid, and this will mean that its inlet could easily be higher than the outlet from the float. I wonder if the machine will not worry about this, and simply suck the water out? Anyone know? Tim

Right, I see, so the upshot is that unless you re into valeting vehilces where you might want dionized water, there isn't much need for a large tank, like those 250 gallons ones? Rod, you just have a small three gallon tank that helps prevent cavitation, I understand that. So when nIget get to putting a trailer together, I need only really put a tank on board, feeding the pressure washer, that is sufficient to feed the washer. All the time this tank would be fed via a ballcock/valve to ensure it does not overflow into the trailer. Think I got it now.

Thanks Both, We use wheelie bins here becasue, um, I don't know, I just found that was what a few guys here did, so I did the same! Mind you, I don't have my pw fixed on a skid, it's on wheels so I can get to places, so take the wheelie bin with me. Yes, it has a filling valve fitted to stop flow in. Obviously it only takes 360 litres, but I know some here use a float tank much smaller, perhaps only 100litres. As long as we have a float tank of some kind it doesn't seem to matter. I am guessing now, but I suppose if the pw machine is fixed to a trailer, and you therefore may as well fiz a flaot tank to that as well, then you can make it a big one. But even 250 gallons (c. 800l) isn't going to last long, you will have to fill from a tap (faucet) somehow. So why not just have a small float tank you lot? Instaed of 250 gallons, why don't you hav, say, 50 gallons? I expcect poly tanks are available here. In my case, I need to keep my trailer small so that I can hide it away when not in use, so the float tanks needs to be small to accommodate the other kit. I rely on moving my pw and tank around off the trailer, and so have a short-ish length of pressure hose. Any observatiosn welcome. I am planning on going for a fixed/skid mount and tank soonish, but need to keep size of trailer down. Tim

Have you tried Merrill Fox in FL? Go to the cleaningpros website for more info on this subject. www.cleaningpros.co.uk http://www.merrillfoxenterprises.com/index.html

Rightho boys, this morning saw me clean my first deck... I know there have been lots of 'first decks' here already, but indulge me... You might remember that a few days ago I made a post asking for info on a deck I was asked to clean that was made from iroko - I subsequently found that this is also known as African teak. Anyway, this deck was as grey as they come. It was about ten years old, and someone with a household pressure washer had 'cleaned' it about three years ago, and indeed the customers then were 'happy', in their words. Anyway, they called me in this time - in response to one of my adverts in the local post office. I have never cleaned a deck before, and have VERY limited experience of pw any kind of wood. Well, I cranked up the machine and got to work. I used full power (3000 psi) but held the lance well off the wood. I used a 45 degree tip, rather than the 15 degree tip, as I really wanted to tone things down and start off low and work up. This tactic worked well, and the crud came off nicely. Anyway, yak yak, the deck came up lovely. Now, I did not use any chems, and certainly not bleach as the owners did not want the side or the hand rails etc cleaned, and any run-off would have screwed them right up. I did not offer any oils or finishes, given my limited knowledge, but I would definitely appreciate ANY input on this matter from you guys. Please. I have to say that I am so happy that my first deck was this beautiful, and expensive, iroko. What a result, imo; there is so much cheaper softwood decking in the UK, you would be shocked. This deck was small, but the wood was fantactic, and although it isn't shown, the setting in this English garden (hi Rick!), was lovely. And they want me to go back next year too. All the best, Tim Here ya go, and no, they wanted the bench left covered in lichens and grime! Here are the afters - with flash... Obviously it's still wet, but I hope this brings out the beauty of this exotic wood.

geez......... thanks chaps! Well, I'm pretty chuffed with it, and it is a lovely wood, no doubt. You are all gents and scholars. :)

Hi all, I cleaned a few items of garden furntiure this morning, and am a bit unsure what to do next to finish it off. The first photo shwos the before, and you can see it's all grey and green with lichens growing on it. Then I applied a chemical known here as 'Netrol' which contains oxalic acid. I let this dwell for 20 minutes then run a yard brush loosely over it. Then I used 15 degree tip held about 5-6 inches off the surface. Second photo shows result. I am unsure what wood this is, so how should I proceed? I can only think of using teak oil, but not sure if this would be ok IF the wood is not actually teak. Other two pics are closeups. Please help if you can. Thanks, Tim

Done that deck I mentioned - I'll do another thread on that.

Thanks Ken, Rick. All I would add to this is that these photographs were taken with a flash on the camera, and it made quite a difference to the resulting photos. Can I just say that this si the first time that I have used props in the after picture? I have just tried to copy advertiser's practice, and that is the kind of thing they would do! That's real orange juice, and crossants, by the way, and it was tough resiting eating them before I took the photos... I think that dressing furniture like this is a good idea, and I am building my portfolio. I have a deck to do tomorrow (that iroko one) and hopefully it will be good enough to use. However, the owners only want the horizontal surface cleaned, not the rails etc, so it's not going to be as full on as you guys do. Thanks again, Tim

Here are a couple of before and afters.

I don't know what Oxyclean is, but I do have sodium hypochlorite, but am reluctant to use it on this wood. I feel that if I did, I would HAVE to apply some sort of finish. Tim

Touche! Seriously though, I meet all kinds of people in this job (including window cleaning), as we all, do, and there's nowt so queer as folk, as they say (in UK, anyway). Ken, I'll keep an eye out on this furniture and keep you all posted on what happens. I would say this, there is very little on the shop shelves that helps the homeowner, let alone the pro, deal with mildewcide etc. Maybe it's because we live in a basically damp old place, that the conditions are rarely good enough to enjoy the great outdoors. Cheers everyone, have a great weekend, whatever you are doing. Tim :)

Hi Ken, no probs with comments - that's what I come here for, however I believe the grey you are referrign to is the shaded part of the garden where I took the photos. The wood is completely clean. I didn't mix up my own oxalic acid mainly because I had that product to hand, I and I knew that it contained oxalic, and was recommended for use in cleaning wood. I don't honestly know of a mildewcide/fungicide I could use (here in the UK, anyway). I ran the machine at full bore and held the lance off the wood by 6" or so. I took some advice partly from this site and partly from the maufacturer's website about how to deal with teak, and the pointers were to leave alone. The customer was happy with the finish, and I do think that the English prefer not to have things looking so spick and span. Clean yes, not showroom finish. I can't see into the future, Ken, although I am working on it... :lgsideway My original agreement with the client was that he was to apply a finish to the furniture. I then changed my mind about that and realsied I could benefit more by doing it myslef, and getting some great photos for my portfolio. As it's turned out, it appears that the wood is best left bare, but that's not everybody's opinion. I thank all for their comments, really. Tim ps foc = free of charge - sometimes in my vocab, Rick, if it's part of the sell.

Rick, that's settled it - I'm not going to apply anything to the furniture. Customer is delighted anyway. Cheers! Just saved me some extra work (which was going to be FOC!!!) Have a beer on me. It is Friday after all! Tim

So are you saying that applying teak oil (or any oil for that matter) serves only to enhance the appearance? If that's the case, I can save myself a lot of trouble by leaving alone...

Rick, I have now ascertained that the two smaller armchairs are of a different wood to the table and bench - for one thing they are heavier. They also showed very different weathering to the other two pieces - weird: as if they had a skin and blotches of it had come off - imagine if someone was burnt in a fire; not a nice thought, but the descrption is accurate. This appearance came off in the clean, but has left an indelible mark. The owner isn't worried about it. He has just said put something on to protect the wood, but not to darken it by much. So I think I shall be putting a teal oil (non-coloured) on it all. On this question of teak, I have read conflicting advice on a manufacturer's web site that says there is no advantage is applying teak oil - unless you want to achieve that 'out of the showroom' appearance. Something it seems the British aren't too keen on! If I remember, I will put some pictures up of the finished articles. Thanks, Tim

Hi I have done a quick search for iroko on the search facilty but have come up with no matches. I have been asked to clean the flat surfaces ONLY of an iroko deck. I am specifically asked NOT to clean the handrails nor the front of the deck.... remember, this is England we're talking here...! So, bleach is out of the question, and ANY runoff would go down the front of the deck and mark it. Customer loves the algae/grey/black nastiness. So, do I just turn down the pressure and hold back with the lance? Has anyone any experience of working with iroko on decking? You won't be surprised when I say that this couple don't want the deck 'finished' either - just the bare wood. ALL replies very welcome - I'm doing the clean this Monday, so I have a few days to research this. Thank you, Tim

Thanks Beth, yes, I saw that one too. Tim Anyone got any more info on how to pw this iroko/African teak?

With this ride I'm currently on (using chems this and chems that), I was wondering if anyone uses pressure alone to clean furniture and decking? Is is possible to achieve great results doing this? Holding back the pressure where appropriate? Tim

I love the imagery of the 'Brit'. Rick!!! If only... well, of course, some of the English are VERY particular, and some are not. I see many a wooden structure fall into disrepair - it really is as if the 'Brits' (yuk, btw!) don't want to pay to keep something going, they would rather pay more in the long run, but buying a fence and then letting it rot away. Shame. But there are folk who Do care about every last detail... I have a window cleaning customer who takes a great deal of interest in the pure water cleaning I offer becuas ehe says it helps him to identify potential problems with his old wooden window frames. If only EVERYBODY took that sort of care with their homes. No, some people are lazy and mean, and want an easy way out, and they aren't the kind of people I was as customers, either as pressure washing/wood care, or window cleaning either. Bit off topic that. Sorry. Anyway, I am a lot more enlightened now because of the interesting exhange of ideas and opinions betwixt Rod and Roger. For myself, I shall be trying a weak sodium hypochlorite mix on Friday, on two garden chairs and a table, to see how it goes for me. My test areas will be underneath the items, so that any differences don't show up, and I will be applying an oil (brand name in UK is Ronseal) to all items. Thanks everyone, esp Rick, to whom I shall lend my bowler hat and red London bus! Tim

Having read fairly deeply the back posts on TGS about sodium hypochlorite, sodium hydrochloride (lye) and sodium percarbonate, my interest has been well and truly whetted. I am interested in carrying out some tests of my own with these things, and I am lucky that I have a few window cleaning customers who have small sections of rather well worn fences and gates that they will let me practice on. Lucky me! I have hyochlorite and hydrochloride (that's lye, right?), already, but I have no idea how to get hold of sodium percarbonate. I think I read Ken say that he sourced it in a powdered laundry cleaning form. Is this correct? I am not planning on using these fences, small (like 12' at the MOST) across with the pressure washer, UNLESS it is thought absolutely necessary. I am thinking of ordinary hose water/pressure, after the application of the chems. Thoughts? Tim ps, the fences I am talking about have really just about had it, but I think would be good test areas.

Cheers, Rod.

Thanks Rod, yes, I have read the FAQ's - take time for the info to sink in.