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Posts posted by Patrick Rhea
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Here is a quick update after a couple weeks of the deck settling in and the second coat of stain around the previous stained area. We brushed Acetone on the area around the hot tub to try and get it to blend better since it appeared so dark. I have to say that the way this whole thing played out was unexpected for sure. It looks pretty good now but it was uncertain as went along. Thanks to all of you who pitched in pointers along the way...
After all this we know exactly how we would do it differently for sure...Many lessons learned.
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I would have to get on a lift on this side to spray it on there with a pump up? You would never shoot it up there??
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Went and did the side of a two story with my 12v bandit and could not get it clean. The mix I used was basically 1 gal of 12% per five. I used 2 per 5 on the last job with my x-jet... Figured with no dilution this mix would be strong enough. It cleaned the whole house except where the chimney flashing was bleeding down the side. Obviously not mold like the rest of the house but there was still some black streaks as well as what looks like rust? Should I get some F9 on this? I think solution mix is part of the problem but no real pressure from the bandit to rinse that high. No more than hose pressure anyway.. This should have been an easy fix? What to do differently next time?
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I will send a picture later when we get back to that job. But application if second coat on the rest "should" diminish the second coat stopping point. Some of the issue as I see it is the tendency to push more sealer into the dark area creating a third layer as you apply the second to the surrounding cedar..
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The area was heavily coated two costs before any additional stain was applied to the rest if the deck, so the area is darker. The owner requested that this area be stained twice before the rest of the deck was done because of an object that needed to be set there right away for a remodel. The rest of the deck only has one coat of sealer still. So the area is naturally darker than the rest of the deck.. We are hoping that our second coat in the rest hides where that area stops / starts...
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We ended up not using a sprayer at all. We used deck pads on the whole thing. There is an area that had lap marks we need to figure out how to even out. A second coat was done there before a second coat was done on the rest of the area at customers request. An object had to be set there before the rest of the deck could be done during a remodel. How to blend in the lap marks?
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Cabot clear stain can turn cedar pretty dark over time I have seen, recently.
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Yeah, was a bit skeptical at first to use it, but figured I should at least see how it works. Needless to say, I will be getting a M5 ordered right away (as back up to my back up of course:mushroom:) I wouldn't want to suggest that it would be my go to just yet...You never know though. I even used the instructions that came with it on chem mix...go figure. I thought for sure it wouldn't work on the gutters at all. I was almost certain I would be either getting on the roof or scrubbing them somehow. Did neither!~!
I don?t see how I could jet an entire roof though with a strong mix?? Any wind or angle I cant get to gets me on the roof and negates the bucket and hose ordeal... Anyone?
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We had a residential job this past week that we would normally use our Fat Bandit on to clean but it is mounted in another trailer with tanks. We were doing some major concrete cleaning with our pressure washers that are on a different trailer. I had bought on a whim an x-jet for like cheap back up. I had it with us an decided to try it instead of switch out equipment and come back for the gutter/house cleaning. Mixed 2 gals of 12% in a 5 gallon bucket with a healthy squirt of Dawn. Stood back 12 ft and shot the gutters and siding, let it sit all foamy for 10-12 minutes then rinsed off with the x-jet.
I have to say that this saved me a ton of time on this one job and the extra pressure for rinsing off on the second story gutters from the ground were awesome. All of it was done from the ground
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No behr stain... The owner had the deck installed and she did not know what stain was used 7 years ago, but I found the Cabot under the deck...
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No behr stain... The owner had the deck installed and she did not know what stain was used 7 years ago, but I found the Cabot under the deck...
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The original stain was a Cabot clear on this deck. There was an old 5 gal pail of it in the shed I found. The front porch had an attempt of another coat of some ace hardware version of oil and resin. It was a small section that needed sanding after stripping. It left an orange looking flaky top residue that sanded off easily. All the wood looked pretty good after being stripped except the darkened knots.
My first thoughts while staining were that the ox didn't neutralize the SH that soaked deep into the wood possibly. Or that I didn't utilize enough ox. If I had left the deck unsealed it would have looked almost like new cedar.. Except for the felted areas...[ATTACH]20405[/ATTACH]
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It's either mildew or old stain not much else it could be to look so black like that?RS is light and very unforgiving if the deck is not stripped and cleaned completely of stain or mildew.
When to bleach?
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Mildew under the stripped wood that can only be seen once stained??
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Sanded with 60 grit on the bad areas and some 80
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I have sanded some areas that the old sealer didn't come off on the step faces and some around the railing tops and bottom....
The weird thing is the deck Looks spectacular wearing my uv glasses but looks like dipped in creosote without them....very dark
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This is the stain coming off...
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This is neutralized with no sanding...
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With stripper before cleaning....
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After stripping and brighter...
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The first pic is dry after it was Ox ... Then stained. The last pic is the cleaning while wet showing the front cleaned and the back yet to be done... You can see that we neutralized it in the first photo before staining it...
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So far, I am not super thrilled about my project. Stripped the existing sealer with F-18 then brightened with F-8. It looked pretty good after stripping and neutralizing. I just don't like how the RS is looking a bit blotchy and dark on some of the wood on the first coat? It does not seem normal to me? Any feedback from an RS expert? It is almost like the stripper residue is left behind or something on some of the boards?
Did we not strip this old cedar to a good stainable level?
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The client says that is never supposed to be stained or sealed. It has a deep dark maroon color to it when it is wet. When it is dry it has a grey oxidized color from the sun beating on it all day. What is the best way to clean this hardwood? Do you brighten it after cleaning? I was going to use sodium percarb then Ox after, but I want to make sure. Can you wipe anything on it afterwards that would be good that isn't a stain or sealer?
Will post a picture later when I can get one....
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Truck mounted system. It is basically a hi trek pressure washer with up to 300 degree heat.
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Yes please confirm so we can help SH could be either sodium hypochlorite (bleach) or sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) . No clue what SB is.SH is designated for both Hydroxide and Hypochlorite for some reason. However you cannot purchase SH (bleach in powdered form as it is explosive)( It is sold in powdered form like pool shock which I believe is calcium based..which is different and stable. So when referenced in powdered form it is Hydroxide (caustic soda or lye) In liquid it is chlorine bleach. SB or (SP) is Sodium Percarbonate ( Hydrogen Peroxide) in powdered form. The only thing that confused me is why it is labeled SB. But that is according to another lab geek that I received my information from. I thought SB would be Sodium Bicarbonate, and SC would be sodium carbonate but what do I know...
You would think wiki would have something but it does not clarify...
First X-Jet job done...
in Residential Pressure Washing
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I have both a 12v bandit and an X-jet. I am working on building a set up that has both on board. Anyone know how long a draw tube can be used before the XJET cries to long to be effective? (Just curios) I can see where the extra pressure can be more effective than a 12v rinse of chems on certain sidings etc...
Anyways, I will be utilizing both methods since there seems to be such a wide variety of grime on siding. I know there are some of you been doing it for years and probably settled on a go to because of the time factors involved for efficiency. I just like to hear why on both from both sides of it...
On a fun note- I made up a cool new to me 12v hand truck chem sprayer, that could be used as a XJET companion, deck sprayer,concrete pre-sprayer etc... I found the perfect 15gal and 25 gal tanks that can be strapped to the hand truck for easy use... I am sure others on here done something similar at some point along the way.